Is zeroing necessary after barrel replacement on M63-4?

Mxylplyk

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S&W just returned my M63-4. I sent it in because there was a notch in the crown at the 1 o'clock position. They replaced the entire barrel! I thought they'd just recrown it. Total turnaround time was less than 6 weeks. Impressive. This is a J-Frame 22LR revolver with a 5-inch barrel. I sent it in because the groupings weren't as consistent as I'd like and the notch bothered me every time I looked at it. Do you think I need to re-sight the revolver and go through the trial and error of using different 22LR brands? FWIW, the old barrel used to love Remington Thunderbolts. Go figure. Thanks in advance.
 
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You know the answer ...
Like the Swamp People say in Louisiana ...
Choot It ... Mxylplyk ... Choot It !
It may still like Remington ThunderBolts ... test them first !
Gary
 
gwpercle is spot-on: I know the answer. So much for wishful thinking. I hope to get to the range on Wednesday weather permitting. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks to all that replied.
 
I finally got to the range today. All y'all were correct: zeroing in was ABSOLUTELY necessary. I shot iron sites off sand-bag rests at 25 yards. I have 80 year-old eyes, but the accuracy remains around 2 inches spread which I think is pretty good.
The elevation was initially high about 4 inches with windage about 2 inches too far to the left. Eventually I was able to zero it in, but I just about reached the limits of the elevation.
This new barrel HATES Remington Thunderbirds but is in love with CCI Mini-Mag High Velocity 40 gr ammo. The old barrel liked Mini-Mags but lusted after the Thunderbirds. The new barrel was not too happy with Standard Velocity ammo, which surprised me. Stingers were reasonable (maybe 3 inches spread) and as expected shot a bit low. Thanks to all for your input. I plan to do more range work with this revolver. To me it is an excellent example of a scaled down version of an M17 and makes a great trail gun: not to heavy but accurate enough.
 

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