APEX Shield Carry Kit - Which parts should I install?

ColoradoDave

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Hello,

I love my new M&P Shield 9mm but am not all that impressed with the trigger. I have fired a lot of rounds down range but it still does not come close to my MP40 with APEX DCAEK installed.

When I installed the APEX DCAEK into my MP40, I installed the Fully Machined Sear with the Increased Rate Sear Spring and the Ultimate Striker Block kit. However, I did not install the Trigger Return Spring as I heard this increases the trigger pull weight. I could not be happier with the outcome!

I now own the APEX Shield Carry Kit and am wondering if I need to install the entire kit or if I should leave the factory trigger springs as they are? Did anyone here install the entire kit including the Shield Spring Kit? Or did you only install the Apex Fully Machined Sear and the Ultimate Striker Block Kit?

Thanks for any assistance!

Dave.
 
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Thanks for the replies!

The reason I didn't install the Trigger Return Spring on my MP40 is because I was told it would actually increase the trigger pull weight.

Do you know what the Shield Spring Kit does to the trigger of the M&P Shield?

Thanks again,

Dave.
 
That is one of the most excrutiating videos I've ever watched on youtube. I gave up about 3 minutes in.

I bought a USB to install in the Shield, as I went through a phase having trouble with the reset. After speaking with my lawyer, I decided to leave it as is and just practice with it more.

I do have the Apex kit installed on my FS and love it, but decided not to mess with the trigger on my carry pistol.

Tracy
 
Hey again,

So from what I can tell, installing the Apex Shield Trigger Return Spring sets the pull weight to around 5.5 pounds. But if I were to leave the original S&W Trigger Return Spring installed, the pull weight would be around 4.5 pounds.

Does that seem accurate?

Thanks,

Dave.
 
That is one of the most excrutiating videos I've ever watched on youtube. I gave up about 3 minutes in.

I lost it at the 58 sec. count. You would think thhese people would be set up and get to the point.

Myself. I have found out leaving everything as is and just breaking the weapon in shooting,works best for me. I have yet to put a kit in any of my 9 M&P handguns after having them well broken in.
 
Hello,

I love my new M&P Shield 9mm but am not all that impressed with the trigger. I have fired a lot of rounds down range but it still does not come close to my MP40 with APEX DCAEK installed.

When I installed the APEX DCAEK into my MP40, I installed the Fully Machined Sear with the Increased Rate Sear Spring and the Ultimate Striker Block kit. However, I did not install the Trigger Return Spring as I heard this increases the trigger pull weight. I could not be happier with the outcome!

I now own the APEX Shield Carry Kit and am wondering if I need to install the entire kit or if I should leave the factory trigger springs as they are? Did anyone here install the entire kit including the Shield Spring Kit? Or did you only install the Apex Fully Machined Sear and the Ultimate Striker Block Kit?

Thanks for any assistance!

Dave.

I cannot give any assistance as I would not install it at all. I actually trust the factory engineers to have "gotten it right," so I do not install aftermarket spring kits and such, preferring reliability over trigger pull weight or more audible or tactile reset.

I know you indicated you do not want a lighter trigger pull weight - at least that is what I think you meant from your post. Lighter trigger pull weight can affect reliability, which does not make sense in a self-defense pistol.

Audible or tactile reset is not important to me as I do not short-stroke or "ride the reset" in the operation of any pistol. I think that learning to shoot one way for the range and one way for an "encounter" is a bad idea, and I definitely would not try to short-stroke or "ride the reset" during a self-defense scenario. The miniscule amount of one second it might save is not worth the cost of the possibility of having the action lock up requiring a reset by running the slide.

Please note the following from page 19 of the Shield Owner's Manual:

"After firing you must allow the trigger to move forward fully
before you can fire another shot. Failure to do so will prevent
the lockwork from fully cycling and will prevent your being
able to fire the next shot."
 
My Shield came from the factory with a 7-3/4# trigger. I shot a couple of hundred rounds along with over a thousand dry fires. It never changed the pull weight. I installed ONLY the Apex Hard Sear and it dropped immediately to 5-3/4#. There is a tiny bit of grittyness in the USB but it can remain, and seems to get better over time. Just the Apex sear made a huge difference in my overly heavy stock trigger. YMMV.
 
After the general opinion of this and other forum members, I decided to install the entire kit and couldn't be happier with the results!

No more grittiness and a safe 5.5 pound carry trigger.

Thanks for all the input!
 
