APEX Tactical Ultimate Striker

[WBlacklidge]

Has anyone installed ONLY this in their pistol?

I am trying to resolve inconsistent trigger pulls and get rid of the grittiness. If that doesn't help improve my 1 in 4 low left hits I might move onto reducing the pull weight.

My groups are not great and the trigger sadly could use some work.

 

[jepkr]

LOW LEFT HITS

Depends on wich gun you are talking about ? Also I dont know you or your history of shooting experience so I am going to throw this out there first, you can only fix one thing at a time I would start with my grip are you holding the gun correctly? Are you putting too much finger through trigger gard. Those two things affect shot placement greatly.

 

[WBlacklidge]

M&P 40c. Entirely OEM at the moment.

I think my biggest problem is trigger control. So I have been experimenting with where my finger seats in the trigger guard and slowly pulling. Its a gritty mess currently. It is also a very strong pull compared to my M&P 22. I want to get the uptake smooth and consistent first then work from there.

 

[WBlacklidge]

Just FYI I shoot the M&P 22 well.

I have anticipation problems with the 40c on my first shot but after that I don't pull low.

I feel like the M&P 22 trigger pull is consistent, expected and smooth. Not so much on my 40c.

 

[Hillbilly77]

The Apex USB will remove the gritty feeling.
The Apex Sear will reduce the trigger pull.
Neither of these things is causing you to shoot low left.

If you are shooting low left and have poor grouping, it sounds like you need more practice with your gun. Dry firing is a big help with learning trigger control.
The lower trigger wieght with an Apex sear will help you maintain better control of the gun though.

 

[WBlacklidge]

I am getting as much practice as my wallet and .40 S&W supply can take. I actually stocked up so I am set for the next 4-5 trips to the range.

Question:

If the trigger is not great and I am training on a trigger I don't like.... is that negative training?

 

[manyguns]

Dry firing against a lit background will show you where the sights are going. Trigger over travel has a lot to do with low left issues. Try putting your weak hand thumb against the frame to keep the gun from turning when you break the trigger and move through the over travel. I see this 2 matches all the time as I safety officer. The worst offenders are stock Glocks & now the M&Ps. Get the pad of your finger on the trigger so you can get in the position to press straight back on the trigger. Dry firing teaches a lot for no money. Having a trigger with a lot of over travel just sucks. If you get serious about shooting well you will end up fixing the trigger.

 

[B3500]

Understand the grittiness will go away with use, but who knows how long that takes. It bothered me enough that I did only the USB update on mine. It truly is so much smoother on take up after the minor change.

The trigger pull weight on mine is something I can live with especially since it's a carry pistol and not a target pistol. If it was just a target/range gun then maybe I would consider doing the whole trigger update.

Who knows, maybe I'll get an itch and change my mind on that decision later on, but I am ok at this point with just doing the USB.

 

[WBlacklidge]

Thanks for the information. I have the USB sitting at home and will install it tonight.

I am still working on getting used to the gun. If I take my time, concentrate on the trigger pull... I shoot well. If I try to speed up a little there is just so much going on with the trigger along with everything else I am trying to concentrate on, consistency is hard. It isn't so much that I shoot left as that I drop 1 and 5 really low on the target. So that is all anticipation and practice.

You know what is funny? My M&P 22 made by Walther out of box has a great trigger... my M&P 40c trigger is an inconsistent grit mess.

 

[Hillbilly77]

I am still working on getting used to the gun. If I take my time, concentrate on the trigger pull... I shoot well. If I try to speed up...
...consistency is hard.

It seems you already have your own answer to your accuracy problems.

Concentrate on learning the gun and trigger control, etc.
Speed will come later on.
In the mean time, if you want to install Apex upgrades to improve the feel of your trigger, I'm sure you'll like the results.

 

[MSG Glenn]

I don't imagine that practicing with an inferior trigger then switching to a better trigger will affect your accuracy unless you're compensating your aim point. Easy enough to correct after a few rounds.

What is the manufacturing date of your M&P? I heard that those made early this year were improved somewhat with a less gritty trigger & a positive reset.

My son has a PD - issued M&P 40 that he got while in the police academy & he claims the trigger is as smooth as butter with an audible reset click. He likes it even better than the Glock 23 & 21 that I gave him which had good triggers. I have yet to find out as I'm still waiting for my M&P 40C to be delivered. Anything has to be better than the trigger on my Sigma 40VE which in itself has smoothed out just fine. I hate to think of getting an Apex kit but I'll do it if I feel the trigger is deficient after a bunch of rounds downrange & lots of dry firing. I'll give S&W a call first if I'm not satisfied. I've heard of people sending their M&Ps back & Smith will polish the trigger group or change parts until it's right. For defensive carry I won't be too particular but for competition it has to be 100% right.

