Anybody ever put an N Frame barrel on an L Frame?

[357larry]

Has anybody ever tried to put an N Frame barrel on an L Frame? I had some parts lying around for a project that I decided against. I have a brand new-never been on a gun 5 inch barrel for a model 27. I also have a new still in the factory wrap rear sight for a model 27. Just from eyeballing things, it looks like the barrel might match up with the top of the frame once it is turned down to match the threads. The model 27 rear sight tang is long enough to just about reach the front end of the frame. Was wondering if it was possible to make these fit onto a 586 and not have it look silly.

Thanks in advance for any advise/comments.

 

[Alk8944]

Due to differences in center-to-center spacing between the bore and center pin bores, barrels cannot be changed between frame sizes.

 

[k22fan]

A competitor at our matches competed a couple times with an L frame Model 686 that he had installed a 5" Model 27 barrel on. Unfortunately, he did not let me handle it and would not discuss his project. Obviously, for the reason ALK8944 posted, he must have removed metal from the top of slot the extractor rod closes into. I presumed that he installed a yoke ball bearing lock. It might be hard to find a gunsmith that wants the head ache but it can be done.

The front of a 586 frame is shaped to blend with the full lug. Full lugs do not extend down as low as an the older style of extractor rod shrouds. Compounding that, the Model 27 extractor rod shroud would extend down lower than a 586 extractor rod shroud would have if such a 586 barrel had ever been built. Making every thing look right could be a problem.

 

[Hondo44]

That sounds like an intriguing project; the tapered barrel of the 27 on an L frame. I did something similar with a 586: 5 shot 44 spl cyl and 4" N frame 44 SPL tapered barrel.

The center line of the barrel matching the ctr line of the chambers of course is no problem.

As posted above, the spacing difference of extractor CL and Barrel CL on N vs. L frame is the issue, albeit a minor one.

L frame = .500", N frame = .550", a difference of .050" (for reference 1/16" = .063").



Couldn't find completed project photos, but here's a couple:

.357 Mtn. Gun barrel not used, couldn't get rebored to .44. Mod 696 5 shot cyl I did use:

.44 Spl target barrel I did use, rethreaded the barrel, milled upper inside of shroud, and removed metal by hand from outside bottom of shroud (lots of extra metal not needed there), to meld well with the front of the L frame:

The front locking bolt was welded up, redrilled .050" higher in the shroud, and never looked back. Made a fine shooter but not for me anymore, gave to my 1st born.


Compare the extractor shrouds on your Mod 27 barrel and your L frame barrel. Visualize slight metal to be removed.

 

[357larry]

Thank you gentlemen for your replies. I figured it could be done but would require a lot of work. I'm not sure if the final outcome would be worth the expense and trouble to me. Might be a good looking gun though. I'm really not a fan of the full underlug barrels of the 586/686.

Thanks again.

 

[Hondo44]

It's not really that much work. The results will be worth it!

Also, there's two other options:

1. Here's how my son did his 686 with 4" slender L frame Mtn Gun barrel. He used my Mtn gun barrel (that I couldn't rebore to .44 shown in my post #4 above) replacing the full lug barrel. See post #1 here:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...eight-barrel-l-frame-357-a.html#post136329613

For a 586, you can get the SS Mtn Gun barrel blued.

2. You can use a Model 19 shrouded barrel by welding up the threaded end, won't take much, turn down to the L frame barrel diameter, and re-thread. On this barrel, you may need to relieve the bottom of the extractor cut out a bit, and not have to take any off the bottom of the shroud. But by sharpening the back end of the front lock pin, to align with the cyl ctr pin, and not have to relocate it.


Here's a good frame wrench: MGW Revolver Action Frame Wrench Insert S&W L Frame

 

[Shark Bait]

The tough part is finding a .357 MG barrel.

 

[Hondo44]

The tough part is finding a .357 MG barrel.

I advertised on this forum and a member sold it to me.

 

[Hondo44]

Barrel Outer Diameters at Threads

Frame Size: Measurement (in.):
J - 0.500
K - 0.540
L - 0.562
N - 0.670
(Thread pitch is 36 TPI for all of these barrels.)

 

[Farmer17]

It's not really that much work. The results will be worth it!

Also, there's two other options:

1. Here's how my son did his 686 with 4" slender L frame Mtn Gun barrel. He used my Mtn gun barrel (that I couldn't rebore to .44 shown in my post #4 above) replacing the full lug barrel. See post #1 here:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...eight-barrel-l-frame-357-a.html#post136329613

For a 586, you can get the SS Mtn Gun barrel blued.

2. You can use a Model 19 shrouded barrel by welding up the threaded end, won't take much, turn down to the L frame barrel diameter, and re-thread. On this barrel, you may need to relieve the bottom of the extractor cut out a bit, and not have to take any off the bottom of the shroud. But by sharpening the back end of the front lock pin, to align with the cyl ctr pin, and not have to relocate it.


Here's a good frame wrench: MGW Revolver Action Frame Wrench Insert S&W L Frame

Very cool, with all the variations of revolvers I wish Smith would have made a 586 with a regular barrel.

 

[Hondo44]

This one is the 45 ACP Mtn Gun barrel with rib removed and a half moon front sight replacing target ramp site to match this 1917, and then blued.

Mushroom knob replaced with pre war 'barrel' style knob, used on pre war shrouded extractor rod:

 

[steelslaver]

A milling machine and a couple radius cutters could do a complete re profile of a heavy full lug barrel to MNT gun. Plus "some" finish work.

I do find it interesting that the center pin is no big problem. I had kind of thought it would be. But had considered the possibility of making an offset pin.

I have a model 10 4" Python barrel project in the works. I seriously considered drilling and installing a S&W front lock in the Python shroud. But, getting a long enough tools to make a the hole perfect and square bottomed plus drilling the pin hole to hold it in place perfectly without breaking the bit made me decide to go with a yoke ball style lock. Getting the lug style to come out perfect had to many problems to be worth it.

The only L frames I own are a 696, a 396 and a 296. If the forcing cone ever split on the 696 it is nice to know I could rework one of the stainless 629 barrels I have if I had to. But, then the 696 mostly just lays in a drawer now.

 

[Hondo44]

The only L frames I own are a 696, a 396 and a 296. If the forcing cone ever split on the 696 it is nice to know I could rework one of the stainless 629 barrels I have if I had to. But, then the 696 mostly just lays in a drawer now.

Now's the time to scrounge up a Mod 629 Mtn Gun 4" barrel.