I just replaced a non-behaving Kimber Solo with a 9mm Shield. So far I am, but more so the wife, is happy with the performance of the Shield. 300 rounds in 1 week and no failures. (F,F,F). Thats more than I shot through the Solo since December, of course Kimber has had it in their posession more than I have. Only issue is the trigger, it really sux. Gritty, 8 lbs. No, it's not a MA compliant gun. It shoots great groups from a rest, however, but its not made to shoot from a rest. The trigger pull makes it nearly impossibe for the wife, and me sometimes, to stay in the black. It is far from my 14-2. I am in the process of polishing parts and installing an Apex kit. Question is, which springs do I use. The factory hammer and sear springs are much smoother and lighter than the Apex springs. The Apex trigger spring is a full 1 lb heavier than the factory spring, both extended 1/4 in. I did not know if the factory springs would make the trigger too light for a DC gun.

Bill,

BTW I made a tool, from Nylon 101 round rod and steel,to remove the rear sight . I have photos if anyone is interested. 3 whacks with a 3 lb shop hammer and it came out undamaged. I have removed literally hundreds of sights, some of them extremely tight but I "Aint never seen nothing like this'un in all my git togethers"
 
Before installing the Apex kit in my Shield, I contacted Jon Shadwick at Apex. He stated the Duty/Carry kit will yield a 5 to 5.5 pound trigger pull. This kit has slightly heavier weight springs for the trigger spring and the sear spring. He said if you keep the stock springs, and don't use their springs, the pull would drop to 4 to 4.5 pounds pull.

So it ends up where you want the trigger pull to be at. Forget all the posts that advise you will have legal problems with a modified trigger. If you intend to shoot someone, and you do shoot them, it would not matter if you had a one ounce trigger pull. You pointed the gun and pulled the trigger. You had intent to shoot, even if you only thought about it for a split second. You thought about, decided to shoot, and carried out your intensions. It would be up to the prosecutor to determine what the charges should be, if any, depending on the shooting circumstances and evidence. Should charges be filed against you, then a judge and or jury would make the decision, on you fate .

However if you accidentally discharge your firearm, then the trigger modifications could have a bearing on your legal repercussions. Did the modifications make the gun more likely to discharge or more dangerous? Or was it improper gun handling that caused the discharge? Intent versus accidental discharge, a big difference.

Bob
 
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I've got to admit I'm hesitant to make any trigger mods to my Shield, but not to my nightstand M&P 40. The difference? One would be used defending myself and my family in our home. The other would be used for self defense in a location away from home.

I can see myself being on firmer ground answering questions from the witness stand about why I modified the trigger on my home defense pistol than answering questions about why I felt the need to carry a pistol in public with a "modified" trigger, that I used to shoot someone. I don't think answers about "grittiness" and reset would help me much.

What do you think?
 
I just replaced a non-behaving Kimber Solo with a 9mm Shield. So far I am, but more so the wife, is happy with the performance of the Shield. 300 rounds in 1 week and no failures. (F,F,F). Thats more than I shot through the Solo since December, of course Kimber has had it in their posession more than I have. Only issue is the trigger, it really sux. Gritty, 8 lbs. No, it's not a MA compliant gun. It shoots great groups from a rest, however, but its not made to shoot from a rest. The trigger pull makes it nearly impossibe for the wife, and me sometimes, to stay in the black. It is far from my 14-2. I am in the process of polishing parts and installing an Apex kit. Question is, which springs do I use. The factory hammer and sear springs are much smoother and lighter than the Apex springs. The Apex trigger spring is a full 1 lb heavier than the factory spring, both extended 1/4 in. I did not know if the factory springs would make the trigger too light for a DC gun.

Bill,

BTW I made a tool, from Nylon 101 round rod and steel,to remove the rear sight . I have photos if anyone is interested. 3 whacks with a 3 lb shop hammer and it came out undamaged. I have removed literally hundreds of sights, some of them extremely tight but I "Aint never seen nothing like this'un in all my git togethers"
Sir Fig, I, for one, would like to see the pictures of the tool.
 
Sir Fig, I'd love to see the pic's of your sight tools. I'm having a heck of a time w/ mine and afraid of breaking it.
Thanks....Bruce
 
I've got to admit I'm hesitant to make any trigger mods to my Shield, but not to my nightstand M&P 40. The difference? One would be used defending myself and my family in our home. The other would be used for self defense in a location away from home.

I can see myself being on firmer ground answering questions from the witness stand about why I modified the trigger on my home defense pistol than answering questions about why I felt the need to carry a pistol in public with a "modified" trigger, that I used to shoot someone. I don't think answers about "grittiness" and reset would help me much.

What do you think?

You are more accurate with a lighter trigger pull and since you are responsible for every bullet that leaves your gun, you choose to be more accurate, it's also why you've taken multiple training classes and train at the range weekly. How's that for an answer?

Btw, if you have a negligent discharge and a bad outcome, I don't think it will matter what the weight is on your trigger, an ND is an ND. If it is an issue with comfort level, perhaps you need more training.
 
Can anyone tell me what proper tools are required to do this M&P Shield Carry Kit trigger job on my 9 shield MA
 
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