Getting scratches and dings out is pretty easy, though it can take some time depending on how deep the damage goes. In this instance I removed what was left of the finish and stain with a mix of paint stripper and a generic version of EasyOff oven cleaner. I then rinsed it thoroughly with dish soap (Dawn works fine for that) to remove the chemicals.
Once I had it to bare wood I steamed out most of the dimples by getting the stock well and truly saturated with water, stuffing it inside an old wet sock, and working it over for thirty minutes or so with a steam iron, which worked wonders for raising dings and depressions, but also raised a kind of coarse wood-fuzz on the surface.
I let it dry two or three days before I went after that with 00 steel wool. Gradually I worked down to 0000, then wiped the sawdust and steel shavings off with a damp rag. I think I wiped it once or twice a day for two more days, which got it pretty well clean without soaking the wood enough for a repeat of the fuzz effect.
Once it was dry and mostly uniform (I left a couple of spots on for character, including that compression band visible on the left side of the stock) I hit it with a mix of B-C walnut stain thickened with acrylic black. Sort of a cheating method I figure out doing an '03 Springfield stock a while back. I think I put four or five coats on and let it set someplace cool and dry for a few days.
When the stain set I sealed it using B-C's linseed oil (you can probably guess I got the B-C stock care kit) and laid on a couple of coats per their instructions. I let that set, then buffed out the gloss with fine-grain steel wool until I got that satin look.
***
As for the durability of cold blueing, it seems to vary; in fact, I've got a Model '97 Winchester I finished a few years back that's proven more or less bombproof, but it's been the exception.
In my experience Blue Wonder seems to be less affected by humidity than B-C, but it also calls for the application of heat before the solution goes on (B-C doesn't, but I heat the metal beforehand anyway). Usually I put on several layers and 'bake' them on with a heat gun before I apply setting solution. As an interesting aside, fine steel wool makes a better applicator than those oversized Q-tips B-C includes in their kit.
Overall I'd say any kind of do-it-yourself or cold-blue kit can be a viable option if you've got a favorite gun you want to keep from rusting away, but if you're after a solution that's more resilient and aesthetically uniform under scrutiny, your best bet is saving up and having it professionally dipped.
However - of the two products I believe Blue Wonder of be superior in most regards, and worth the higher price tag in the name of saving yourself the frustrations of B-C's temperamental characteristics. As a side note, you'll need either a heat gun or a propane torch for Blue Wonder, but I believe those can be had reasonably. I think mine was $20 and it's held up just fine.
I'll also say that, whatever negatives or limitations I associate with the B-C cold blue kits, their stock finishing kit is aces.
**I'm not a gunsmith. Just my experience and/or opinion.**
