base of 357 not reduced by sizing die?

unfortunately the bulge buster appears to only be for rimless semi auto cartridges. where it really counts is in my revolvers and lever action. If the load and eject there, then all is cool. After having some extraction issues I wanted to use the case gauge rather than having my pristine nickel model 19 on the loading bench as a tool.

I may consider having a gunsmith reaming out my case gauge to sammi champer specs where are 1-2 thousanths larger than the current case guage, which i believe is .379. if the camber gauge represents my model 19 chamber it would be very handy, right now it's too conservative
 
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I may consider having a gunsmith reaming out my case gauge to sammi champer specs where are 1-2 thousanths larger than the current case guage, which i believe is .379.

Instead you might consider having the gauge measured to find out what it's diameter actually is. Case gauges are already made to SAAMI specs for ammo, not chambers. While I've never owned a case gauge for a straight walled pistol case, I strongly suspect that the gauge is made to maximum SAAMI ammunition specification, which is smaller than chamber specs.

You didn't mention if you'd actually measured the chambers in your handgun or the ammunition in the area in question. You might want to do so. I used a micrometer on some .357 I reloaded and the cases in the area you're concerned with ran between 0.377 and 0.378 in after being processed through an old Lyman (pre progressive presses) carbide die. I highly doubt all the chambers in your cylinder are exactly the same size. You might try those rounds that won't drop freely into the cylinder in another chamber. That's just another reason to have your chambers number stamped.

You mention a Rossi rifle. Might some of those "fat" rounds have been fired in that?

BTW, you didn't mention the source of the ammo and only noted it was fired "in a model 19". Your model 19 or someone else's?
 
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Carbide dies are a goodness

Just my opinion, but the information I have about carbide sizing dies says the shellholder should not touch the carbide ring of the die. Apparently the brittle Carbide ring can be broken. I have settled on a hint I read... remove the decapping pin...a piece of copy or notebook paper on top of the ram, raised fully, watching for any "cam over"; screw the die in until contact is made, then back off "a little". I adjust so the paper can barely slide without tearing. That will give ~.004" clearance between the shellholder and die. My Carbide dies appear to have the ring inset a small distance, looks to me less than paper thickness, apparently to avoid contact, so maybe the paper isn't necessary, but...belt and suspenders, you know!
 
The reason they don't want the carbide ring against the shellholder is because the carbide is inserted in the die. and are kinda glued in. I have carbide dies that have no relief..flat to the bottom of the die and machined..not the little thin things they have today. I do leave a couple thousandths leeway. ...but thin the shellholder if needed. Most can be thinned by an easy 10 thousandths. the machined dies with carbide inserts have to be used carefully to get the cases in the die
 
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I have had this problem. In my case, the cause was ignorance. I thought I had the die screwed in as far as it needed to go; but if the lever of your press is not "camming over" with one, final, extra shove on the lever, it's not resizing the whole case.
 
I use mostly Lee dies and I follow the Lee instructions to screw in until you touch the plate, then turn another 1/4-1/2 turn I believe. Never broke a sizing ring myself.

Rosewood
 
Ive cut back dies and thinned the rim of shell holders to get the case further into a sizer. A bench belt sander works fine. I was reloading .450 webley balloon head brass with very light loads and needed to get the base resized all the way. In building brass for a 1905 Argentine ‘Mannlicher 7.65 I would run 30 carbine all the way into a sizer die [with the decapping stem removed] including the base. Then drive them out from the top with a punch. Thinking that I sized them normally to start with but left the primers in.
 
I have had the Titanium Nitride ring on my Hornady Custom sizing dies loosen. Called customer service on the 38/357 die and they sent me one marked as being for "9mm/9x21"! I load quite a bit more 9mm, so... When I called them back they indicated it was "good for both": I guess it could be for all FOUR?

So, a couple drops of SuperGlue gel and the 38 Special/357 die has kept a workin' for about 4 years, now....

Cheers!
 
any suggestion about where to get a steel resizing die. Every one on midway usa is carbide

Nobody makes them anymore. Try used on eBay. I see them there. Note RCBS used to use yellow tinted labels on steel dies and blue tinted labels on carbide. Look for yellow labels. Sellers often don't understand the difference. There's lots of other brands that made steel dies.

Also note that in ye olden days sometimes the decapping pin was not in the sizing die, it was in the expanding die. But later production steel dies did have it in the sizing die. Seek and ye shall find.
 
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The only carbide sizer I ever broke was a Lee.They would not fix or replace it. Sized 10 cases...#11 broke it. So I no longer buy Lee dies...but I did just buy a Lee 6000 press for a friend... Should be here tomorrow
 
any suggestion about where to get a steel resizing die. Every one on midway usa is carbide

You don't need to buy anything more @magnumb. You have everything you need. I have many Lee Carbide handgun die sets and never had a problem with cracking the Carbide ring. Just set the sizing die down where it should be and your brass with be sized correctly. Give it a try, you just might save some heartache and money too...

Please let us know it that works.
 
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The Rollsizer is the only way to resize a rimmed case all the way to the rim. Many don't think it is necessary because because it is an additional process. You still have to use a conventional resizing die after rollsizing. Once I got mine I became a believer due to the results. Rollsizing resolves many issues with brass.

Rollsizers are expensive and an additional process but worth the dollars and time in the quality brass that results from it's use.
 
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