Best weed , grass and brush killer concentrate ( UPDATE post 51 )

[Greyman50]

Goats work Very well, lol.

 

[Jimbo41]

I have an earned PhD in pesticide biochemistry and spent my entire career in the crop protection field

How to nuke everything is too easy, can you give us a solution for eliminating POA Trivialis in tall fescue?

 

[SMSgt]

Anything in .45 caliber or larger.

 

[TXBryan]

I just heard that DEF fluid (Diesel Exhaust Fluid) would kill vegetation too. It's active ingredient is 32.5% high-purity synthetic urea. It's only about $7 per gallon and supposed to be relatively toxic free. Has anyone else heard of using DEF fluid? I was thinking about giving it a shot and see if it works.

I will absolutely guarantee you DEF is more environmentally harmful than any currently labeled herbicide. It is, in fact, a violation of federal law, and likely your state too, to use any product as a herbicide that does not possess an EPA approval for that purpose. DEF, and any other homemade herbicide plucked from the internet or a magazine, does not possess such approval. Said approval means a product has been rigorously tested and is not deemed an environmental hazard to non-target organisms - like your dog, children, butterflies, birds, bunnies, earthworms, or whatever. On top of that urea is a great nitrogen fertilizer. Just what your your weeds are looking for.

Bryan

 

[TXBryan]

How to nuke everything is too easy, can you give us a solution for eliminating POA Trivialis in tall fescue?

Great question Jimbo41. Nothing more difficult than controlling grass weeds in a grass crop (or broadleaves in a broadleaf crop). There are no selective herbicides that can do this particular trick for Poa trivilalis in tall fescue. There is a relatively new product, sold under trade name Anuew (active ingredient prohexadione calcium) that suppresses Poa trivialis and may be helpful along with cultural practices. Poa trivialis is a cool season grass, as is tall fescue, but tall fescue does generally better in a bit warmer conditions than Poa trivialis. That makes it even tougher because one might get away with spot spraying several other products if the Poa trivialis was actively growing and the tall fescue relatively dormant from heat or drought. Unfortunately the opposite is more likely to be true as tall fescue tolerates warmer, drier conditions. The very best weed control measure in lawns or patures amount to encouraging and maintaining superb turf growing conditions such that the crop out-competes the weeds. Any good turf scientist will tell you that. Sorry no spray and pray solution to this one. Besides chemical control, cultural and mechanical control measures are quite legitimate and often better solutions - just generally not as easy. Bryan

 

[Jimbo41]

Yeah, I've got a large low spot that stays relatively wet, the POA loves it and I can't really regrade without doing so much that it'll kill the old trees. I'm pretty much at the point of feeding iron to make it darker green and leaving it. BTW, that my lawn guy plugs the yard, spreading the stuff, doesn't help.

Oh, so second question, does aerating really help anything?

 

[Greyman50]

Heard that copper nails in trees work and no dangerous chemicals…

 

[glowe]

Iffen ya get the 51% it does......I use it in my fields for burn down.

I tend to follow directions and use a product that is designed for brush and woody plants if that is what I am trying to kill. Don't find many woody plants in a farm field.

 

[Bald1]

I've had good luck with the Lowe's budget brand. Spectracide or something like that

 

[wood714]

My dad used Crossbow to keep the fence rows cleaned out. He had a sprayer mounted to his 4 wheeler.

"Crossbow weed killer's active ingredients are 2,4-D, butoxyethyl ester (34.4%) and triclopyr, butoxyethyl ester (16.5%). These ingredients work together to control broadleaf weeds and woody plants like ash, poison ivy, and thistles in non-cropland areas such as rangeland, fence rows, and pastures."

 

[Narragansett]

No GOATS!!!

I have been down that road before.

 

[mtgianni]

Most of the horror stories about Glysophate were from people who sprayed 40+ hours a week and didn't own a pair of gloves. Use common sense and bib overalls that get taken off when you're finished. Leave them in direct sunlight for 12 hours before washing them.

 

[old tanker]

No GOATS!!!

I have been down that road before.

Afghanistan??

 

[Rule3]

For the OP try a brush killer like Triclopyr 8.8%
There are many brands, found in many stores

ferti-lome | Hi-Yield | Natural Guard | Local Solutions for Local Problems

 

[TXBryan]

Yeah, I've got a large low spot that stays relatively wet, the POA loves it and I can't really regrade without doing so much that it'll kill the old trees. I'm pretty much at the point of feeding iron to make it darker green and leaving it. BTW, that my lawn guy plugs the yard, spreading the stuff, doesn't help.

Oh, so second question, does aerating really help anything?

Oh boy, plugging does, in fact, help spread your problem just as you say. If your lawn/pasture is wet then aeration is likely of some benefit to assist in surface drainage but otherwise it's not generally recommended - but it does little harm either unless your spreading problem weeds and weed seeds around. Aeration is sometimes recommended for compacted soils and the best way to counter compacted soil is not to compact it in the first place.

