Assembling a Bolt Action Rifle?

[TheTinMan]

I have an early 1960s 270 Winchester sporter built on a Belgian Mauser 98 action and a couple of old 22s that barely count as rifles. That’s it - there are lever guns and semiautos but no other bolt actions.

A younger friend of mine works for Q who make The Fix bolt action rifle. It’s interesting but wicked expensive and there are a few features I don’t like. 300 Blackout never interested me, largely because of the rainbow trajectory. However, the new 8.6 Blackout cartridge is very interesting to me. Seriously heavy bullets, a big meplat, and workable out to 300 yards or so.

It’s cold and icy outside this time of year so I started daydreaming about building my own bolt action rifle. Clearly this is NOT anything like the Lego experience with AR-15s, but there do seem to be several custom actions that might be compatible with Faxon 8.6 BO barrels. There’s tons of Remington 700 “compatible” stocks, triggers, etc.

I have successfully built a couple of 308 ARs. Those don’t just fall together like AR-15s do. I understand what headspace is and how to use the gauges. I can clean up a S&W revolver just fine, but know that I don’t have the experience to mess with a vintage Colt double action revolver.

Can anyone point me to some useful resources?

The Mausingfield action might be the heart of the beast. I think that the Faxon “remage style” barrel is compatible but need to verify that.

I would ask you all if I am crazy but already know the answer to that question!

 

[LVSteve]

That link is hosed up. I did a direct input to the site and WOAH!!! that's some pricey stuff.

 

[TheTinMan]

That link is hosed up. I did a direct input to the site and WOAH!!! that's some pricey stuff.

I think I fixed the link. Sorry about that. Yes it is very pricey, but a Fix rifle is $3,300. I believe that I need a barrel ($320), a trigger, bottom metal, and stock/chassis (most expensive other part).

If anyone can suggest a controlled round feed bolt action that is good quality, takes a remage barrel, and costs less - please do!

 

[Model5]

Looks to me to be the “ar 15 of bolt actions”. I can’t imagine if you purchased all the components it wouldn’t be as simple as piling it all together in the shape of a rifle and it would be good to go.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

Savage model 10 and 110 rifles are a more modular type of rifles. They are a "push feed" system as are Remington 700 and Winchester post 1964 model 70 rifles. The Savage system uses a "floating bolt face" which allows for an automatic adjustment or alignment of the bolt to the rim area of the cartridge. This can be changed easily to fit different cartridge. The removal of barrels used dedicated wrenches, and a "barrel nut" that allows for far easier headspace adjustment.

There are two length actions: short (models 10, 11, & 12) and long (models 119 and similar numbered). 110 actions can be adapted to almost all centerfire cartridges with the 223 bolt face up to the and including the 338 Lapua bolt face. (which is the same diameter as a 45-70)

I have 3 very accurate factory rifles in 3 different sized cartridges. First is a Target rifle (single shot) in 223 that consistently shoots 100 yard groups that are in "The Zeros" (groups that when measured for distance of centers the group size starts .0xx, which translated to automatically less than 1/10 inch). This gun also shoots 1000 yard groups in the 3 inch area of size when using a bench rest stock or 5 inch with a hunting stock.

I also have two of the now discontinued metal chassis rifle, a 10BA in 308, and a 100BA in 338 Lapua Mag. Out of the box accuracy was also in "The Zeros" with both rifles at 100 yards. (the 308 has similar accuracy at 1000 [best 5 shot group was 2 1/4"@1000] and the 338 most likely does too, but my follow through on recoil management keeps me closer to .6 to .8 MOA.

I have friends that assembled 10 and 110 rifles truly remarkable accuracy form parts that are from a number of common sources.

The Black Out cartridges are amazing when loaded subsonic and used with a silencer matched to their size. (One size fits all is less than optimal!) I have an AR-15 dedicated to 300 blackout and am satisfied with the performance to 200 to 225 yards. It should be noted that British SAS and SBS troops took out German sentries in WWII using DeLisle Carbines in 45 ACP at the 200 yard distance with great regularity. (Rainbow trajectory is only a problem for a shooter unfamiliar with the merits of the round!) I would assume the 6.8 BO will work on pest removal at distances exceeding the 300 yard mark!

Ivan

 

[colt_saa]

Are you looking to suppress? Or are you just looking to build something on a Mauser style action?

The 8.6BO is not much flater shooting than a 300BO presuming we are comparing projectiles from the same side of the weight class. I admit that I keep my 300BO shots to under 200 yards

This integrally suppressed BlackOps 300 rifle shoots 1/2 MOA with the hand loads and is quieter than a staple gun. We built the first ones to use Ar15/M16 magazines. The chassis will take your favorite AR butt stock and grip. These were built on Savage Model 12 receivers

The biggest problem will be the 8.6 BO ammunition availability. If you hand load the 2nd biggest problem will be brass availability.

