Any smiths who can do stainless welding? Cosmetic repair on 639 beavertail

Apec

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
Messages
55
Reaction score
58
Long story short, some ******* sold me a 639 without disclosing damage to the beavertail/frame. Not sure what happened, as it looks too unusual to be drop damage considering the rest of the gun is near mint and I can't find damage to the MSH, hammer or slide.

Fortunately, it's nothing structural and purely cosmetic. Is there anyone who could weld a bead over those divots/dents and reblend to the frame?

Pic below
7ciTlLi.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
That looks almost like it could be a casting defect.


Why do people keep saying this? Doesn't anyone realize there have never been any S&W guns that have cast parts?:mad:

And don't argue about MIM parts, they are not castings either!
 
Last edited:
I agree that some careful file work is probably a better solution than welding. Either way you will interrupt the passivation and that area will be more subject to corrosion than normal. I'd probably just carefully dress it to something that resembles the original contour and try to bead blast the area to set up the same surface finish/appearance. Actually, I'd probably just leave it alone - or sell it, if I couldn't stand it. :D
 
Micro Precision Welding in Michigan

They can fill in the lettering on a S&W barrel so that the new caliber can be marked on it after a re chamber from 40 to 10MM Auto

So I am sure they can do what you need.
 
Micro Precision Welding in Michigan

They can fill in the lettering on a S&W barrel so that the new caliber can be marked on it after a re chamber from 40 to 10MM Auto

So I am sure they can do what you need.

Yup.

Micro Precision Welding. Tony South.

A good guy. I had him do a couple of 9mm barrels for me when I reamed them to 357Sig.

I also think our own BMCM (on this Forum) has done some filler welding.

Then again, a re-contour and bead blast would be nearly as good.

John
 
Thanks for the recommendations. I'd also considered reprofiling the beavertail. Will weigh my options a bit more before I commit to one over another.
 
Any idea of charges for minor welding?

I have a EAA stainless steel Witness .45 with a crack running from the safety hole to the rear of the frame.
I think all it would need is a small bead on the very rear of the frame to secure it.

Shipping charges would probably cost more then the repair.
 
That looks almost like it could be a casting defect.


Why do people keep saying this? Doesn't anyone realize there have never been any S&W guns that have cast parts?:mad:

And don't argue about MIM parts, they are not castings either!
At some point before the part was forged, there was a hunk of metal that was cast that was later turned into a blank, then into a forging. To me, it looks like there are small voids and inclusions in the metal. Those kinds of defects are caused when the metal goes from a liquid to a solid state.

Or it got dropped on gravel...
 
Apec,
if this gun was just a recent purchase I'd contact the seller and see about either returning it for a full refund (including shipping) or having him foot the bill for the repair work by sending you what it cost before having the work done. To neglect to inform a buyer about something like that is just dead wrong!

If it were me, I'd just get a refund if at all possible.
 
Hi Apec,

agree with John HL

1) If you want to restore to original condition, I would send it to BMCM. He will weld the stainless and re-countour.

2) Another option would be to have a shorter beaver tail like a M6906. The beaver tail wouldn't have to be shortened that much, since the damage (in the pic) does not appear to be so deep. You would end with a custom frame...


I did it in a project some time ago...

after the fix some blasting and you've got a new frame. You should take the opportunity and blast the slide as well...so, new gun...

just my $0.02

hope this helps

Guzzi
 
Last edited:
At some point before the part was forged, there was a hunk of metal that was cast that was later turned into a blank, then into a forging. To me, it looks like there are small voids and inclusions in the metal. Those kinds of defects are caused when the metal goes from a liquid to a solid state.

Or it got dropped on gravel...

OK, most all steel comes out of the furnace and gets cast into an ingot weighing several tons. After being removed from the mold, it gets heated to working temperature and then goes to the rolling mill to get formed into whatever shape is desired. The part might get machined from a billet or forged and then finish machined.

If that was some sort of manufacturing defect-like a slag inclusion, one would hope the QC inspector would have caught that.
 
I bought 8 12"x36" sheets of high grade German D2 tool steel. I had several of them water jet cut to knife patterns. After grinding one and polishing it there was a small "scratch" that ran vertically. I took it back to 600grit belt and it never went away. I side loaded the blade and it snapped at the line. At that point viewed through my Optivisor you could clearly see it was a small slag inclusion.

That is after the original cast billet had been flattened, rolled and cross rolled repeatedly to get it to 1/8" thickness.

IT HAPPENS
 
I bought 8 12"x36" sheets of high grade German D2 tool steel. I had several of them water jet cut to knife patterns. After grinding one and polishing it there was a small "scratch" that ran vertically. I took it back to 400 grit belt and it never went away. I side loaded the blade and it snapped at the line. At that point viewed through my Optivisor you could clearly see it was a small slag inclusion. I never saw it until I was hand sanding running opposite it with 600 grit

That is after the original cast billet had been flattened, rolled and cross rolled repeatedly to get it to 1/8" thickness.

IT HAPPENS
 
Last edited:
Yes, it does. That's why there are testing and inspection procedures for parts that must not catastrophically fail. And redundant systems. If that is some sort of flaw in the OP's frame, he may discover that as he dresses it, it get bigger! :o
 
Apec,
I also recommend Tony South at MicroPrecision Welding in Mattawan, Michigan. He laser welded a front sight for me. He worked on it for about an hour. When he handed the revolver back the barrel was barely warm to the touch. He is a gun guy. If he does the work you will have to find somebody to reprofile the beaver tail. Good luck!

1chessiefan
 
Back
Top