Compaction can occur because the soil is worked when it's too moist for seedbed preparation or by driving heavy implements across it repeatedly or deriving over the area when the soil to too moist. Avoid that and compaction shouldn't be a problem. Permanent crops, like turf or pasture grasses or mix, generally counter compaction naturally by way of their relatively extensive root systems (compared to row crops) and the fact that as permanent crops you're not working the soil very often.

Sounds like "tolerance" may be your best bet and you're about ready to make the best of it. Good luck!

Bryan

 

[Narragansett]

OK, 2 hours in the yard today. I took everybody's ( almost) suggestion. I mixed a cocktail. Some old Roundup with glysophate, new roundup Ivy and brush killer, D-2-4, white
vinegar, salt, Epsom salt and dawn dish detergent. Then I hit most of them. They should be brown by 5:00 PM

 

[Rule3]

OK, 2 hours in the yard today. I took everybody's ( almost) suggestion. I mixed a cocktail. Some old Roundup with glysophate, new roundup Ivy and brush killer, D-2-4, white
vinegar, salt, Epsom salt and dawn dish detergent. Then I hit most of them. They should be brown by 5:00 PM

Be careful mixing different products. There really is no need to due so.You may counteract one with the other,
You can mix glyphosate with triclopyr

One Herbicide Mix to Do It All (Almost)

Using a mixture of the herbicides glyphosate and triclopyr can provide a broadly effective and low-risk treatment for invasive plant species.

extension.psu.edu

 

[TXBryan]

Be careful mixing different products. There really is no need to due so.You may counteract one with the other,
You can mix glyphosate with triclopyr

One Herbicide Mix to Do It All (Almost)

Using a mixture of the herbicides glyphosate and triclopyr can provide a broadly effective and low-risk treatment for invasive plant species.

extension.psu.edu

What Rule3 said. Mixing systemic products with those that work on contact wastes the systemic products. Vinegar, salt, Dawn, will all provide surface damage to the leaves, which will in turn, prevent the uptake and translocation of the glyphosate and the 2,4-D. I wouldn't even suggest mixing glyphosate and 2,4-D as they can prove antagonistic in many species of plants.

2,4-D for woody and brushy weeds, especially if they are not in full sun all day long, and, glyphosate for general use in full sunshine. Glyphosate will have a fair amount of activity on grass and 2,4-D will not. Both glyphosate and 2,4-D will takes several days to exhibit activity because they are both systemic, moving around all over the interior of the plant, and they work slowly - but very efficiently. 2,4-D mimics "auxin" which is a category of naturally occurring plant growth hormones, causing excessive growth characterized by twisting and curling before the browning (necrosis) shows up. Glyphosate mimics amino acids and get used in protein synthesis by the plant and that doesn't work out very well. Glyphosate is characterized by activity that may take many days to notice but on the bright side the plants stop actively growing within hours. Susceptible plants generally show some interesting effects to 2,4-D with a couple hours to a day or two.

Anything that damages the leaf surface, like soap, salt, diesel fuel, etc. will delay or prevent the uptake and translocation of a systemic herbicide. You may get lucky or you may experience quick activity and leaf loss only to see it all come back. I'm pulling for you!

Bryan

 

[Narragansett]

I know I would die if I ingested that mix

 

[jeffrefrig]

One thread"s title starts out "Best weed....", another says "Light 'em up"! Peaked my interest for a minute! Old memories.
Seriously, yesterday I decided I'm going to rent one of those roofers' flame throwers for the weeds that keep coming back in my driveway.

 

[Narragansett]

Well I did 80% of what needed doing. Only a few look like they are terminally ill. Others look like they have been fertilized

 

[TXBryan]

It's possible you got enough of the systemic herbicides in to do their job. Be patient.

Bryan

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

I worked for a company that made all sorts of weed/brush killers and one was invented specifically for woody brush/grass/weed/etc. and it is still on the market. It is especially good for poison oak and ivy. Walmart sells it online as well as many retailers where you live.

I agree that Roundup is on its way out. Problem with that product was that it was invented as a grass and weed killer and reformulated then sold as a brush killer, but does not work as well as products originally designed as brush killers.

Roundup has always been listed as a weed killer..........Not brush..........2-4-D is for brush/small trees..........Problem with Roundup is most people buy the CHEAP low % mix..........Read the pamplet that comes on the good stuff.........It's definately NOT on the way out with us farmers.

 

[bamashooter]

What is 2-4D ?

Broadleaf kiiler.

 

[bamashooter]

Roundup has always been listed as a weed killer..........Not brush..........2-4-D is for brush/small trees..........Problem with Roundup is most people buy the CHEAP low % mix..........Read the pamplet that comes on the good stuff.........It's definately NOT on the way out with us farmers.

Round-up comes in assorted mixes, to include their brush-killer mix.

 

[Smoke]

I have weeds, grass, poison ivy, blackberry and other vegetation vermin to kill.

What is the best concentrate to mix in a sprayer?