Loading data will also be sparse. Now if you are already a wildcatter load data is probably not a problem, you know how to work without published data

If you are looking for a bolt action cartridge in the 8.6mm range that is suppressible, I might be looking at the 338 Whisper. The Whisper has been around for a few decades now, so there is a good variety of load data for it. The Whisper will also fit in an AR10 if you want a semi auto

338 Whisper brass is simply 7MM BR that has been necked up so making your own is not too hard. To make 8.6 BP brass from the 6.5 Creedmoor parent case the shoulder has to be set back and then the neck opened up and finally the brass gets cut shorter, a bit more work

 

[Ruger 13]

I’d stick with the Belgian 98 for a true custom bolt action rifle!

 

[SS336]

Is it just me or does that bolt handle on the Mausingfield action look like a baby’s binky (pacifier)?
Guess i am old but I agree with Ruger 1,3 use a real Mauser 98 for your custom rifle.

 

[TheTinMan]

I’d stick with the Belgian 98 for a true custom bolt action rifle!

I am not touching my Mauser 98 except to bed the recoil lug. The only reason I even want to do that much is that a crack is developing in the stock at the back of the rear tang. A friend of my father’s had it custom made, then Papa ended up with it somehow. It has a Lyman Alaskan 2x scope with a German post reticle on a sliding dovetail Jaeger quick detach mount. With handloads even I can get 5-shot, 3/4 MOA groups out of it consistently.

I wish that I knew what to look for regarding the top of the rear sight. The base on the right side says Lyman. There’s a block on top of the base I assume the rear peep sight mounted onto. (Sorry for cruddy pics - was in a hurry)

 

[TheTinMan]

Are you looking to suppress? Or are you just looking to build something on a Mauser style action?

The 8.6BO is not much flater shooting than a 300BO presuming we are comparing projectiles from the same side of the weight class. I admit that I keep my 300BO shots to under 200 yards

This integrally suppressed BlackOps 300 rifle shoots 1/2 MOA with the hand loads and is quieter than a staple gun. We built the first ones to use Ar15/M16 magazines. The chassis will take your favorite AR butt stock and grip. These were built on Savage Model 12 receivers

The biggest problem will be the 8.6 BO ammunition availability. If you hand load the 2nd biggest problem will be brass availability.

Loading data will also be sparse. Now if you are already a wildcatter load data is probably not a problem, you know how to work without published data

If you are looking for a bolt action cartridge in the 8.6mm range that is suppressible, I might be looking at the 338 Whisper. The Whisper has been around for a few decades now, so there is a good variety of load data for it. The Whisper will also fit in an AR10 if you want a semi auto

338 Whisper brass is simply 7MM BR that has been necked up so making your own is not too hard. To make 8.6 BP brass from the 6.5 Creedmoor parent case the shoulder has to be set back and then the neck opened up and finally the brass gets cut shorter, a bit more work

That is an extremely cool rifle!

I will look into .338 Whisper. Yes, I am interested in getting a suppressor for this rifle. I am not a wildcatter yet. Brass availability is the Achilles heel of 8.6 BO at this point. Apparently there can be problems with the thickness of the brass in the neck portion of the case, depending partly on whose 6.5 CM cases you start with. I have never done annealing or neck turning. In conclusion, this may be “a bridge too far” but it’s fun to research anyway.

Edit to add: 338 Whisper is another wildcat, but it doesn’t have the support of Hornady and Faxon the way 8.6 Blackout does. Lee makes a die set as well.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

The issue of going from 6 or 6.5mm to 8.6 mm case necks isn't really an issue. Just like 300 BO Full Length sizing the case in a 8.6 die pushes the shoulder back without the need for annealing. Basically FL size then trim to length. (Just like 300 BO)

Ivan

 

[serger]

I built a medium barrel Remington 700 .308 using the Savage
barrel nut set up eabco peddles. Very easy to headspace and
Lap. And much easier to headspace than a 98 Mauser.

E. Arthur Brown Company - Guns, Barrels, Shooting Accessories


Might want to give them a look.

 

[2152hq]

Lyman made both the #57 and the #48 rear recv'r sight for the Mausers.
The '57SME' was the common model that was a one size fits all.
The SME meant Springfield/Mause/Enfield,,all mounting on the right side of the rear recv'r ring. Many were sold when the sporterizing craze was heavy.

The backside of the sight base should have the Sight Model # stamped on it.


The #48 sight had Target adjustments. They made a version for the Mausers as well. They are more often seen on 03 Springfield sporters from before WW1 and betw the Wars than Mausers.
They had short, medium and long 'bar' versions for various sport and long range target shooting

Both show up on Fleabay frequently,,even as parts.
Often seen at gunshows too. Many shops that actually do gunsmithing may have some parted out sights as well.