 

[manyguns]

Life is too short to live with a crappy trigger.

 

[Rastoff]

A better trigger absolutely will help with accuracy. I highly recommend the Apex Forward Set Sear kit. It reduces over travel (not the problem) and is a better trigger pull. The aluminum trigger is much nicer than the stock trigger.

 

[thndrchiken]

The USB is the best bang for the buck to clean up the gritty trigger, will also lighten the pull slightly. I did the full DCAEK, did not do the trigger because they weren't available yet.

 

[WBlacklidge]

I can not get the sights to budge even with the plastic tool the kit came with.

I used the 1/16 wrench to remove the screw that holds it in then tried to hammer the sights (with the plastic tool) in the direction of the ejection port. It didn't move at all!

I am probably going to have to take it to a gun smith.

In other news. I took the gun to the range and I shot the best I had ever shot with it. So that is rad.

 

[Robotech]

I can not get the sights to budge even with the plastic tool the kit came with.

I used the 1/16 wrench to remove the screw that holds it in then tried to hammer the sights (with the plastic tool) in the direction of the ejection port. It didn't move at all!

I am probably going to have to take it to a gun smith.

In other news. I took the gun to the range and I shot the best I had ever shot with it. So that is rad.

The plastic tool IS NOT for knocking out the sight. It's just for keeping the striker block spring and cap from flying off as you slide the sight off, and for holding them in place as you slide the sight back on.

You have to use either a sight press/tool or a hammer and brass punch to loosen the sight, and then to get it back in position. DO NOT use a hammer and punch to remove or install tritium sights!

 

[S&W Rover]

I eventually bought a MGW sight tool for work like this -- esp. changing the front sight. The rear sight can usually come lose with a wood block hit with a hammer (this prevents marring the metal, which a metal punch will). The trick is to secure the slide firmly, in a vise (watch out you don't squeeze it too much) or even by hand (best to have someone hold it with two hands against a strong surface, while holding the wooden block against the left side of the sight with one hand and smacking it with the hammer in the other hand).

Like I said, the MGW sight pusher is a great tool to have.

 

[bikendan]

The plastic tool IS NOT for knocking out the sight. It's just for keeping the striker block spring and cap from flying off as you slide the sight off, and for holding them in place as you slide the sight back on.

You have to use either a sight press/tool or a hammer and brass punch to loosen the sight, and then to get it back in position. DO NOT use a hammer and punch to remove or install tritium sights!

Exactly! you know that Apex has a YouTube video on installing the USB and it clearly shows that the plastic tool is only to cover the cap/spring/plunger, NOT to punch out the rear sight.

 

[WBlacklidge]

Yep I definitely watched the video. They start with sights that are already loosened and freely move with a few taps of the hammer. I am on a fresh gun that doesn't play nicely.

With the kit they give you a piece of plastic that fits where the sights go exactly. It is used to hold the spring in as you drift. Given that I didn't have a brass punch or sight specific tool I figured the plastic piece that was designed to fit in the channel might serve. Fairly logical assumption if you ask me. It just doesn't transfer the hammer energy well enough and will not work.

@ S&W Rover thanks for the advice. I think I am going to get the tool. Is this the one you are referencing?

Maryland Gun Works Front & Rear Sight Tool S&W M&P

Also can you confirm if this works on the M&P compact or just the FS? I think the sights are the same, so I am making the assumption it will work just fine on a compact.

 

[cmm5350]

Yep I definitely watched the video. They start with sights that are already loosened and freely move with a few taps of the hammer. I am on a fresh gun that doesn't play nicely.

With the kit they give you a piece of plastic that fits where the sights go exactly. It is used to hold the spring in as you drift. Given that I didn't have a brass punch or sight specific tool I figured the plastic piece that was designed to fit in the channel might serve. Fairly logical assumption if you ask me. It just doesn't transfer the hammer energy well enough and will not work.

@ S&W Rover thanks for the advice. I think I am going to get the tool. Is this the one you are referencing?

Maryland Gun Works Front & Rear Sight Tool S&W M&P

Also can you confirm if this works on the M&P compact or just the FS? I think the sights are the same, so I am making the assumption it will work just fine on a compact.

How many times do you think you are going to take the rear sights off of your gun? Just go to lowes/homedepot and buy a brass punch for like 2-3 dollars and a nylon hammer 5-10 dollars and you will make out a lot better. I did the USB while putting on the comp AEK and I have a punch set and what not but when I loosened my rear sight it fell right off the gun so I have no idea how hard it is to drift newer sights. However a good brass punch and whatever non metal hammer you have will do the trick.