Any suggestions on how to make Shield factory sight removal easier?

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Just put a set of XS F8 NTS on my new 3" Shield plus 2.0 and after bending two new brass punches with zero progress I resorted to using a spent 223 case and a small chisel inside of the 223 case and a 2lb brass hammer to finally get both sights off.
I did soak both sights submerged in Kroil over night but it had no affect. I have read about letting you slide sit in your freezer over night to try to shrink the the metal some but didn't try that yet.

I do have and use a massive vice attached to my workbench in my basement that is braced against my concreate basement wall so there is essentially zero give when I hit the sight.

I plan on putting the same sights on my 4" Shield Plus when they arrive in a few days and was wondering if anyone knew of any way to make removing Shield factory sights easier especially the rear sight and yes I did remove the set screw.
 
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Given my experience swapping Shield sights with my MGW Pro sight tool (it worked, but I applied a lot of torque), I wouldn't even try it with a hammer and punch.
 
Just put a set of XS F8 NTS on my new 3" Shield plus 2.0 and after bending two new brass punches with zero progress I resorted to using a spent 223 case and a small chisel inside of the 223 case and a 2lb brass hammer to finally get both sights off.
I did soak both sights submerged in Kroil over night but it had no affect. I have read about letting you slide sit in your freezer over night to try to shrink the the metal some but didn't try that yet.

I do have and use a massive vice attached to my workbench in my basement that is braced against my concreate basement wall so there is essentially zero give when I hit the sight.

I plan on putting the same sights on my 4" Shield Plus when they arrive in a few days and was wondering if anyone knew of any way to make removing Shield factory sights easier especially the rear sight and yes I did remove the set screw.
Sounds like you need a sight pusher.
 
I have a sight pusher too, but as Beju implied above, the amount of torque needed to move some sights can be scary. The last thing you want to do is damage the slide. I believe there is some advantage to using impact force (punch and hammer) – maybe someone can explain the physics.

If my sight pusher doesn’t move the sight fairly easily, my go-to tool is an old 8” modified brass punch, with the slide clamped securely in a sturdy vise. I’ve ground the tip flat, with a flat bevel on the bottom, giving about 3/8 of an inch of contact surface with the sight.

I’ve been able to move some stubborn Shield, Shield Plus and 2.0 sights with it. I believe the contact surface area is more important that the weight of the hammer.

Sight a.jpgSight b.jpgSight c.jpg
 
Invest in a sight pusher. You can get one for $100 or less. It pays for itself and will make removing, replacing, and adjusting your sights easier and less time consuming. I've changed out the sights on several M&P Shields and my one M&P 2.0 Compact. I've also have APEX triggers on some of my M&P's including my 2.0, and I had to remove the rear sights to install all the trigger components.

This is what I use. Amazon has knockoffs that are around ~$60.
1754177686700.jpeg
 
After a loud pop, they come right out with a drill press.

(My gunsmith does not charge for sight removal, but only for installing new sights which is a more time-consuming process.)
 
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Yep, when using a sight pusher, the first couple of times you hear THAT POP, things really pucker up. Ultimately that pop means that progress is finally being made. Good soak overnight in Kroil or other effective penetrant. Make sure you are applying the force to the dovetailed foot of the sight NOT to the body of the sight. (I had a few slides brought in with the sights still firmly attached but the sight blade was broken off or severely bent.)
 
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