I don't know how much "slop" you have, but my knee-jerk reaction is to knurl the offending surface----or both surfaces if there are two (back side of frame post and front side of latch??). An excellent poor man's knurling tool is a center punch----an automatic center punch, simply because of the precision with which they may be used. And now that I've thought about it, I'm not quite sure how you're going to go about knurling the front side of the latch with a center punch. With luck it won't be necessary. Without luck, a GOOD machine shop may be able to help.
I think step one would be to determine how much "slop" you have (baby feeler gauge----"plasti-gauge" maybe). Step two is to determine how much "upset" you can create with the punch----repeated applications of the punch (in the same hole) is going to make the hole deeper----and the upset larger/higher.
AND before step one is to determine the wear you're trying to make disappear is between the latch and the post-----and not between the latch and its fastener.
Finally, my cop-out clause: I have never done anything like this to a gun in my life! I have done it to a whole bunch of race engines----where I (rather severely) knurl piston skirts to achieve a very tight (too tight actually) fit in the bore, and let them make their own clearance-----which they do quite nicely with about a twenty minute break-in run on the dyno.
Ralph Tremaine
I've taken a short break to sit and stare at a gun-----pretty much a brand new one. It appears I was correct about the two surfaces being the back of the post and the front of the latch. I was incorrect about it being difficult to get to the front of the latch (I think). It appears the front of the latch is going to be right out in front of God and everybody once you remove it from the barrel. One thing of note: Both these surfaces are radiused (latch in/post out). My (again) knee-jerk reaction is you're going to want to use your punch at the respective apex of each radius----assuming you need to treat with both surfaces. Given what I suppose will be a rather nerve racking, but simple task, I'm inclined to recommend just one hole (center punch hole) on each surface----dead center. It's worth noting you can "move" the hole (and the upset) somewhat (enough) if you're off with your first effort, simply by tilting the punch---point it in the direction you want the hole to move. That's it----I think!
Well, I thought wrong! One hole on each surface pre-supposes the "upset" from one hole will be insufficient. That would be what is known as a fact not in evidence. It may very well be one upset will suffice. If it was me, I'd be making that one upset on the post. And remember those famous words: Measure twice---cut once!!
And do yourself a favor----buy a brand new, first class punch. Don't be borrowing one from your buddy, because it is almost certainly going to be in need of sharpening. Worse yet will be if he's already sharpened it----because it will be wrong. First class automatic center punch bits are "sharpened" by buying new ones----no exceptions!!
