Apex kit for 9mm core

Register to hide this ad
It's not hard to do, I did it. Just remember one thing. You do not have to remove the rear sights on the Core model to replace the USB. It is under the cover for the optical sight. There is a small metal cover with a spring underneath so be careful you don't lose it, the USB is there.
 
You'll need a T6 Torx bit for the sear block cover. (it's actually a T5 but I stripped out the T5 and so did a lot of others, you can tap the T6 into the screw to remove and reinstall it)
 
Thanks! Should I lubricate it with anything while I have it taken apart?
 
Surprised you'd want to change the stock trigger. I love mine, although it is slightly modified.

I polished the striker block and spring so there is pretty much no graininess. I absolutely love the break in the trigger. The take up is really the only thing that I think could be a lot better. I may decide to get an Apex trigger, only for the reduced take up.

I have the DCAEK in my 9c but still prefer my CORE trigger.

As far as lubing the parts, I'd keep the striker block dry or just a tiny dab. The rest, just use a little.
 
Thanks for the input, I have read so many complaints on the trigger that I had just planned on doing it. Is the core trigger that much better than the standard triggers?

Do you just use regular gun oil on the inside of the gun or something else? are all brands the same when it comes to gun oil?


JColumbus said:
Surprised you'd want to change the stock trigger. I love mine, although it is slightly modified.

I polished the striker block and spring so there is pretty much no graininess. I absolutely love the break in the trigger. The take up is really the only thing that I think could be a lot better. I may decide to get an Apex trigger, only for the reduced take up.

I have the DCAEK in my 9c but still prefer my CORE trigger.

As far as lubing the parts, I'd keep the striker block dry or just a tiny dab. The rest, just use a little.
Click to expand...
 
DanTana said:
It's not hard to do, I did it. Just remember one thing. You do not have to remove the rear sights on the Core model to replace the USB. It is under the cover for the optical sight. There is a small metal cover with a spring underneath so be careful you don't lose it, the USB is there.
Click to expand...

Sweet. Did not know that...
 
Just remove the two screws holding down the optical sight cover and you will see a metal cap with a very small screw holding down one side.
 
There are kits without the trigger for $30 less. Does it make a difference?
 
shipwreck2 said:
Thanks for the input, I have read so many complaints on the trigger that I had just planned on doing it. Is the core trigger that much better than the standard triggers?

Do you just use regular gun oil on the inside of the gun or something else? are all brands the same when it comes to gun oil?
Click to expand...

Whether you like the trigger depends on whether you come from a 1911 background. As an old revolver shooter, I like it just fine stock.

Unlike a 1911, an M&P needs to run nearly dry: read your S&W manual. Slopping oil around inside the frame and striker area will make gunk and generate malfunctions. I use a touch of action lube wherever metal rubs metal. In our summer heat, oil runs off. Anything from action grease to transmission fluid will work as a lubricant, just put it sparingly where it belongs, and don't spray lube into the pistol.
 
Last edited:
Replacing the trigger was probably one of the hardest parts of the job. You have to knock the pin out of the old trigger to remove the trigger bar. Then knock the pin into the new trigger with the trigger bar. I polished up the trigger bar before I put it back in. I didn't like the feel of the hinged trigger. It just felt strange. I like the solid feeling of the aluminum trigger in mine.
 
I put the apex comp kit in both my 40 and core 9. the 40 is great but my core is not resetting the trigger.if you just rack and dryfire its great but hold the trigger and rack the trigger will not return half the time. use ammo and fire it it always will not reset. holding the frame side by side with the frame of the 40 the only thing i see diferent is the trigger bar flexes to the right and rubs the slide lock. thoughts?
 
If I were you I'd take it back apart and start over again. You must of missed something, check everything again. All it takes is one part crooked or not seated correctly to cause this to happen. I remember when I first did my 1911 trigger I didn't fire at first. Took it back apart and reassembled it and everything worked fine. You must of put most of it in correctly for it to fire, but I'd just start over again to be sure. One part that was also tricky for me at first was the trigger bar, seating in correctly into the sear housing took me a couple tries. Check these out and see if it helps you. Good Luck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGc3XobKiAI

http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
 
Last edited:
thanks but i have had it apart more times than i can remember. for some reason it is not liking the core i am starting to work my way backwards and remove the new parts and it gets a little better. going to try swaping all the old parts back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
  • Locked
***SOLD*** NEW Apex Tactical M&P Shield Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Trigger Kit RED
Replies
0
Views
560
Simplereloader
S
S
  • Locked
**SOLD**Apex Tactical Specialties, Red Action Trigger Assembly Enhancement Kit Shield
Replies
1
Views
342
SmithNut
S
C
I think i have a M&P addiction- Need to stop !!!
Replies
19
Views
967
ctr1970
C
R
  • Locked
M&P 2.0 9mm and 45ACP loaded with extras
Replies
2
Views
658
txice
T
C
  • Locked
HELP ME KEEP MY Glock-Complete Slide- M&P 2.0 / 4.25 in 9mm w/ Trijicon XR's and Apex
Replies
0
Views
353
ctr1970
C

Latest posts

Back
Top