Apex trigger kit

[Gun Smoke]

Hello all, I have a M&P full size .40 with about 1500 rounds through it so far....I would like to ask a couple of questions...
The trigger was really rough when new but has smoothed out some but the break is still pretty stiff and gritty and I am thinking of the Apex kit as some say it really makes a big difference....
My question is does it really make it better and should I send the pistol to them to install and fit it (I'm no gunsmith)...Second question is about a barrel swap...I understand you can buy a stock 9mm barrel and it will work in the .40 frame....Are barrels available from S&W or should I look at aftermarket sellers like Brownells or is it better to spend the extra money for a Storm Lake conversion....Thanks everyone and I appologize if these questions have been asked before...

 

[Bkreutz]

Hello all, I have a M&P full size .40 with about 1500 rounds through it so far....I would like to ask a couple of questions...
The trigger was really rough when new but has smoothed out some but the break is still pretty stiff and gritty and I am thinking of the Apex kit as some say it really makes a big difference....
My question is does it really make it better and should I send the pistol to them to install and fit it (I'm no gunsmith)...Second question is about a barrel swap...I understand you can buy a stock 9mm barrel and it will work in the .40 frame....Are barrels available from S&W or should I look at aftermarket sellers like Brownells or is it better to spend the extra money for a Storm Lake conversion....Thanks everyone and I appologize if these questions have been asked before...

1. Most of the grittiness comes from the trigger bar when it contacts the sear block, the Apex kit re-uses the original trigger bar. You can either smooth it out or like you've already discovered, shooting it will eventually smooth it out. The Apex FSS will improve the break but more importantly it decreases the travel and over travel (and it gets rid of the 2 piece trigger). Can't comment on your abilities, but it is quite simple, my feeling is that if you can change the oil in your car, you can do it.

2. S&W doesn't sell barrels retail anymore so your only option is a stock barrel from a retail outlet (Midway, Brownell's, etc) or an aftermarket or conversion barrel. I've heard both sides of the argument but I'd rather go with a conversion barrel. HTH

 

[dreigs]

I have the complete apex kit and it makes it a whole new gun. Get the polymer or aluminum trigger too. The difference is ridiculous. I have the competition kit and the trigger pull is so light and short. I'd put the same setup in any future m&ps I get

 

[stackofhay]

Two comments:

1. Apex kits are worth it. I've installed more than 10 for my guns and for those belonging to friends. If you have a 1/8" coil pin punch and a hammer you can do the job. I also use a 1/16" punch for a few tasks, but the tools and the job are pretty basic and the results are quite remarkable. If you are in MA, I'll do it for you if you are intimidated. The whole job takes 30 minutes plus a little extra if you polish a few key faces while doing the job.

2. There are a lot of varying opinions on the use of a 9mm barrel in a 40 cal frame. You should search here on the forum and others and make your own opinion. I would never do this in my own gun as the hood of the 9mm barrel that I tried was narrower than the 40 in the gun and the barrel could be moved from side to side in the slide at lockup. My conversion barrel's hood is the full width of the slide opening.

 

[Gun Smoke]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their replies....I have a KKM 9mm barrel on the way...Real nice folks there and I'm really glad you can do this as I almost bought another inexpensive 9mm pistol to plink with but now I can practice with my M&P and use the cheaper ammo...Best of both worlds!!!

After the barrel swap I am going to attempt the Apex DCAEK install myself...Videos don't look that hard but if I can't do it I will find a local gunsmith to do it for me...Thanks again everybody for the good info!!!

 

[skiwesson]

I have the complete apex kit and it makes it a whole new gun. Get the polymer or aluminum trigger too. The difference is ridiculous. I have the competition kit and the trigger pull is so light and short. I'd put the same setup in any future m&ps I get

Plus 1,it makes a HUGE difference,highly recommend,again the price is high.

 

[ladyT]

I purchased the MP 40 VTAC and it's trigger was the worse thing I had ever experienced. It was simply garbage and I was quite surprised that S&W would let a gun out of the factory in that condition. Anyway I purchased the Apex trigger kit and have been quite happy since. The Apex trigger is the way to go. Its the difference between night and day. I highly recommend it.

 

[AGoyette]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their replies....I have a KKM 9mm barrel on the way...Real nice folks there and I'm really glad you can do this as I almost bought another inexpensive 9mm pistol to plink with but now I can practice with my M&P and use the cheaper ammo...Best of both worlds!!!

After the barrel swap I am going to attempt the Apex DCAEK install myself...Videos don't look that hard but if I can't do it I will find a local gunsmith to do it for me...Thanks again everybody for the good info!!!

I put the DCAEK kit in myself into my 9c. The only part I did not do myself was the USB. I was already planning on changing my sights, so I just had my gunsmith put it in when he did my sights. He only charges me $15 to put on new sights, so you can hardly beat that. He charged me nothing to swap out the USB. My only issue is when I took out the sear block, I ended up making my sear plunger go zinging across the room. I never found it and had to buy another from Speed Shooters Supply. So I would recommend using a large plastic bag when there is a chance for small parts to go flying across the room.
Putting in the DCAEK kit made me more familiar with my gun and less afraid of doing anything to it. I decided to put it in myself because I am cheap and did not want to pay $40 to have someone put it in when I can do it myself. I have now ordered the Apex polymer trigger that I am going to put in the 9c and a FSS kit and RAM that I am going to put in my 2010 5" pro. I don't mind and or am not afraid to replace springs, etc. None of that is permanent. Physically removing metal from the gun, no thanks. My husband is proud to say that his wife is doing her own gunsmithing. I don't think replacing springs, etc is gunsmithing, but if it makes him happy...

 

[Rastoff]

1. Most of the grittiness comes from the trigger bar when it contacts the sear block,...

I'm pretty sure he meant to say striker block.

Here is a parts identification list: http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-pistols/341115-m-p-parts-identification.html
Here is a pic of the part that needs to be smoothed out:

The red arrow is pointing to the surface that generates most of the "gritty" feeling. Smooth that surface with some 600 grit sand paper and you'll notice a marked improvement without replacing any parts.

After the barrel swap I am going to attempt the Apex DCAEK install myself...Videos don't look that hard but if I can't do it I will find a local gunsmith to do it for me...Thanks again everybody for the good info!!!

You can do it. The M&P is the easiest gun to work on. The only real hard part is removing the rear sight. The rest is just a matter of taking your time.

To limit the possibility of losing a spring, work inside a medium sized cardboard box. Just remove the top and set it up on a side on your workbench. This way, if a spring launches, it won't go far. It may not be contained in the box, but at worst it will fall at your feet.

 

[mustangfreek]

Same as above, most of the grit is in the striker block. I just did a dcaek kit in one gun , ful lsize 45 and it feels much better then before.

Also just did a DIY "burwell" trigger job on the full size 9 model along with a aek trigger and it feels better then the dcaek kit, i pulled apart the slide polished the striker block plunger and its bore, dropepd in a Apex spring (cost me $3 from them) and it made it smoother then the dcaek kit plunger.

Also reshaped the sear a little, polished up the sear, trigger bar, sear plunger and reused the stock springs along with the aek it feels awesome now.