Best .45 Colt Carbide Resizing Die

I have used LEE dies on reloading the 45 colt for years . Heck , I started out reloading the 45 Colt using the LEE Classic loader kit for several years , where you pound eveything together with a soft face mallet . It was slow , but worked just fine so when I got my press and a set of LEE dies I thought this is a definite step in the right direction . I will continue with the LEE dies . Regards Paul
 
I know the "unsized ring" at the case base looks wonky but it realy does no harm ... I agree with you ... I don't want wonky looking ammo either ... So let me suggest something ...
Don't full length size the case all the way down , size the case to just above the unsightly "ring " and no farther down and see how they chamber .

I use this method with a tight 38 Special Carbide sizing die (Lee) and it worked . Sometimes you have to full length size all the way to the shell holder ... but it doesn't cost anything to try a 3/4 Size on it .
Good luck ,
Gary
 
Been using the same set of Lee 45 Colt carbide dies since the 1980's. No issues. My cases get too long so occasionally I have to trim them. Once in a while a case will crack from thinness. Then it goes in the trash.
 
Thanks to all for experience and suggestions, especially gwpercle's suggestion for Lee Case Lube and 3/4 length sizing. This could solve the bulge problem in other straight wall pistol cases. It is an appearance thing and probably of no importance in the context of revolver accuracy, but it is satisfying to make pretty ammo. I haven't used case lube for 40 years so am eager to try something easy to use. I still remember wiping off RCBS case lube (anhydrous lanolin) when I was young and poor, but with stronger fingers. My aversion to Lee is not complete as I use their collet dies exclusively for bottle neck rifle cartridges, at least those going back in a bolt gun. Thanks again for knowledge sharing.
 
I found that for my Marlin 45 Colt CBL, that I could adjust my carbide sizer to just go down about 3/8" of an inch, just sizing enough of the case to hold the bullet. By FL sizing all the time, I would develop splits in the middle of the case, after a few loadings. By neck sizing only, the cases lasted a long time. Eventually, I would have to FL size, when chambering became a little difficult. To neck size you will likely need a seperate decapper, as the sizer's decapper won't reach bottom.

I only load to traditional velocities, 1050 fps with a 255 gr bullet, so that might be a factor, plus Marlins have been known to have large chambers. Just something to consider. Cases are really expensive now, and anything you can to to prolong their life, pays dividends.
 
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On the advice of a friend I got rid of carbide dies in the 45 colt. The brass lasts a lot longer with a tapered die and only sizing the first 1/2 of the brass.
 
I do use carbide dies unlike mtgianni. And I do not full length size. I also use case lube with the carbide dies.No case stretch. I do have an occasional cracked mouth but I just shorten them to Scofield length and keep using them. I have some cases where the headstamp is almost worn away from shooting over and over. 45 auto too. Case lube is your friend even with carbide dies. I use the spray stuff lightly...let it dry for an hour and load on a 550. The short cases I load on one of the T-7s. Real Scofield case rims are sometimes a different size
 
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Late to the party, but my two cents anyway.

Great advice posted in this thread. A lot of experience to draw from.

I've successfully sized .45 ACP, .45 Win Mag, .45 Colt and .454 Casull brass using a .45 ACP carbide sizing die.

I have multiple brands of dies my most loaded cartridges. Some I mix and match, others are used as they were boxed.

I have several .45 Colt, 454 Casull, and a plethora .45 ACP dies and die sets from various manufacturers. As other here have stated they all work quite well using the manufacturers instructions, but I also stray away from time to time. the partial sizing can do well in many applications.

As long as they chamber reliably and hold the projectile in place under recoil and in a tubular mag, they should be fine. I'm a stickler when it come to case mouth expansion too. I expand the case mouth the minimum amount possible to get the projectile started in without damage to the bullet. Case mouth chamfering and bevel base bullets make this easier. Like bottleneck cases, the less you work the brass the better.

Still, for the most part I'm going to FL size straight wall cases.
 
Go down to your local hardware store and buy one or two 7/8" machined washers. Set your die up for F/L sizing, and then just put a washer or two under the die lock ring as needed. This way the die is set for F/L sizing if you want too, or you can just add a washer to raise it up a bit for neck sizing only. Works great.
 
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