Apex trigger kit: what am I going to need?

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bxojr

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Got a question for those of you who have done an Apex trigger kit installation.

I've got a stock M&P 9, and I'm hoping to tackle the installation of the Apex Competition AEK next week. I've never done something like this before, but I've watched the YouTube videos and I'm pretty sure I'm smart enough to figure it out. :)

However, I want to make sure I've got the right tools before I start the job. I'm not the kind of guy who has a fully equipped workshop in the garage; I tend to buy tools as I need them. Based on what I've seen, here's the stuff I've got on my list:

  • Vise
  • Hex wrench for the rear sight set screw
  • Propane torch, if needed to loosen set screw
  • Punch set
  • Small tweezers
  • Small hammer or mallet

Is there anything else I'm going to need?
 
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Be careful with the torch. You may just use the heat from a soldering iron directly on the set screw or drop a finishing nail in the set screw hole and heat that. You need to have a large enough hammer and brass punch to get the sight off. I found the $20 having the gunsmith do it, money well spent.
 
Get a sight pusher. Someone sells them here I believe. If you search posts that I have started (not many) you will find the one I use and recommend.
 
The part of the APEX kit that makes the most difference is the enhanced striker block and the reduced power spring that comes with it. You can buy that alone and save money. If you want the whole kit, that's fine too and it appears you have everything you need except a block of delrin - propping your handgun frame on a delrin block makes driving pins out easier.

If you don't care about your rear sight, then beat on it with a punch (I would say beat it off but that has double connotations!). If you want to preserve your rear sight or if you're going to replace it with night sights while you have it off (like I did on my two FS M&P's and my Shield) I would recommend you use a sight pusher tool. See if you can borrow one from a local smith/shop. Since you have to remove the rear sight to get the USB out and replaced, now would be a good time to go for some night sights if you don't already have them.

The best advice though is to watch the installation video APEX put out for their kits - it's in youtube.
 
One of those torch lighters will work just fine. It only needs to be held there for a couple of seconds to melt the locktite.
 
Thanks for all the input. I have to admit, the rear sight removal is the part that's got me most worried. I've seen reports from people who say it came right out with no problem, and others who couldn't get it to budge. I don't have a sight pusher, and I'm not sure I can justify buying one just for this job ... plus, I'm really hoping to do this next week (I'm on vacation), and I don't know that I can get one by then. Shipping from California to NC is either slow or expensive (or both!).

If I get a gunsmith to remove the sight, can I reinstall it myself? Or would I be better off getting the gunsmith to do the whole striker-block install?

I'd kinda like to do this myself so I can learn more about my gun's innards, but if it's going to cost me way more than just hiring a gunsmith, I may decide it's not worth it...
 
I used a nylon drift on the rear sight, which worked fine. Dawson uses an aluminum drift with masking tape to not mar the slide. It took some hits to get it to move, and move it did.

Loosen the allen hex screw, then pad the vice (aluminum/masking tape on boths sides between the vice grips and slide), put the slide in it, tighten it up, then use the nylon drift pushing it from left to right as viewed from the back (or, put another way, remove it in the direction the ejection port faces).

1/8" roll pin punch is the one you'll need.
 
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bxojr said:
Thanks for all the input. I have to admit, the rear sight removal is the part that's got me most worried. I've seen reports from people who say it came right out with no problem, and others who couldn't get it to budge. I don't have a sight pusher, and I'm not sure I can justify buying one just for this job ... plus, I'm really hoping to do this next week (I'm on vacation), and I don't know that I can get one by then. Shipping from California to NC is either slow or expensive (or both!).

If I get a gunsmith to remove the sight, can I reinstall it myself? Or would I be better off getting the gunsmith to do the whole striker-block install?

I'd kinda like to do this myself so I can learn more about my gun's innards, but if it's going to cost me way more than just hiring a gunsmith, I may decide it's not worth it...
Click to expand...

Let's put it this way, if you foresee yourself taking an interest in customizing your gun, and in the future, gunS, then getting the proper tools would be justified. If you do not see this as a possibility, then at this time, either use the tools you have (or can get within a reasonable $ amount) and go for it, or spend a few bucks to have a gunsmith do it. FWIW, if all you're interested in is learning about the innards of your gun, there are tons of videos and articles online that will teach you everything you want to know, and you don't have to spend a dime. ;)
 
Jyezahn said:
FWIW, if all you're interested in is learning about the innards of your gun, there are tons of videos and articles online that will teach you everything you want to know, and you don't have to spend a dime. ;)
Click to expand...

But that would be no fun! I want to get my hands dirty a little.

I think your advice makes sense, and a friend of mine said something similar. I'm going to see what I can do with a minimal (but hopefully adequate) investment in tools. As my friend pointed out, I'm probably going to want to replace my rear sight eventually anyway, so I might as well get some practice!
 
Hey, one more question for those who have been through this install before. Any suggestions on the best way to make sure I get the rear sight back into proper alignment? Is just making a pencil mark on the slide and the sight sufficiently precise?
 
I measured mine, and it was dead nuts centered, so that's where it went back to. If you're mounting the slide in a vice, measure from the edge of each vice grip to each edge of the rear sight.
 
bxojr said:
Hey, one more question for those who have been through this install before. Any suggestions on the best way to make sure I get the rear sight back into proper alignment? Is just making a pencil mark on the slide and the sight sufficiently precise?
Click to expand...
Put a piece of tape (the kind you can write on) on the slide, then take a straightedge on the sight and make a mark on the tape. Then when you put it back together, line up the mark. (I wouldn't trust a pencil mark on the slide, too easy to rub off)
 
I have now done two DCAEKs, on a 9mm FS and a 40C. I had little trouble removing the rear sights on either with a tape covered brass punch. The brass punch did not like it much, but it worked well.
 
The tape is a good idea to make a mark for your sight position. I did the AEK trigger. My rear sight set screw was no problem. I used a metal chisel wrapped with tape to drift the rear sight over. It moved without too much effort. There were some very small, light marks left from the chisel but hardly visible and I just used a permanent marker to touch it up. I didn't have an amorer's block(delrin), so I wrapped some pieces of cardboard tightly together and rested the pistol on there when I knocked the pins through. The hardest part for me was knocking the pin back through the trigger/spring assembly, even with the dummy pin they supplied with the kit.
 
Is the apex kit really worth it? I ordered an entire factory sear block assembly for $25 vs just the apex sear for $40 something... The burwell trigger job I did kicks a lot of butt, but is too light to carry...
 
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Do not use the Torch, you don't need it. The set screw will come right out. I've installed a few kits now in my 2 M&P's and a friend's.
 
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