Best revolver for...

riverman1

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I am planning to build a PPC revolver, on a K frame. Would there be any reason that an older type 5 screw would be more or less desireable than a more modern 3 screw? I have access to an old M&P right now but I keep wondering if I should hold out for a suitable Mod 10 or the like.
 
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Other than the fact that lightning <STRIKE>will</STRIKE> should strike someone who turns a 5-screw into a PPC gun?
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You don't want to project with an old wore out junk gun like that for competition. Send me the old 5 screw and $600.00 and I will send you a pretty much new 38 that you can tune up to your heart's content.
Dan
 
Dan,

That is a very generous offer. I will get in the mail!!!

Seriously though, the old five screw is not in very good shape. I have been looking for a donor for quite some time but they are all either too nice or too expensive, for me to tear down like that
 
I wouldnt have a problem using an old M&P and have, as long as the host gun wasnt a collectable one.
 
It will have a 1" slab side barrel with Wichita rib. I think that will qualify as a heavy barrel.

What I was really wondering about, is the internal differences. Does one type lend its self to a smother action, or are they both equal in that regard?

Thanks for all the responses.
 
The problem with the older M&P's like that, is that changing out parts will become a little more difficult over time, as there are vast differences between a new Model 10 (think they are up to a 10-14 now?!) and that old five screw.

The best advice that I can give you, is obtain the newest model 10 you can find if you are truly going to build it into a race gun for reasons of practicality and servicing.

I would advise obtaining one with the frame mounted firing pin for the reason that it does have a much heavier frame. Will it last longer than a previous frame- I don't know, but it does give more weight. Another factor is, IIRC, the cylinders on these are marginally longer, which might be a consideration.

Another factor on the cylinder, is the fact that the newer ones there are no locating pins on the ejector to fall out and mess with the timing. The newer cylinders all have ejectors that are cut in a way to eliminate the pins. Also, the ejectors aren't fitted to each cylinder (but of course must be fitted to the gun by use of a cutting hand, or each ratchet filed individually). This way, if the ratchets get too worn, just order a new ejector and fit it to the gun- no mess or fuss. If you shoot enough, this will need to be done.
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Probably need a longer hand first, though.

I'm certain I left a lot out, but that is it in a nutshell. I'd suggest looking through one of the places S&W dumps inventory to and find a deal on a new Model 10 of the most current design change.
 
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