Apex Tactical Solutions SD40VE trigger help please
- Thread starter Bullseye077
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Bullseye077
Member
You may get lucky and not need any work done to have trigger work after install. Good luck!
copterdrvr
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You may get lucky and not need any work done to have trigger work after install. Good luck!
Go for it and don't worry about it.
I could be wrong but I don't think I've heard of anyone else having an issue with the install. I know mine went in without a hitch and works perfectly.
The trigger combined with the Apex spring set is now AWESOME!
Jmccracken88
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I have their spring kit in my SD9VE, and put the trigger in today, at first, it wouldnt fire at all. So I followed this and shaved what seems like a lot off. Now it will fire when I pull the trigger fast, and only sometimes when I pull it slowly. Sometimes, I can pull it slow and it wont fire at all, and sometimes there's a half second to a full second delay with the trigger all the way back and me squeezing it before it fires.
Any ideas or do I need to just keep filing on the trigger?
Any ideas or do I need to just keep filing on the trigger?
Better to start your own thread (as you did) then thread mine and thread jack another...
I gave my thoughts on your other thread.
I gave my thoughts on your other thread.
jmccracken88,
I have the exact same problem as you are having with the new installed trigger. I have removed just a little and I am hesitant to remove more before I have talked with someone Apex. My trigger feels spongy. Fires almost always with my left hand and much less often with my right. I wish someone from Apex would address this issue with more clarity... especially if they are still selling it as a drop-in part. I will re-post after hearing from them. I have had no problems with any of their previous products and am thinking it is the gun (or me).
I have the exact same problem as you are having with the new installed trigger. I have removed just a little and I am hesitant to remove more before I have talked with someone Apex. My trigger feels spongy. Fires almost always with my left hand and much less often with my right. I wish someone from Apex would address this issue with more clarity... especially if they are still selling it as a drop-in part. I will re-post after hearing from them. I have had no problems with any of their previous products and am thinking it is the gun (or me).
There are variables, small ones, in the casting and molds of the SD line of guns. Some work drop in, some need some filing.
It's 10 minutes worth of work.
Here's what I'll tell you, use the punch to hold the sear block in instead of hammering in the roll pin in and out.
File until it fires every single time.
Then file it just a hair more.
Dajogejr,
That is a good idea. I did not feel I could see the surface needing filing well unless I removed the trigger. Maybe I would have done just as good a job... I did not try your method (wished I had). A lot quicker to do it your way. I did get a lot of practice in in taking apart the gun!
I ended up taking some more off the surface and now have it firing every time. I could maybe use some more off. I want to go shoot it & see what it does first. I have it fitting very well.
That is a good idea. I did not feel I could see the surface needing filing well unless I removed the trigger. Maybe I would have done just as good a job... I did not try your method (wished I had). A lot quicker to do it your way. I did get a lot of practice in in taking apart the gun!
I ended up taking some more off the surface and now have it firing every time. I could maybe use some more off. I want to go shoot it & see what it does first. I have it fitting very well.
PowerSurge
Member
Guys, check out this post I made about these issues, it may help...
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...018-apex-spring-kit-trigger-install-tips.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...018-apex-spring-kit-trigger-install-tips.html
I did the install of the trigger spring kit and polymer trigger. I must say it does feel a lot more comfortable with about 2 lbs lighter from factory. Is there any way to make it smoother though? It still feels kinda spongy like plastic rubbing together.
Tmatahead
Member
I spent about 4 hours trimming the back of the trigger. I wound up shaving off 3/16, removed the trigger assembly 18-20 times. Also, it takes a while to learn how to disassemble the weapon when the trigger won't release the striker.
Spongy
Did you smooth and then grease the trigger bar where it rubs the inside of the frame?
Did you smooth and then grease the trigger bar where it rubs the inside of the frame?
