Barrel Change

[Sodacracker]

How difficult, or practical, is it to change the barrel length on my new Model 19 Carry Comp? I just equipped my 38spl +p Centenial with laser sights. As such, it now will become my primary carry weapon. I love the Model 19 but, if it doesn’t require a gunsmith to swap barrels, it would be great to have a 5 1/2” barrel for target shooting. That’s the first question. My second question is, can you remove the barrel tip on the Model 19 to facilitate cleaning the compensator chamber? I’m just getting back into revolvers after a long, long, time - so please bear with my amateurish questions.

 

[SAFireman]

You should probably have a gunsmith do the barrel swap.

And - No, the 19 Carry Comp does not have a removable compensator.

 

[HamHands]

OP, I've been working on my own guns, friends, relatives firearms for years and everyone has been happy with the results. I'm just now comfortable enough to do a barrel swap on an "N" frame and a Colt "D" frame... So if I were "green" again like I was 12 years ago... I'd certainly opt for a legit gunsmith to do the barrel swap. If you are hell bent on doing it yourself then at the very least get a copy of "Gunsmithing" Pistols and Revolvers, 3rd Edition by Patrick Sweeney, and the appropriate vice, protective vice jaws, barrel wrench, etc...

 

[Sodacracker]

I understand that the comp chamber is basically formed by the barrel shroud - but the tip of the shroud has what appears to be a screw-on cap that finishes the tip. On my particular gun it looks like the cap is not screwed down tight to the shroud as there is a very fine gap.

It’s obvious that, with this barrel and shroud assembly, alignment of the shroud is no longer a factor - and I’m guessing that there is simply a torque value that needs to be addressesd. As for the headspace between the barrel and cylinder, would that simply be correct when a correctly manufactured barrel is torqued down - or would it require further fitting? Are internal barrel wrenches readily available?

 

[BAM-BAM]

Feeling a little slow here .......

But
Aren't the "Carry Comp" Model 19s Performance Center guns..... with an MSRP >$1,000
And, where are you going to find a 5 1/2" barrel?

Keep(or trade) the Carry Comp and get a 6" L or K-frame .38 for the range.

 

[Sodacracker]

Feeling a little slow here .......

But
Aren't the "Carry Comp" Model 19s Performance Center guns..... with an MSRP >$1,000
And, where are you going to find a 5 1/2" barrel?

Keep(or trade) the Carry Comp and get a 6" L or K-frame .38 for the range.

Yes, they are - and it’s a terrific piece. What got me thinking was how the two-piece barrel was assembled vs a pinned one-piece barrel. It looks, perhaps deceptively, simple to change the barrel and shroud - but only if a properly engineered replacement was available. Essentially, the only factors involved would appear to be torque, and headspace between the cylinder and the barrel. Alignment issues (“cant”) would not be involved - as it is my understanding that the shroud fits into a machined recess on the frame.

Your final suggestion to purchase a 6” K frame 38+p for the range is a good one - and I’m not about to risk screwing up the Model 19 if a barrel swap isn’t easy. The Model 19 is a lot of fun to shoot with the compensator.

I am still wondering about that cap on the end of the shroud that helps to form the compensator chamber?

 

[BAM-BAM]

Do a search here...... couple of recent threads on "Dan Wesson" Revolvers....from the late 70s/early 80s. that were designed from the ground up with 2 piece barrels and the ability to change barrels...... 2 1/2, 4,6,81/2

 

[bigggbbruce]

It takes a special barrel nut wrench. Might be available.

 

[Sodacracker]

It takes a special barrel nut wrench. Might be available.

For the end cap? No reason for that cap to be torqued down but I would like to close the gap - even if I just have to hereinafter do the dental work to clean the chamber.

 

[gdogs]

Is it doable? Yes, for a person with some mechanical knowledge and the tools. I've done some, and I've paid to have them done. I think you'd be better off selling the Carry Comp (they bring a premium), and buying a 586/686.

 

[Sodacracker]

It looks like the barrel change is too risky and impractical. I would still, however, like to find out if the end cap is easily removed for cleaning or, if not, how to tighten it down flush with the end of the barrel/shroud.

 

[silentflyer]

If you are referring to the Dan Wesson's needing a special wrench, they are available from EWK Arms.

 

[bigggbbruce]

What got me thinking was how the two-piece barrel was assembled vs a pinned one-piece barrel.

Essentially, the only factors involved would appear to be torque, and headspace between the cylinder and the barrel.

It takes a special barrel nut wrench. Might be available.

For the end cap? No reason for that cap to be torqued down but I would like to close the gap

Yes, to torque the new two piece barrel it uses a special wrench that fits in the barrel. The barrel is still threaded into the frame and by trimming the shroud you close the barrel gap.. Torque the barrel and volia!!..kind of nifty really.. get a jig to support the frame ..

 

[Sodacracker]

I’m over my interest in changing the barrel but I sure would like to see a “cut-away” drawing showing how this assembly goes together. I completely understand the basic design but what does the notch-out between the frame and shroud look like? The shroud appears to close flat against the frame - but surely there is an alignment recess for the shroud to fit in. That said, how could you trim the shroud at the frame to control the headspace between the barrel and cylinder - as per the preceding post? I would think that trimming the barrel would be easier to do

 

[Toolguy]

Usually on shroud/liner barrels you just screw the liner in/out of the frame to set the barrel/cylinder gap. The nut on the front secures the setting. The liner is in tension, the shroud in compression. Usually there is an index pin going from the front of the frame to the back of the shroud to keep it lined up straight.

 

[Sodacracker]

Unless there’s a sleeve in the compensator chamber, the finish nut on the sleeve doesn’t appear to have any function relative to sececuring the barrel. As I mentioned before, there’s a uniform gap between the finish nut and the end of the shroud that you can slip a standard sheet of copy paper behind. I’d like to close that gap.

 

[Sodacracker]

Usually on shroud/liner barrels you just screw the liner in/out of the frame to set the barrel/cylinder gap. The nut on the front secures the setting. The liner is in tension, the shroud in compression. Usually there is an index pin going from the front of the frame to the back of the shroud to keep it lined up straight.

Not on the Model 19-9. When you swing the cylinder open there is a very obvious projection off of the frame that the shroud fits snugly over for alignment. If S & W started with a shroud cut to provide zero headspace between the barrel and the cylinder, it would appear that the only logical adjustment would be to provide varying thicknesses of washers between the barrel and the shroud. The shroud closes flat against the frame - so no adjustment available at that point. The more I look at the Mod 19-9, the better I like it.