Best cleaning products & regiment for a blued wheelgun?

[Brooklynite]

ETA: Geez, just realized auto-correct changed "Regimen" to "Regiment"...

I just bought my first pistol a week ago. It's a 6" 28-2.

It's in great condition and I just want to make sure that I have the proper supplies and system and won't hurt the pretty matte blue finish.

So far I've ordered some CLP, and a basic Dewey 38/357 cleaning kit with brass rod & muzzle guard. I'm planning on picking up some renaissance wax too.

Is there anything else I should pick up or avoid?

 

[Rpg]

All you need is a bottle of Hoppes, a pistol length cleaning rod, a brass bore brush attachment, a slotted attachment, some Rem oil and old t-shirts.

 

[SJshooter]

I've used nothing ever but FP10 on my blued guns and it works fantastic. Swab the forcing cone and muzzle before you shoot with it, and you can wipe off 90% of the mess with a rag right after shooting. FP-10 and nylon brushes do the rest. When I handle blued guns, I always give them a wipedown with an old FP10 rag to prevent fingerprints from setting in.

 

[murphydog]

Good suggestions above. Avoid using any "lead removal cloth", as it removes bluing.

 

[CoMF]

Sounds like you've got all the bases covered. As was already stated, avoid "lead remover" cloths and pick up a Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells if you plan on shooting lead bullets in any volume.

 

[Brooklynite]

Great, Thanks.

How do you guys feel about pull through systems, like Boresnakes or the Otis kits?
Maybe for an initial run-through with a boresnake before going to work with a brush & patches? I've used one on a 10/22 for quick cleanings and it did an ok job.

 

[SJshooter]

I take a boresnake to me on the range. I spray a little FP-10 down the barrel, and run that through while the gun is still warm. This saves a lot of time when I get home.

 

[stevehart3578]

I give boresnakes a big thumbs down.

Hoppe's #9 on a patch to wet the bore and cylinders holes, scrub bore and holes with brush.

Another Hoppe's soaked patch thru the bore and cylinder holes to remove the grime. Dry bore and holes with clean patch. Then soak a clean patch with Hoppe's gun oil and run through bore and cylinders for storage.

Occasionally put a DROP of oil in the places S&W recommend.

I also have a 6" 28 no dash that gets the same treatment, just for not as long.

Wipe down gun with clean, lightly oiled rag, store in gun rug.

This has been serving me well for many, many years. I will attach a photo of my M28-2 that has been cleaned this way for 25 years.

Everything you see on the shelf at the local gun store is designed to separate you from your money. You don't need gun care products that are marketed by ex Special Forces soldiers, you don't need products named after animals, remote western locales, female body parts or any other ****.

The only additions I would make are if you shoot a lot of lead I would invest in a Lewis Lead Remover. I have used the same ones in .38 caliber and .45 caliber for a long time.

If you are even more frugal you can make your own bore solvent. Google "Ed's red". I have made and used it and it is fantastic.

After using Ed's Red you can go to the shelf in your garage where you keep your car stuff and lube your guns with motor oil. It is designed for torturous environments and it works great.

The first gun, like all of my guns, gets cleaned regularly with the basics. It has never let me down. I also have a 6" M28 no dash. (Great choice by the way, you will love it.) It gets the same basic treatment, I just haven't had it as long.

 

[Harrison]

If you want a cleaner/lubricant the is friendly to the finish on your pistol, as well as the wood grips, while being an excellent cleaner, lubricant and protectant, then you want to use Ballistol. In addition you don't have to worry about getting it on your skin. Almost 100 years ago some of Germany's smartest chemists developed Ballistol to be the perfect gun cleaner, lubricant and protectant. It has been doing it's job ever since. 10w-30 Mobile One mixed 3:1 with ATF also is a superior gun lubricant.

 

[Rockets]

Mpro7 followed by a Ballistol treatment.

 

[H Richard]

There are almost as many different combinations of chemicals and implements for cleaning as there are shooters. Most of us are creatures of habit, if what we have been using for 25 years is still doing the job it will be used for the next 25 years. I've been using Hoppe's and Breakfree for over 20 years and have tried many others over that time period, but still come back to them. As long as you clean your gun and keep it oiled and clean it will be well take care of. I do recommend Renaissance Wax, especially for blued guns.

 

[wlewisiii]

Been using Breakfree CLP since I first learned of it in the Army. Haven't bought any Hoppe's since.

I have just started using Froglube as well. So far I'm fond of it - better smell & non-toxic and it's working well on my test subject - my Model 10-5. If it's better than Breakfree, I'll switch to it completely but for now I have both.

 

[5 screw]

I've been using G96 CLP for cleaning and lubrication for years. Works great and doesn't have an offensive smell like some of the other products out there. Given that I only shoot lead in my pre m27, every once in a while I'll run a Lewis Lead Remover through it. As others have suggested, it's a good tool to have if you're going to shoot lead.

This thread reminded me of a visit I paid to Fred Kart, the barrel maker. He was about to turn over the .45 1911 he'd built for me, but before he did, he sprayed it down with his oil can. When asked what he used for a lubricant, he replied " a 50/50 mix of water white kerosene and Marvel Mystery Oil". That was about 25 years ago, and it was the first and last time I ever heard of that concoction being unused.

 

[Bajadoc]

Use some type of gloves while using the solvents and oils. Easer on the hands. I use rubber surgical gloves.

 

[Hawg Rider]

A lot of the guys talk about cotton t-shirts for wipe downs, and they do work fine. However, I find that the new microfiber cloths are outstanding...whether it's for wiping off bore cleaner or gun oil, or for applying and buffing off Flitz Polish or Renaissance Wax. Obviously, use different microfiber cloths for different solvents or lubes, and throw them in the wash as needed.

 

[MrO17]

Just wondering if i could put the blue parts from a 19-2 into an ultrasonic cleaner.

 

[*chris*]

I really like the Otis pull through system and use it with mpro7 cleaner.

I wax the outside of the revolver with Renaissance wax buffed with a cheap microfiber cloth from Walmart.

I use TW-25b grease and oil on the extractor, crane, and internal bits and pieces every once and a while.

I have no idea how to remove the burn rings from either a blued or stainless steel gun.

Chris

 

[MrO17]

For the rings inside the cylinder i put cotton balls in each cylinder and soak with Hoppes. Then i chuck a 45cal bore brush in my electric drill and go at it. Does a great job.

 

[Old TexMex]

Gunzilla?

Gunzilla. Anybody (other than me) use that?

 

[trooplewis]

Gunzilla. Anybody (other than me) use that?

Yep, I use it. Does not smell as nice as Hoppes, but pretty effective.