Apex Trigger Kit - Shield - DIY

[tlcoulter]

I am a mechanical klutz, but I was able to install an Apex trigger kit in my S&W Model 638 Revolver. Now I am contemplating putting an Apex kit in my Shield 40.

How does the degree of difficulty compare between installing the kit on a revolver versus a semi-automatic?

 

[Shield9mm]

never taken apart a revolver so can't say much, but on the pistol probably the hardest is removing the rear sights.

 

[ken158]

The auto is much more difficult then the revolver and as noted, getting the rear sight off a Shield can be a bear.

 

[icemn]

You are clearly not a mechanical klutz! If you can handle the revolver, you'll be fine working on the shield.

 

[Wee Hooker]

Depends on how much kit you want to install.
Just putting a sear in gives you about 75% of the benefits of the full blown kit and ( if memory serves) only requires popping the sear block from the frame after pushing one pin . ( Read: pretty easy). Changing additional springs and/or the trigger itself goes up in involvement but none of it is hard. (Much easier than a revolver IMHO) As mentioned, If you want to install a new safety plunger and spring, the rear sight needs to come out. That can be easy or hard depending on the individual gun and your availability of tools.
FWIW, I often get the results I want by just doing the sear and polishing the trigger bar and plunger on my M&Ps.

Check out youtube for lots of video's showing the process.

 

[Dad_Roman]

^^^^^^^ +1 ^^^^^^^^

AND I just dropped the sear only into my Shield9 and it made a DRAMATIC difference. From 6.5 down to 5.

 

[greeenteeee]

^^^^^^^ +1 ^^^^^^^^

AND I just droppe the sear only into my Shield9 and it made a DRAMATIC difference. From 6.5 down to 5.

Good to hear. The biggest trouble as mentioned is the rear sight IMO. I took my pins out the other day to tinker with the internals. Wasn't too bad, except one of the roll pins chipped, but was able to still use it.

I'm considering the sear only-- luckily the USB on mine doesn't feel too gritty.

 

[Zoner]

i also did the sear only and am very happy with the result. The Shield is a self defense/carry gun and doesn't need a target grade trigger to do what it is meant to do.

 

[Bill In Texas]

I think you could do it! The toughest part is getting the rear sight off!

 

[S&W Rover]

Removing the rear sight is not hard, but it is best to be prepared before doing it. Make sure you remove the rear sight in the correct direction (the dovetail is directionally tapered!). Removing the sight can be done with a wooden block and a hammer, using a vise with the slide well-protected. But it is best done with a sight pusher, like the MGW sight pusher. A proper sight pusher is less likely to damage the finish on the sight or the pistol.

But as noted, the USB provides a small percentage of the benefits of the kit. So you can leave it alone and see if you like it with just the sear installed. The sear is the main contributor to a lighter trigger press.

Replacing the striker spring can lessen resistance to the trigger press as well, but may/may result in lighter strikes -- too light to ignite the primer (some primers are harder than others. In particular, Russian-made primers are known for being hard, as are primers on some of the top end NATO-spec 9mm ammo).

 

[tlcoulter]

I installed the Apex sear in my Shield 40 yesterday. I followed a Youtube video showing how to do it, and it took about an hour. I removed the pin at the trigger (I don't know if this is necessary for just replacing the sear), and the hardest part for me was getting that pin back in. I found that I had to hammer the pins in more aggressively than I expected. After finishing I ordered another sear - to install in my Shield 45.

Will the Apex sear improve the Performance Center model as much as the non-PC models?

 

[Shield9mm]

II removed the pin at the trigger (I don't know if this is necessary for just replacing the sear), and the hardest part for me was getting that pin back in. I found that I had to hammer the pins in more aggressively than I expected.

No it is not necessary.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[greeenteeee]

I'll be doing the sear on my gf's Shield 9 soon, but I've taken out the pins on it-- it was hard to hammer them in for me too.

I installed the Apex sear in my Shield 40 yesterday. I followed a Youtube video showing how to do it, and it took about an hour. I removed the pin at the trigger (I don't know if this is necessary for just replacing the sear), and the hardest part for me was getting that pin back in. I found that I had to hammer the pins in more aggressively than I expected. After finishing I ordered another sear - to install in my Shield 45.

Will the Apex sear improve the Performance Center model as much as the non-PC models?

From what I understand, a nice all-OEM setup is adding the "Pro" sear to the standard Shield. The Performance Centers add a heavier spring to bring up the pull. They said there are plenty of "pro/performance center" sears for those who upgrade to the Apex sear.

stock > performance center > Apex.

I read about someone who dropped the Apex sear in their PC Shield today...

Just measured my PC9 trigger (200 rounds, lightly polished trigger bar, light dry fire) to be 4lbs 14oz. I'd be worried with it being "too light" since from what I've researched, the Apex sear will drop the pull anywhere from 1.5-2lbs.

It MIGHT get lighter with use, my standard felt lighter as soon as 400 rounds (some say it took theirs 2-3000 rounds), but I never measured the pull when new.

 

[epj]

Getting the rear sight off is not at all difficult if you use the proper tools:
Shield sight change Picture heavy