Apex and M&P Comp Carry

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All,
I have an M&P Comp Carry Polymer framed pistol.
I simply don’t know what it is.. Any M&P that I’ve owned has just always shot well for me.. easy, great shooter, reliable..

I emailed Apex, I’m looking at the forward flat trigger action/duty kit for the pistol, it’s my backup EDC.

They have not certified the polymer framed Comp’d Carry yet.
Has anyone tried their kit in this particular pistol?
 
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All,
I have an M&P Comp Carry Polymer framed pistol.
I simply don’t know what it is.. Any M&P that I’ve owned has just always shot well for me.. easy, great shooter, reliable..

I emailed Apex, I’m looking at the forward flat trigger action/duty kit for the pistol, it’s my backup EDC.

They have not certified the polymer framed Comp’d Carry yet.
Has anyone tried their kit in this particular pistol?

Is there something wrong with your carry comp?
 
Is there something wrong with your carry comp?

Nope.
I like the Apex forward trigger kit, its ability to reduce take up, and give a cleaner break and reset.
I’ve used their kits in the past in M&P pistols…
I have XXL sized hands, I like the trigger being moved forward vs. the current break location, and I prefer flat triggers on striker fired pistols.
 
I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work in the Carry Comp Compact, but you'd have diminishing returns vs a basic M&P.

As a PC gun, it should already have a different sear and striker block (though one guy got the regular sharper edge striker block in his, and I've got the rounded profile striker block in my regular 2.0C) that are pretty similar to the Apex in profile.
 
Heard Beju.
I honestly didn’t look at the sear plunger very carefully on it.
As mentioned, primary reason is less pre-travel, flat trigger, and moving the break point forward in the trigger guard.
 
Heard Beju.
I honestly didn’t look at the sear plunger very carefully on it.
As mentioned, primary reason is less pre-travel, flat trigger, and moving the break point forward in the trigger guard.

It's fine to have preferences, especially if they don't compromise safety or reliability.

In your case, most of what you want will probably be coming from the forward set sear actuator and the trigger.
 
It's fine to have preferences, especially if they don't compromise safety or reliability.

In your case, most of what you want will probably be coming from the forward set sear actuator and the trigger.

Agree on safety and reliability. I won’t consider an EDC until I get 500 round trouble free mark.
If I have a pistol that met this, and change anything… I’ll get another 250 down range before I put it back in the rotation.

Another worth mentioning, trigger weight. I prefer my carry guns with a 3.5 to 4.0# trigger.

Aside from the shape and forward engagement, there’s weight.
And with the multiple springs available in the kit, I can custom tune it where I want it to be.

Frankly.. and I don’t mean to be rude to anyone here.
I wasn’t really looking to justify WHAT I wanted to do, it seems that’s all I’ve done.

I was really looking to see if anyone put one of these kits in this particular pistol…to see if it worked.
 
As a PC gun, it should already have a different sear and striker block (though one guy got the regular sharper edge striker block in his, and I've got the rounded profile striker block in my regular 2.0C) that are pretty similar to the Apex in profile.

I'm not sure PC's are still coming with the beveled striker blocks, at least in the Carry Comp models. My Shield Plus Carry Comp did not, it came with the square edged block. At least two other Shield Plus CC owners and one Compact CC owner have said theirs also came with the square edged block.

To dajogejr, which striker block did your Compact CC come with?

As mentioned in another thread, I could tell the difference and S&W sent me two of the beveled blocks when I complained.

I have a full-size polymer frame Carry Comp (Davidson Exclusive, SKU 14415) on order and I'm anxious to see what it will come with. I should get it in the next couple of days.
 

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Hey Mike,
I keep meaning to slide off the top and see what the plunger looks like… I just keep forgetting.
Having several M&Ps, I’m well versed on stock vs. what Apex puts out.
I’ll get a pic ASAP.
 
The striker block alone made a huge difference in my 1.0. My full size M&P came with the "beveled" striker block. I bought a 5" Ported CORE kit for it and the CORE slide had the "rounded" one.

The Apex kit comes with their "ultimate striker block" so you'll have a good one regardless of what's in it now.

