Any reason NOT to put in lighter rebound spring?

[m657]

After using my "high end smith/competitor tuned" 627 for several years with the work he did on the trigger, it began to exhibit progressively more crepetations and glitches in trigger-return mode. Despite 'cleaning & oiling' finally it got downright cranky and would have definite hesitation that became a predictable failure of trigger return about 30% of the time and which I could aggravate by slow-return with careful trigger pressure as in dry fire exercise or to show someone.

Trying to figure this out and after major break=down & clean~desperately needed for sure~I put in a 11# spring.....replacing the 15 coil shortened one it came with.

That made it WORSE.

Obviously I was working under an erroneous premise.

Pondering overnight, I was struck by finally realizing it was telling me a stronger spring was in order.

I put in the 13# Wilson, and VOILA!!!!

All is right in the 627 world now. In fact, I believe it is better than when I got it. Perhaps practice/familiarity has helped.

The only light primer strikes I ever got in it was the time I forgot to tighten the strain screw properly. And yes, pay attention to the little Torx set-screw that locks it in place. IIRC it's about a T2 or T3...mighty small, had to buy a whole set of the little Torx to get one that fit.

So yes, make sure your rebound spring is not TOO light.

 

[RychenCop]

get the wolf springs kits and play around with them until you find what you're looking for. that's what i did with my 66-1 and it's very smooth and just a bit lighter.

 

[ghitch75]

get the wolf springs kits and play around with them until you find what you're looking for. that's what i did with my 66-1 and it's very smooth and just a bit lighter.

did the same with my 66-2 and it's very smooth

 

[gr7070]

Does one need a special tool to change the rebound spring?

 

[ghitch75]

Does one need a special tool to change the rebound spring?

i use a allen wrench the same size as the spring to compress it...

 

[Bullseye Smith]

I don't use "Ball Bearings" I use "bearings", They look like a shim. If you think about they are a shim . But they also act like a bearing. The big thing is drag, one burr can cause alot of drag, two will double that. The more drag to cut the less power it takes to work it. Trying to get things fitted is sometimes a problem for me, The MIM parts are way easier to get down to a low drag. You don't remove but a very little material to cut drag, no even a .001 of a inch. The stud that the hammer and trigger set on have alot of drag, take your finger and go around the stud base and on the side plate and you will fell the burrs that cause drag. The stud itself is ruff, use the back side of emery cloth and a little polish compound and then feel it , no material removed but the small unseen burr's. But you can feel the differents, then do the inside and the side plate. Then you get into the hammer and trigger, go around the outside edge with a very fine file and then 1500 paper, and you do this by feel and you do it very lite. Take a 1/8" bit and wrap a piece of 1500 with a lite oil on it a do the hole in the hammer and use a 1/16" bit to do the trigger, you do this very lite, just enought to get the burrs out. I going to stop here, but to do a good action job is a slow drawed out thing that 99% don't want to spend the time to do it. I don't know everthing about a Smith & Wesson, I learn something every day. I wish I could shoot better than I can work on them, shot my 32 today and at 25 yards i couldn't get pass 84 points out of a hundred in slow fire.

 

[Brass]

gr7070 - a special tool is not required, but I highly recommend it. It is pretty cheap at Brownells, and it'll pay for itself the first time you use it and NOT launch the rebound spring into oblivion. Or into your face...

 

[scooter123]

Bullseye, take a look at the following link, might set some wheels spinning.

Bearing Search Results | NTN Bearing Corporation of America

Yeah, it's Metric and I'll admit to not having measured the hammer stud. However, S&W has gone to Metric sideplate screws so there is a chance the hammer stud is metric. If so, you'll see why I suspected that you might be equipping some of your guns with roller bearings.

Bearing Search Results | NTN Bearing Corporation of America

Fact is that I've been pondering on trying to build a roller bearing lockwork, roller bearings have gotten really tiny and it wouldn't be too difficult to have a hammer jig ground to install one of these bearings. I also have one application at work that uses loose needles on a 1.5mm pin to provide a roller bearing, BTW, it's a huge PITA to put one of these together but it can be done using grease as a "binder".

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Bullseye, take a look at the following link, might set some wheels spinning.

Bearing Search Results | NTN Bearing Corporation of America

Yeah, it's Metric and I'll admit to not having measured the hammer stud. However, S&W has gone to Metric sideplate screws so there is a chance the hammer stud is metric. If so, you'll see why I suspected that you might be equipping some of your guns with roller bearings.

Bearing Search Results | NTN Bearing Corporation of America

Fact is that I've been pondering on trying to build a roller bearing lockwork, roller bearings have gotten really tiny and it wouldn't be too difficult to have a hammer jig ground to install one of these bearings. I also have one application at work that uses loose needles on a 1.5mm pin to provide a roller bearing, BTW, it's a huge PITA to put one of these together but it can be done using grease as a "binder".

I saved it, and will work on it.

 

[gr7070]

Does one need a special tool to change the rebound spring?

Much thanks y'all! For a couple bucks I'll add it to my next order.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I recall Cylinder and Slide offering a DAO conversion kit for S&W revolvers (L frames, maybe K frames) that used a roller bearing of some kind mated between the hammer and trigger for a smoother and lighter trigger pull, if I remember correctly. Is that kit still around?

 

[nap637]

Even though my 637 and SP101 worked ok with lighter springs I always had this concern hanging over my head about all the things mentioned in this thread and others. So tonight I put the stock springs back in both revolvers and have that reliable feeling back. I've been using those hand grip squeeze exercise things and both guns don't feel so tuff to operate now. Just thought I'd throw in my two cents. Have a good night.

 

[David Sinko]

I would like to learn more about how a 500 can "double."

Dave Sinko

 

[tgiv]

There are 2 reasons for not going too light on the rebound spring.

One is that you may experience a sluggish or failed trigger return. If the trigger doesn't return fully it can completely tie up the lockwork. In addition a sluggish trigger return can slow the firing rate noticeably.
........


Thank You!

 

[Protocall_Design]

I recall Cylinder and Slide offering a DAO conversion kit for S&W revolvers (L frames, maybe K frames) that used a roller bearing of some kind mated between the hammer and trigger for a smoother and lighter trigger pull, if I remember correctly. Is that kit still around?

I don't think they still have that kit. You could look on the website. I installed one of those. The ball bearing on the DA sear just has a flat piece of steel wrapped around for the outer race. After using it for a while, the ends start coming undone and the bearing falls apart. I replaced it with a solid bearing made of hardened tool steel that worked fine. In the end, I didn't feel that the action was much different than without it.

In related news, I have a new development in the works that should be out before the end of the year that some may find interesting.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I would like to learn more about how a 500 can "double."

Dave Sinko

There have been 2 cases that I know of (might be more) where someone has blown their head off when a 500 doubled on them. The way I understand it is like this:

The gun fires with great recoil, pushing the gun back in the hand and the trigger finger is off the trigger, allowing it to reset. As the gun flips up and back, the shooter's hand closes back on the gun, attempting to hang on to it. In the process, the trigger is pulled a second time, and the gun fires again. All this happens in a fraction of a second.

If you, or anyone you know wants to shoot a 500 or 460 for the first time, PLEASE only load one round at a time! Your life or theirs may depend on it.

 

[Mike_Fontenot]

In my 5"629 "Classic" .44mag, I use an 11 lb rebound spring, and a stock mainspring. I shoot single action exclusively, and I want the lightest possible SA trigger. No problems at all.