Beginner to reloading-.38 Bullet Questions

[Wise_A]

A long time ago when the earth was "flat" I did a little reloading on a single stage press for 25-06 and .45LC. Small batches for accuracy. I just bought some reloading equipment. I will reload 9mm and .38. I've decided for the 9mm to begin with Delta Precision 124gr FMJ and not plated. Now I trying to determine appropriate .38 for range shooting. I have a model 64, a Ruger LCR .357 (shoot .38 in it) a Ruger Vaquero and Uberti Cattleman but not shooting Cowboy comp.
Questions:
1. I can save money shooting lead instead of plated or FMJ. But i am concerned with leading issues and well as the safety of handling lead bullets and shooting lead bullets at the indoor range I've been using. In the spring I will join a gun club and can shoot outdoors much of the time. i can wear gloves when handling the bullets while reloading if that is appropriate. But when the gun goes "bang" I assume, but don't know, if small particles of lead spray from the chamber/barrel and barrel. Is this an issue at an indoor range (suppose to be well ventilated but the gun is still close to where i'm breathing)?

Ehhhhhhh....couple things.

Most of the really hazardous lead that gets ejected from a gun when firing is lead styphnate from primers. The bullet mostly stays intact under normal operations--shaved or partially-melted bullets are what we're trying to avoid!

When you see prohibitions against lead bullets at indoor ranges, mostly it's the smoke from bullet lube that causes the problems. And that's because people usually like to be able to see the targets they're shooting at.

Health-wise, the problem with indoor ranges is the build-up of that lead styphnate. Everything you touch is covered with a layer of the stuff unless the place is cleaned regularly (I've never seen a range that really was). If you want to avoid taking in lead, it's simple: wash your hands with cold water before driving home (to avoid transferring lead to your car's steering wheel, and exposing yourself every time you drive). When you get home, if you want to be super-careful, change your clothes.

When reloading, I myself like blue nitrile gloves when loading lead ammunition. I consider them an $8-a-year convenience subscription. Super-handy for cleaning guns as well!

2. Any suggestions for specific lead or lead coated bullets that are reasonably priced and group well that don't create leading problems. These will be mild to mid level range loads not "hot" reloads. I'm guessing the HBWC like from Delta Precision works well and cheap but I'm back to the safety concerns and leading questions.

Leading happens for the following reasons, in order:

--Improperly sized bullet
--Wrong hardness

For a true .38 Spl, I find it hard to go wrong. I've used swaged lead from Magnus and Speer, and 12 BHN 158-gr LSWCs and 148-gr DEWCs from Missouri Bullet. I've had some incredibly minor leading in .45 ACP, but it was really nothing to write home about. MBC has produced some excellent groups at 50 feet (about 1.5", edge-to-edge, for an offhand 10-shot group--I can't do much better with a red dot and a match .22, so I think I was the limiting factor).

If you're in the Precision Delta price range, look at Zero bullets swaged offerings, as well as Magnus. Both have excellent reputations in the bullseye community. Both of those manufacturers' bullets are proven to be capable of 1.5" groups at 50 yards.

3. Any suggestions for inexpensive, but shoot well, plated or FJM .38?

Check out Everglades, although I'm really of the opinion that .38 Spl works best with a lead bullet. If smoke was a concern for an indoor range, I would use one of their coated bullets.

 

[Carrier]

I don't agree with plated bullets sticking in barrels. One of my favorite and accurate loads is 3.0 grains of Bullseye under a 158 grain Campro plated flat point in a .357 case.

 

[GypsmJim]

Regarding lead exposure:
Wear nitrile gloves when handling lead bullets and washing your hands very well after reloading. Tumble your brass outside if possible and have a dedicated pair of shoes/ball cap/jacket that you only wear at the range and store in the garage. Change your clothes when you get home and wash the other clothes you wore at the range separately. Take a plastic jug of waterless hand cleaner with you when you go to the range and clean your hands very well afterwards. Limiting your exposure to lead is the key. It's impossible to fully protect yourself, just use common sense.

The comments here sound like they came from a nurse or an environmentalist. I'm sure all the points are valid and people that follow those rules should be commended. Good work and good comments...

That said, I'm very sloppy. I've been casting lead bullets for over 40 years. In the basement with no ventilation. Street clothes, no special precautions. My indoor range has had good ventilation for 30 years, but none for the years when I first started shooting.

Eons ago I read a white paper published by a consultant that actually tested the casting and reloading processes with govt. spec equipment. I was familiar with the tests because in my past life I tested factories for airborne pollution (early days of OSHA).

In any event, last year when i did my annual physical I asked my doctor to include a lead screen. I came back almost zero.

I don't worry any more.

 

[bowzette]

Two more questions:
1. Will I be able to find adequate reloading data for reloading plated .38 and polymer coated bullets? do you use data for lead bullets or do some manuals specially address coated and plated bullets?

2, Would I use a roll crimp or taper crimp on plated bullets? on polymer coated bullets? I have the Lee four die set and the crimp die for .38 is a FCD and stated as roll crimp. But reading on Midway the Lee factory description for a separate taper die states:

"The Lee Taper Crimp Die is hardened steel designed to overcome crimp problems caused by poor die design. These dies offer little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp. Jacketed bullets must have a crimp groove (cannelure).

It sounds to me that I can use the FCD I have on plated and polymer coated .38. Am I reading this correctly?

 

[rwsmith]

Another choice

Coated bullets are pretty much the new generation. They contain lead (though not completely on impact) they can be shot like jacketed, clean to handle. This is my first choice nowadays.

Heavy plated bullets are almost as good as jacketed and cheaper.

Jacketed is best all around but they are expensive.

Lubed lead shoots very well, hard cast can be pushed to high velocites, but they are 'dirty'. I have never had a problem with leading, though I know it's common.

Regular plated is clean to handle but give little coverage for the lead core

My range has no problem with shooting lead.

I'm a Missouri and Bayou fan myself.

I would 'presume' that the ventilation at ranges is good at handling the air and take it away from the firing line.but I think at my range there's a guy waving a newspaper in front of the vent.

 

[bowzette]

I've been saving Freedom Munitions .38 brass to reload. Any problems reloading FM brass? I realize it isn't expensive brass but is to adequate to get multiple reloads at lower to mid level pressure?

 

[4barrel]

The only 38 brass that gives me a problem is military head stamp because of hard seating of primers. You can shoot a plated bullet for $8.50 per hundred + shipping. Just make sure they are .357 size. Some times you can get free shipping. I have been reloading since the 80s and had a lead test 2 years ago with no problems. I probably saved $200.000 by reloading but I cant find it.

 

[rwsmith]

Can you hit......

The only 38 brass that gives me a problem is military head stamp because of hard seating of primers. You can shoot a plated bullet for $8.50 per hundred + shipping. Just make sure they are .357 size. Some times you can get free shipping. I have been reloading since the 80s and had a lead test 2 years ago with no problems. I probably saved $200.000 by reloading but I cant find it.

Can you hit the primer pocket with a chamfering tool.