Bead Blasting-Go from shiny to matte or from too course back to matte

I do not have a bead blaster at present, but worked for awhile in a shop that had quite a large one, large enough to handle barreled rifle actions and shotguns, as well as handguns. And I blasted many guns with basket-case finishes with it, turning them into something worthwhile. I even refinished beat-up M16 plastic stocks with it, finishing them with spray-and-bake Teflon coatings.

The spray-and-bake coatings work OK on bead-blasted steel surfaces, but adhere much better if they are Parkerized first.
 
Whatever cabinet you get make sure both replacement gloves and glass is available. The glass WILL get foggy, and the gloves WILL wear at the fingers.
 
Whatever cabinet you get make sure both replacement gloves and glass is available. The glass WILL get foggy, and the gloves WILL wear at the fingers.


A piece of window screen placed in front of the blaster window (inside ) keeps the glass from being fogged up quickly. I have a piece about an inch in front of the glass and its still like new.
 
Blaster maintenance

The shop where I worked kept the glass covered with plastic wrap--little to no distortion--had to replaced occasionally, but extended the life of the window considerably.

Jim
 
The plastic cover work well on the glass. If you have a blast cab Dont forget to put good lighting in and try to keep your air dry. It will help big time in the end. Great work here!!!
 
I'm thinking maybe my Ruger Redhawk needs to be bead blasted. My 2 Taurus 85CHs, too.

The OPs 627 originally looked about as coarse and dark as AMTs pistols did. I had one of their 1911s.
It was great, after I did a bunch of work to it.
Out of the box, it would choke on hardball.
 
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