Bake-on Laquer

[tomhaka]

I am considering, if possible, of bluing the "trigger" and "hammer" on my S&W 686. I guess what I mean is that I want them a consistant color like the product from Brownell's listed below might offer? In matte black. Is this a good way to go, or is there a better way of getting the job done. The hammer and trigger would demand something that would be tuff enought to handle their actions, of course. Any help would be appreciated.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...G%20LACQUER%20LIQUID
thanks, haka

 

[tomhaka]

I am considering, if possible, of bluing the "trigger" and "hammer" on my S&W 686. I guess what I mean is that I want them a consistant color like the product from Brownell's listed below might offer? In matte black. Is this a good way to go, or is there a better way of getting the job done. The hammer and trigger would demand something that would be tuff enought to handle their actions, of course. Any help would be appreciated.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...G%20LACQUER%20LIQUID
thanks, haka

 

[john traveler]

The hammer and trigger must endure every action cycle, and that frequently means rubbing against the insides of the frame. On well-used colorcased triggers and hammers you see this as scuff marks where the finish is removed. On stainless guns, you can see where the flash hard chrome is abraded, but the finish will hold up.

I see no possible way that any painted or even baked on finish will hold up to any normal use. Scuffed and chipped painted surfaces look like crap and detract considerably from the rest of a well-maintained gun.

 

[Spotteddog]

What J/T said.

 

[tomhaka]

What you say makes alot of sense. Now I understand why the specified parts are like they are. Thank you

 

[tomhaka]

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...G LACQUER LIQUID

I did order a can of the BOL to give and old handgun a new finish. I didn't put it on any high friction areas, but just on the slide. I did this to hide some minor scratches that were bugging me.