CORE Slide on right

IMG_0004_zpsswp1q1x0.jpg
 
Coming back around here. I’m going to install the trigger and springs today later on, I’ll have before and after results as well.
Here’s what I can say, I’m leaving the plunger and plunger spring alone. In being 100% frank, the plunger shape/contour looks even more rounded and smooth than the plunger in the Apex kit. I am going to replace the sear, sear spring and sear engagement hardware. While I’m not going to break out the micrometer, I will share total trigger travel before the install and after. I’ll also share stock trigger weight and where it settles in after the kit install. I’m aiming for 3.5 to 4# trigger weight.
 
I picked up the full-size polymer Carry Comp I mentioned in post #9. It did come with a beveled striker block like I expected in a Performance Center gun. I did a little polishing - feed ramp, chamber, striker block channel, crown of striker block, and top of trigger bar. After cleaning, lubing and re-assembly, I'm very happy with the smoothness of the trigger.
 

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Finally got done. I gotta be honest.. Apex was way off on their trigger weight chart.
I did end up using their striker block, sear, spring..
I barely got it under 4lbs. Which is fine, it was the range I was looking for.
Less take up, less overtravel. Number 1 goals accomplished.
I like a flat trigger, accomplished.
But I have to be honest again, with all new Apex parts, trigger break and reset weren’t as big a difference as they’ve been in previous M&Ps, which… leads to what an earlier poster said, the performance center 2.0 parts are pretty damn good.

First pic, stock, first black mark is at rest, 2nd is take up to wall, 3rd is overtravel.

Some pics
 

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If you follow the guide chart you can end up with a lighter than 4lb trigger pull and a shorter reset and over travel .

Chart link below is typically NOT way off on there chart but installer might be .
https://www.apextactical.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/polymer-frame-mp-2.0.jpg

I also find that some folks do not get as reliable a trigger pull feed back using those that style trigger pull guage . I have no problem getting a 3.4 to 3.6 lb trigger pull with mine but I did end up with a upper 2lb pull weight with the first kit tried and had to swap springs to make a bit heavier for my wife . That was years ago on my wifes early production M&P CORE . I don't even bother with take up measurement as You should learn to control how far you let off on the trigger for target shooting but the pull to break and reset are well shorter and crisper .

You may find with rounds fired , maybe 400 hundred plus or minus a few and the trigger pull will be lighter still .
Oh I never changed the sear spring , stocks only for that . I also remove the points on the trigger bar were it contacts the striker block .
 
Hardluk, I’m glad you posted.
I can’t see the chart you posted (blocked) but I went off the Apex chart, which I’m sure were looking at the same.
I do have the 10 degree striker.

First things first, I used the stock safety plunger and spring.
Used the unpainted return, and orange sear spring.

I expected it to be in the 3.5 to 4lb range.
It was WAY off. It jumped up to nearly 6lbs.
So I disassembled everything, went back step by step, made sure all the channels were clean, absolutely no binding on the trigger bar in the trigger, everything was perfect. Reassembled, same.

So I went all in, just to see what happened.
Replaced safety plunger from stock to Apex, including spring.
Went to factory trigger return spring, and orange sear spring.
What I didn’t try is the factory sear and sear actuator cam, I believe you need to use the Apex sear and actuator cam in unison to give you the forward trigger.. but I could be wrong there.

Based on the chart from Apex, this should have given me roughly a 2.75 lb trigger, end result is a ounce or so less than 4.

I know my gauge is very, very close if not dead on.
If I attach a 5lb weight, it’s correct. If I attach a 2.5lb weight, it’s correct.

I take several pulls and average them out. I also mark the trigger where I’m pulling from as it makes a bigger difference in striker fired than it does hammer fired….leverage.

Before I put this one back in my EDC rotation, I’ll get 200 to 300 rounds down range to make sure. Since I replaced the plunger and spring, I want to be 100% certain my DPP retained zero as well.
I’ll measure trigger again after some range time. I’m at my end goal, but frankly I’m surprised it’s not even close to the Apex charts, they’ve always been much closer in the past.

I think I can post this pic from Apex, most likely the same you tried to post a URL too
 

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I still use the stock striker and spring, apex striker block and spring and the stock trigger reset spring and have had a mid 3lb pull or a fuzz less every time . But I do round over the trigger bars corners a bit and pilsh well .
 
I traded mine for the new CSX E series 3.6 inch barrel .... so much better handgun ... 400 rounds now and nary a single failure of any type..accurate as hell and probably the best stock trigger of any handgun S&W has produced..that's my 2 cents worth......
 

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