merl67
SWCA Member
I just bought one a model 24J-DL 22LR over 20 ga needs a trigger guard (on the way) and some bluing touch up. I really didn't need it, but wanted one as it is a interesting design.
-
Forum Update: We've upgraded the software to improve security, performance, and the overall experience.
👉 Read why we made the change | Support the Forum
Any Love For Savage 24 Shotgun Rifle Combo Guns
- Thread starter merl67
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
I got a old model 24DL in 22/20-3". Very popular gun in these parts. But only old models with solid barrels and frame select. Good small game guns for when squirrels and birds in at same time. 410s are more common. The only ones you see for sale locally are the split barrel models that have a poor rep for accuracy.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2007
- Messages
- 27,660
- Reaction score
- 21,274
They are surprisingly popular (and expensive) relative to other long guns of similar vintage. I think part is the "combo gun" novelty and a lot of people used one when they were kids and want to relive their youth 
.
.They are surprisingly popular (and expensive) relative to other long guns of similar vintage. I think part is the "combo gun" novelty and a lot of people used one when they were kids and want to relive their youth
I think you are right. I've not used mine for years. Had it NIB in 1964. I've seen 24DLs old model tagged at $600 in high condition. I don't remember price in 64 but I'm thinking $59.95 and standard model was $49.95. Prices on old Savage 340s & M99s have taken a big jump in last 20yrs.
I have a 30-30 over 20 ga. I bought it when deer and turkey season overlapped here for more than Thanksgiving Day.
I was surprised by a gaggle that walked through when I was in a deer stand with my rifle.
Hey, that’s a pretty good excuse!
I was surprised by a gaggle that walked through when I was in a deer stand with my rifle.
Hey, that’s a pretty good excuse!
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
About 15 years ago my nephew asked me to help him find one for coyote hunting, close range while calling them in. I located a used .223/12-ga. 3" (full choke) on GunBroker at a decent price, and it has worked quite well for the purpose.
If you like it you should use it and enjoy it.
If you like it you should use it and enjoy it.
Rubone
Member
Mine is a .223 over 20ga, and it is very nice. I liked that combo for a mix into what I like and availability of ammo forever. It is a 24V and was little used in its life. Half a box of .223 and about two boxes of 20ga. It came with a Charles Daly scope it was bought with which is surprisingly clear and bright (Japanese made).
Attachments
Rpg
Member
These things were quite popular in my youth as first guns for kids, largely because they were inexpensive and ‘two for the price of one’ inherent in the rifle and shotgun.
In practice, they were middling rifles and clumsy shotguns.
No one I knew that had one wasn’t eager to move on to a real shotgun after trying to get one into action on flushing birds: cocking the thing then getting it to the shoulder before the bird was in the next County was a task rarely accomplished.
Unless you ground swatted the bird, or shot it out of a tree or off a power line, you came home with an empty bag.
The rifle was inaccurate and clumsy as well, but marginal for stationary game at close range.
In practice, they were middling rifles and clumsy shotguns.
No one I knew that had one wasn’t eager to move on to a real shotgun after trying to get one into action on flushing birds: cocking the thing then getting it to the shoulder before the bird was in the next County was a task rarely accomplished.
Unless you ground swatted the bird, or shot it out of a tree or off a power line, you came home with an empty bag.
The rifle was inaccurate and clumsy as well, but marginal for stationary game at close range.
Rubone
Member
The solid barrel models were very accurate. They were no harder to get into action than any single barrel hammer gun.
The last version Savage made of 223/12, maybe only one. It was a camo job. Was not a very good gun. I was in business then and Savage was in a death spiral. Putting out a lot of junk all around including the last 99s. They had stopped supporting warranty repair stations that they maintained for years.
On the 223/12g they had two major problems. The recievers were to soft of cast metal and headspace problems were common. Also barrel bands were snapping from barrel warp when they were fired. I sold one and replaced it and it came back same way. The distributor took care of refund and since I had a couple other new problem Savages, I just quit selling them period.
The last version Savage made of 223/12, maybe only one. It was a camo job. Was not a very good gun. I was in business then and Savage was in a death spiral. Putting out a lot of junk all around including the last 99s. They had stopped supporting warranty repair stations that they maintained for years.
On the 223/12g they had two major problems. The recievers were to soft of cast metal and headspace problems were common. Also barrel bands were snapping from barrel warp when they were fired. I sold one and replaced it and it came back same way. The distributor took care of refund and since I had a couple other new problem Savages, I just quit selling them period.
One problem with the Savage and other inexpensive over and under or doubles is that the barrels often don't shoot together. I've seen some Savages that do, but other that were terrible regulated. You could zero the rifle barrel, but then the shotgun would pattern a foot or more off at 30 yards.
A friend of mine has one which is a 22/410 with a brown plastic stock and forend. He told me it is from the late 1930's-early 1940's. It is very accurate and patterns well with the 410 at 25 yards. I think this is a perfect barn gun and have often enjoyed shooting it. Would have loved this as a kid.
Absalom
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I think you’re describing the shooter ...
My first long gun was a 1950s vintage 24, this one a .22 WMR/.410 combination. Nothing fancy like the high-comb stock of later years or a scope.
The shotgun caliber’s marginal utility is obvious, so it required a bit more skill, sneaking up on rabbits and such rather than wild action shots. But the rifled barrel could and did take any game appropriate for the bullet out to maybe 100 meters, first for my dad, then me after he passed the gun on to me.
The 24s weren't regulated, that's why the brazed barrel models were popular. Most of them would shoot shotgun pattern to rifle sight good enough. Later separate barrel models were a **** shoot to get a good one.
I think the Tenite stock models were made under Stevens brand. They also had a 410/410 version of the 24.
I think the Tenite stock models were made under Stevens brand. They also had a 410/410 version of the 24.
M E Morrison
Member
I have four of them.
Yep, I like them!
Yep, I like them!
They are surprisingly popular (and expensive) relative to other long guns of similar vintage. I think part is the "combo gun" novelty and a lot of people used one when they were kids and want to relive their youth
EXACTLY right. My first gun was a 410/22 O/U and I'd LOVE to have it back, just for the nostalgia of it. Unfortunately it was stolen in a home burglary in around 1975.
I don’t know about which ones were more accurate. Some have said the brazed barrel ones are, and that’s probably true if they were put together right.
If not, there’s no correcting it. You just have to learn how to shoot the shotgun barrel to be able to hit.
With the separated barrels with the barrel band you can shim the shotgun barrel inside the band to move your pattern a little.
That was a trick I read about a while ago and I’ve used it on mine.
There’s not much movement to be had by doing so but it does move some.
I don’t know the longevity of this fix other to say mine is still working.
There’s no change to the rifle barrel that I’ve noted.
If not, there’s no correcting it. You just have to learn how to shoot the shotgun barrel to be able to hit.
With the separated barrels with the barrel band you can shim the shotgun barrel inside the band to move your pattern a little.
That was a trick I read about a while ago and I’ve used it on mine.
There’s not much movement to be had by doing so but it does move some.
I don’t know the longevity of this fix other to say mine is still working.
There’s no change to the rifle barrel that I’ve noted.
Similar threads
