best solvents and lube for a polymer frame

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silex69k9

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hey everyone,

i finally found a M&P 40 compact and was wondering in anyone's opinion what would be a good solvent for the gun and what type of lube you guys recommend for lubing the gun?
 
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Blow out with a compressor at 80 PSI.
Hoppes No. 9 for the barrel and metal parts. Gun oil on the rest.
 
Really go with FROG LUBE... It's non toxic, smells good and is safe for all parts of the weapon. A lot of cleaners are to corrosive. I switched about 6 months ago and it's all I use now.
 
I am using Hoppes Elite to clean, and Weapon Shield for lube. I tried Ballistol, but just couldn't stand the smell. It does work extremely well, though.
 
I use Hoppes solvent and lube on my Shield and full size 9mm. The fullsize is a year old and these products work fine for me,


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I recently switched to MPro7 after trying a bunch of other cleaners. It is far and away a more effective cleaner than anything else I've tried. Each time I clean a gun with it that hasn't seen it before, I get an amazing amount of extra **** off the gun. With my full-sized M&P9, it got so much extra **** off compared to the previous cleaner, that the gun actually felt different when I cycled the slide by hand. It felt like I added about an extra $400 to the price of the gun :lol: It really is the only way to go, and that's even before you consider the benefits of low toxicity and minimal smell.

For lube, I've been extremely happy with the Weaponshield products. They're only slightly better performers than other top-tier synthetic oils, but I like their needle applicators better.
 
How would you apply the frog lube to the polymer frame? Heating the frame up with a hair dryer safe? I heard that you are suppose to heat the parts up to around a 100 degrees. Was wondering if this was safe to do on the polymer frame? Im new at this so excuse me if this is a dumb question. Thanks!
 
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I don't heat up the frame. I will just wipe it on with my fingers and wipe it off really good with a microfiber cloth.
 
Ok. I appreciate the feedback. I just ordered some froglube and was a little nervous about the idea of heating the polymer frame up. Thanks
 
compactandsafe said:
Ok. I appreciate the feedback. I just ordered some froglube and was a little nervous about the idea of heating the polymer frame up. Thanks
Click to expand...

It would get hotter sitting in the sun. I wouldn't get carried away with Frog Lube on the polymer handgrip. Not that it would hurt it at all,it will get a "bit" slippery is all. Like Armor-All on a steering wheel...

Frog Lube also makes a bore cleaner that works well too. I use Frog Lube on EVERYTHING. Just follow the instructions and season the metal like it says.
 
Ok. Thanks for the input! Yeah I only plan on putting the froglube on the point of contacts on the polymer frame. I imagine a conceal carry weapon isnt worth to much slippery.lol Do you guys heat the parts up to just a warm touch. I imagine you dont want it super hot but i guess this will all be explained in the directions. Just a little anxious to get this stuff.. lol
 
compactandsafe said:
Ok. Thanks for the input! Yeah I only plan on putting the froglube on the point of contacts on the polymer frame. I imagine a conceal carry weapon isnt worth to much slippery.lol Do you guys heat the parts up to just a warm touch. I imagine you dont want it super hot but i guess this will all be explained in the directions. Just a little anxious to get this stuff.. lol
Click to expand...

You can just use a hair dryer if you want 2. The intial treating of your firearm may seem like alot of work, but its worth it, and you dont have to treat it that often. Great product!!
 
You can slather it on pretty much all the metal and just use a hair dryer you will see it melt onto the surfaces. I use the liquid in the barrel but you could rub it on a patch and run it that way. Let it sit an hour and wipe down. I treated my new fs 9mm twice, Mag's too. Little goes a long way. I enjoyed giving my guns the treatment, nothing to it.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
 
compactandsafe said:
Ok. Thanks for the input! Yeah I only plan on putting the froglube on the point of contacts on the polymer frame. I imagine a conceal carry weapon isnt worth to much slippery.lol Do you guys heat the parts up to just a warm touch. I imagine you dont want it super hot but i guess this will all be explained in the directions. Just a little anxious to get this stuff.. lol
Click to expand...

You want it very hot to the touch. It opens the pours in the metal to help absorb the Frog Lube and cure the metal. Do as the instructions say and you won't have any worries. It works great if you do it right. :D
 
I recently switched to FrogLube and used it for the first time today on a G26. Getting ready to use it on my M&P, but my question is about how long do you hold the hair dryer on the frame? I'm concerned with potentially damaging the plastic frame while heating up the steel internals.
 
The interior of my car gets hotter than any hair dryer and the plastic dash and door panels don't melt. Neither do my CD's. I've used my hairdryer on my M&P and XD's frames with no problems. I would not use a heat gun (generates enough heat to lift tile)... that can get much hotter than a hairdryer. To answer your question; 30-45 seconds should do it.
 
geneticgamer said:
I recently switched to FrogLube and used it for the first time today on a G26. Getting ready to use it on my M&P, but my question is about how long do you hold the hair dryer on the frame? I'm concerned with potentially damaging the plastic frame while heating up the steel internals.
Click to expand...

You just need it warm to the touch. The frog lube will do the rest. That stuff rocks!!!
 
The wife picked me up some SEAL 1 CLP PLUS a few weeks ago this stuff is in a plastic 4oz bottle and is bright orange in color it's in gel form very easy to use "comes in past form too, also on pre soaked patches and cloth too".. Must say it's the slickest stuff I ever tried.. it improved everything I put it on including the trigger on my M&P .45 and you know how noisy and gritty they are out of the box.. You can check it out at seal1.net

I have use Hoppe's bore solvent and hoppe's gun oil for 35 plus years without issues as far as rust and wear goes but if you want or need something to slick up a action or slide i use this .. They claim it will increase velocity too when used to treat the bore.. and after 3 treatments you can do away with using another cleaner or bore solvent as everything will just wipe away with a little Seal1 on a cloth or patch..I have as of yet to treat the hole gun so far "I'm old school" but I do like it for a few things.. George

Hey if anyone else tried this stuff let me know what you think of it..
 
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It's the plastic like lower grip part of the gun that the steel frame fit's into on the M&P's and others.. Polymer is a strong and rugged space age kind of plastic like supstence.. I say that because it's not plactic. It's better! George
 
For solvent, does anyone else use cheap carb cleaner on metal parts?
I know a guy that has used it on his glocks for years. He said the glock poly frames are made better than most and it doesn't hurt them. His guns shoot fine and he's been using it for a while on his 8 or 10 glocks.
And its CHEAP!! Lol

Thoughts on usin this for the M&P line?
 
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