BigAl512
Member
Trigger enhancments,
Hi All, I
New to this Form , Have Bought Myself the SD9VE, Like Most and feel the Trigger is .......Well, Needs improvement, First off I'm a Certified GM tech and Not a Gunsmith But Have Been In the Automotive Business for over 40 years, I Have several Firearms and Most will get the same Treatment That I perform on them , The SD9 Model suffers from Casting Slags Mostly in the striker system , if you remove the side and work the striker by hand, you will feel the crunchiness of the striker, The trick is to remove the binding , you remove the striker assembly ( if your are the kind of Guy that will stab yourself with a screwdriver then This is not for you, ) You will have to remove the striker cover off of slide , Tools Needed , Small Jewelers set of screw drivers, , 3 punch set, small set, assorted , Finishing sandpaper , 400,600,1000,2000 if available 1000 should do the trick, 400 and 600 to clean surface's,
Insert small Tip of Flat tipped to remove striker cover , it will slide down , May have to Move Bushing forward, , Just a little,
Remove spring , watch out for small collets Don't lose them , remove plastic slide bushing that The striker is in, Note you will see two or black lines inside of Bushing assembly, Put off to side for later, we'll get back to that , Take a look at the striker, On the end which goes into the Bushing , Run Your finger tip along the edges , you will feel Machining or stamping Marks, The trick to remove those edges , or really just clean them up, so it does not binding the bushing , only remove enough so you do not feel the burrs anymore, It does not take much, polish strike pin assembly with 1000 only NOT THE POINTY END!!! leave it alone!!! put off to side,
Back to Plastic Bushing , If you have a Jewelers loop you can look inside where the lines are that where the Crunchiness came from The striker was digging in to the plastic, Lightly clean up with 1000, also smooth out the Outside of Bushing too,
The bushing should slide in and out , of upper slide, No binding, it should not be tight , if it is tight it will choke the striker , (My Taurus PT 111 G2 had this Problem But Worse! Now smooth as silk!!, That's another Forum But same Idea, ,
Take some White Ultra fine Polishing compound and Mobil 1 on a Small Artist Brush, Small amount coat inside of bore , and Plastic bushing , reassemble and Make sure it Moves freely, , Complete assembly and test You should Feel it Immediately, if done correctly , You can test just working the striker inside the Upper slide, No more crunchiness, This works for ALL STRIKER fired, Fine out where the stamping Burrs are and remove them ,
If you are braver then you can do the same with the trigger system , its fairly simple design
Hi All, INew to this Form , Have Bought Myself the SD9VE, Like Most and feel the Trigger is .......Well, Needs improvement, First off I'm a Certified GM tech and Not a Gunsmith But Have Been In the Automotive Business for over 40 years, I Have several Firearms and Most will get the same Treatment That I perform on them , The SD9 Model suffers from Casting Slags Mostly in the striker system , if you remove the side and work the striker by hand, you will feel the crunchiness of the striker, The trick is to remove the binding , you remove the striker assembly ( if your are the kind of Guy that will stab yourself with a screwdriver then This is not for you, )
You will have to remove the striker cover off of slide , Tools Needed , Small Jewelers set of screw drivers, , 3 punch set, small set, assorted , Finishing sandpaper , 400,600,1000,2000 if available 1000 should do the trick, 400 and 600 to clean surface's, Insert small Tip of Flat tipped to remove striker cover , it will slide down , May have to Move Bushing forward, , Just a little,
Remove spring , watch out for small collets Don't lose them , remove plastic slide bushing that The striker is in, Note you will see two or black lines inside of Bushing assembly, Put off to side for later, we'll get back to that , Take a look at the striker, On the end which goes into the Bushing , Run Your finger tip along the edges , you will feel Machining or stamping Marks, The trick to remove those edges , or really just clean them up, so it does not binding the bushing , only remove enough so you do not feel the burrs anymore, It does not take much, polish strike pin assembly with 1000 only NOT THE POINTY END!!! leave it alone!!! put off to side,
Back to Plastic Bushing , If you have a Jewelers loop you can look inside where the lines are that where the Crunchiness came from The striker was digging in to the plastic, Lightly clean up with 1000, also smooth out the Outside of Bushing too,
The bushing should slide in and out , of upper slide, No binding, it should not be tight , if it is tight it will choke the striker , (My Taurus PT 111 G2 had this Problem But Worse! Now smooth as silk!!, That's another Forum But same Idea, ,
Take some White Ultra fine Polishing compound and Mobil 1 on a Small Artist Brush, Small amount coat inside of bore , and Plastic bushing , reassemble and Make sure it Moves freely, , Complete assembly and test You should Feel it Immediately, if done correctly , You can test just working the striker inside the Upper slide, No more crunchiness, This works for ALL STRIKER fired, Fine out where the stamping Burrs are and remove them ,
If you are braver then you can do the same with the trigger system , its fairly simple design
BigAl512
Member
Trigger enhancments,
Almost Forgot , I too have Ordered the Trigger assembly , Vast improvement, over 2 piece design
Almost Forgot , I too have Ordered the Trigger assembly , Vast improvement, over 2 piece design
GRU_ 7_ mech
Member
When I installed my Apex trigger I had the same problem and I contacted Apex and spoke to a rep. She told me about 20% of the installed triggers need to be filed in order to reset and/or fire after installation. She had no other explanation except it could be due to the molding process of either the trigger or the firearm. Just a few swipes of the file on the rear portion of the trigger did it for me. Glad it worked out on yours.
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Polymer Trigger Adjustment
Upon the suggestion of Apex's truely excellent tech support staff, I referenced the photos several swipes above to trim my polymer trigger. I used a 600 grit 5.5 inch flat diamond file and a thin strip of duct tape protecting the frame. I am very pleased with my SD9-VE and like the trigger better than my M&P. It's not rocket science!
Upon the suggestion of Apex's truely excellent tech support staff, I referenced the photos several swipes above to trim my polymer trigger. I used a 600 grit 5.5 inch flat diamond file and a thin strip of duct tape protecting the frame. I am very pleased with my SD9-VE and like the trigger better than my M&P. It's not rocket science!
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5th time
So now I know 5 times trying to find what I was doing wrong thank you gentleman now I know
So now I know 5 times trying to find what I was doing wrong thank you gentleman now I know
