Best 357 target Load for Model 19?

[aterry33]

Forgive me if this has already been posted, but I couldn't find it. I want to pick up a case of 357s for my (no dash) Model 19. I know that it's not a good thing to run 125 grain stuff through the 19 so that's out of the question. Who makes a good factory load? This is for target shooting and not defense. I was looking at these by Federal:

http://www.federalpremium.com/...s/handgun.aspx?id=77

I was also looking at Remington's 158 grain wadcutters.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[aterry33]

Forgive me if this has already been posted, but I couldn't find it. I want to pick up a case of 357s for my (no dash) Model 19. I know that it's not a good thing to run 125 grain stuff through the 19 so that's out of the question. Who makes a good factory load? This is for target shooting and not defense. I was looking at these by Federal:

http://www.federalpremium.com/...s/handgun.aspx?id=77

I was also looking at Remington's 158 grain wadcutters.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[john traveler]

The M19 is rated as a "carry much, shoot seldom" sidearm. By this, I mean that while it handles full charge .357 Magnums, it will last a lot longer if you do most of your shooting using .38 Special ammunition. There is nothing wrong with 148 WC or 158 SWC .38 Specials for target shooting. Firing .38 Special lead bullet loads exclusively, it will last forever. If you fire only Magnums in it, it might need tightening up and re-timing after only a few thousand rounds.

I'm firmly in the "load magnums only for serious purposes" camp.

 

[semperfi71]

aterry33,

Any brand or type of factory ammo could be the most accurate in your M19. You will have to shoot a lot of stuff to find the most accurate load. Your M19 might like Remington while mine prefers Federal.

You might get lucky and the first box you buy might be very accurate, or you may have to shoot a lot of stuff to find the right load.

I reload a 148 grain hollow-based wadcutter load in .357 cases and get 1 1/4 inch groups [5 shots] at 25 yards in my 4 inch M19. The same load in other .357s of mine is less accurate.

 

[diamonback68]

As has been said, I wouldn't just run out and buy a case of anything until I find out what my gun likes. That's a big expense to find out you're wrong. Buy a half dozen boxes of mixed 148 and 158 grain stuff from different manufacturers and then you will find your own answer. Besides you will be lucky to find a store that has a case of any caliber of ammo right now with the shortage going on.

 

[johngoboom]

Good advice from everyone...Make sure your testing from a rest when looking for accuracy. No sense adding the human factor into your testing.

As far as finding the ammo...Take what you can get, it ain't easy right now.

 

[aterry33]

Thanks everyone for your responses. Is it best to shoot FMJ ammo from a pistol like this where I want to be "easy" on it? I have heard that will held to prevent lead fouling of the barrel from lead. Someone was suggesting lead bullets.

 

[semperfi71]

Hi aterry33,

There is probably very little factory loaded F [full] M [metal] J [jacketed] ammo out there for .357 and .38. There might be G.I. FMJ in .38 available.

Jacketed softpoint and hollowpoint is the norm and or lead.

Most people never shoot enough jacketed softpoint or hollowpoint to make a difference in the wear of a pistol bore in .357 or .38.

Lead ammo may or may not lead YOUR bore. A variety of factors cause leading.

The main issue with K-Frame .357 S&W revolvers seems to be erosion and cracking of the barrel forcing cone. This seems to occur where the bottom of the forcing cone is because it is thin there. This issue is not widely prevalent but it seems to occur often enough that it should be "watched" out for.

I personally have decided to shoot lead, medium velocity loads in my S&W K-frame .357 revolvers. Either target type loads or loads equivalent to a .38/44, which means a 158 grain lead bullet at about 1100 feet per second.

If I want to "hot-rod" a S&W .357 I shoot an L or N frame.

But please realize I reload.