From the pic of the right side I'd guess it's a Lyman 48 with a medium length elevation bar on it.
The entire top assembly is easily removeable which includes the side elevation bar.
Lyman sold blank insert elevation bars to place in position when the top assembly was out of the rifle. Like when a scope would be in use.

Nice rifle and scope.
The Lyman Alaskan is a pricey item these days!
That's what I think of when someone mentions assembling/building a rifle.

Lots of Mauser, Krag and 03 Springfield actions around still.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

My hunting Krag. If I hunted anymore. Bubba started the job, I just finished it.

 

[TheTinMan]

Lyman made both the #57 and the #48 rear recv'r sight for the Mausers.
The '57SME' was the common model that was a one size fits all.
The SME meant Springfield/Mause/Enfield,,all mounting on the right side of the rear recv'r ring. Many were sold when the sporterizing craze was heavy.

The backside of the sight base should have the Sight Model # stamped on it.


The #48 sight had Target adjustments. They made a version for the Mausers as well. They are more often seen on 03 Springfield sporters from before WW1 and betw the Wars than Mausers.
They had short, medium and long 'bar' versions for various sport and long range target shooting

Both show up on Fleabay frequently,,even as parts.
Often seen at gunshows too. Many shops that actually do gunsmithing may have some parted out sights as well.

From the pic of the right side I'd guess it's a Lyman 48 with a medium length elevation bar on it.
The entire top assembly is easily removeable which includes the side elevation bar.
Lyman sold blank insert elevation bars to place in position when the top assembly was out of the rifle. Like when a scope would be in use.

Nice rifle and scope.
The Lyman Alaskan is a pricey item these days!
That's what I think of when someone mentions assembling/building a rifle.

Lots of Mauser, Krag and 03 Springfield actions around still.

Thank you very much for this info!

Here is a photo of the Lyman sight base with the temporary filler removed. “F67” is stamped inside that slot.

And for everyone, here is a pic of the Jaeger sliding dovetail, quick release scope mount take apart. You rotate a small lever, push a button and off it comes. Easy/peasey!

 

[Drm50]

Mauser 98 is the way to go after a classic custom bolt gun. On other hand if you are into sniper/ para military type gun the Rem 700 is more economical way to go. I think they took over especially around my area where a lot of custom Varmit guns were produced. I’ve got no experience with Savage 110s. I never liked Remington or Savage Bolt actions. Always did pre 64 Win 70s or Mauser based rifles, but I only like classic rifles.

 

[2152hq]

The sight is a Lyman #48.
The Letter/Number on the inside is an assembly code. To keep the parts together as a unit. The cross bar had the matching number/letter on it's reverse side.

These were hand finished and calibrated sights. Those elevation and windage marks are not just for show, they are precise.
So a matched # sight is more desireable on the market than a mixed # one. But in reality, a mixed # crossbar will usually fit right into place and most will never notice a difference in shooting as far as group size.
Scopes being the trend of the Century, iron sights are mostly an ornament anyway,,,,for most people.

Here's the same sight as mounted back in 1928 when Hoffman Arms Co built this 98 Mauser sporter.
Same Lyman 48 with mid range elevation bar.

Inside the base are the matching #'s.
Reverse side of the elevation bar shows the matching #.

You would have to take the base right off of the rifle (two 6-48 screws) to see the factory marking of the sight model designation. Some only have what rifle they fit and that is in a short hand code..

 

[LittleCooner]

I will admit that if you buy a mausingfield action, put a Faxon barrel on it in 8.6 BO, you will most likely have the only one on the face of the earth. I can not see purchasing one of the top of the line custom actions to put a faxon barrel on it, especially is such a wildcat that is so intense to make your brass. But I have spent a lot of money in the past putting some crazy rifles together. Hey, go for it if that is what you want. Do not expect to ever recover your money if you decide to sell it.

 

[TheTinMan]

I will admit that if you buy a mausingfield action, put a Faxon barrel on it in 8.6 BO, you will most likely have the only one on the face of the earth. I can not see purchasing one of the top of the line custom actions to put a faxon barrel on it, especially is such a wildcat that is so intense to make your brass. But I have spent a lot of money in the past putting some crazy rifles together. Hey, go for it if that is what you want. Do not expect to ever recover your money if you decide to sell it.

Recovering my money never entered my head! I just thought “If Q can charge that much for The Fix, maybe I can roll my own for the same or less.”

I hear you loud and clear on the Faxon barrel though. Finding a used Remington 700 and putting a “remage” barrel on it probably makes a lot more sense.

 

[Fishinfool]

Another action you might want to consider, if you want a CRF action is the Mini Mark X .223 version, a Mauser scaled to the .223 cartridge. I think Howa still makes their mini push feed action. Maybe a Kimber CRF action, or a CZ-527?.

These are actions scaled to the cartridge, which I generally like. For mostly bench / range use, a full size action will of course work as well.

Larry