Best weight for rebound spring for a J

[HiCap]

The factory rebound spring is reportedly 19#. To lighten the pull, what do you folks suggest? I have a Wolff pack (pun intended) of 12# to 18# springs.

HiCap

 

[dubhelix]

.

All of my J Frames have factory stock spring sets. They are all for defensive applications, and the smooth but heavy trigger pull is, in my opinion, perfect for that application. I like the strong, satisfying snap and brisk trigger return on a stock J Frame, particularly on an older centennial. I have an Apex spring kit in a box, somewhere. PM me if you want it.

 

[snubbiefan]

Likely more of a matter-of-taste.I know some people do not like the weaker springs, but I shoot 13's in my J's. In the 317....ain't got much of a choice. The TP on the smaller 22's need all the help they can get to lighten the load.

 

[Martya]

I had no real issue with my 642 trigger weight, since this is a SD weapon not a bull's eye weapon. It is quite stout at 18-19#, but sending 25 or 30 rounds down range was not that big of a deal with me; however my wife had a tough time even with 2 fingers pulling the trigger more than a couple of times.

According to Wolff, the factory rebound spring is 18-lb, and the hammer spring is 8.5-lb.

I ordered directly from Wolff Spring, a PA company!

16670 S&W RP REBOUND SPRING 11-15 ASSMT PAK Pak of 5
23808 S&W RP HAMMER SPRING 8LB PAK of 1

The Rebound Springs "Reduced Power" baggie has 11-lb, 12-lb, 13-lb, 14-lb, and 15-lb.

I chose the 12-lb rebound spring, installed it and the 8-lb hammer spring both just two days ago. I don't have a meter, but I would estimate the trigger pull is reduced about 1/3, so that makes it 12-13-lb. Wife dry-fired several times and she said it was much better.

It is still a stout pull, still much heavier than my 13-1, which I believe is OEM (just worn smooth). I feel safe carrying it like the pocket firearm it is, but it is in the safe until I can get to the range to test it with several brands of bullets. Seems folks are split as to whether this is a good idea. I did it because my wife needed it. I won't use it until it is tested.

Pretty good how-to video here
Part 1

and here
Part 2

Another S&W forum posting with pro / con comments about spring replacement.

 

[snubbiefan]

Which is precisely why I have 13-pound rebound and 9-pound hammer springs in all of mine....so the wife can shoot any of them much easier. I steer-clear of what I may consider hard primers. The magnum shooters may have issues with FTF and magnum primers, but I never have with any 38-special commercial, or reloaded ammo I have used. I have had one 22-dud from a 317, but that particular bullet was also a dud in another gun....just a manufactured dud.

 

[bronco45]

I use the Wolff #13 Trigger rebound spring in all my Js. I have trouble with the factory 18-19lb'er stacking and presenting a binding sensation when shooting DA slow fire.

All my Js except 1 are Centennial models of some type.

 

[cjw3]

I tried the 13# rebound spring in mine along with the 8# hammer spring. I found that occasionally I would find myself pulling again just barely before it reset....just a little light. I put in the 15# and it works fine.

I use a hand exercizer to strengthen trigger finger (and everything else). I prefer that method to lightening springs excessively, but a moderate reduction in the rebound spring along with a conservative trigger job goes a long way to making a J frame a little more user friendly.

It is really a trial and error thing, so you will just have to work with it to find what works best for you.

 

[Gearhead Jim]

My 340PD had a trigger job by a S&W tech that was done "off the record." In addition to polishing, he put in a lighter rebound spring one year, then a year later he also cut a little off the hammer spring.

For the last few years I've had a Wolf 14 lb rebound spring and 8 lb hammer spring, they seem about equal to what the tech had done. I've put probably a thousand rds of mixed reloads, WWB 130 ball, and Speer 135 +P. No malfunctions at all. But my 340SS with the same springs would occasionally fail to return the trigger. Lots of testing required to be sure.

 

[Martya]

Just a followup to my earlier post above about installing Wolff springs:

I chose the 12-lb rebound spring, installed it and the 8-lb hammer spring both just two days ago. I don't have a meter, but I would estimate the trigger pull is reduced about 1/3, so that makes it 12-13-lb. Wife dry-fired several times and she said it was much better.

I took my 642 to the range for a quick test. Wolff suggests rapid fire tests at the range first to see if anything jams. There is some discussions that reducing spring weights can cause some hard-primer rounds to misfire, or the gun to not cycle properly. I don't know what a hard primer looks like or who uses them or soft primers. I took what I have to the range.

I shot 10 (2 cylinder loads) each:
Fiocchi 130 gr. FMJ
Remington UMC 130 gr. MC
Federal 158 gr. LRN
Winchester White box 125 gr. +P JHP

This was my first time 'rapid-firing' all 5 shots at once, so while I did aim at the target I was more interested in reliable discharges. I had no issues, the cylinder went around and stopped at the right time, and the trigger reset just fine, so I consider my 642 still a reliable SD carry firearm for now.

Now I have to get Sally to the range to try it out, and I need to get a few more rounds down range, sort of a second, verification test - not that I need an excuse to go to the range...

 

[Deltam]

Interesting thread. I have a 642 Airweight. I'm old enough, and arthritic enough that the heavy trigger pull causes finger pain after 5-7 shots making practice harder and causing a flinch.

I've worked on a few of my guns with little parts before and plan to get one of the Wolff kits.

 

[OLDSTER]

In my 642; 13# rebound and 8# hammer. Great combination and completely reliable

 

[gnystrom]

I have Wolff kits in all my snubbies and found the 14# rebound spring to best suit my needs.

 

[Wee Hooker]

In my experience, the right weight of the rebound spring, is somewhat driven by the smoothness of the action I'm starting with.
Consequently, I'll go with 14-15# springs if they are just to be dumped in with no other work. I'll go with a 12-13# when I polish the internals as the spring is installed.

I almost never lighten the hammer spring on a defensive revolver.

 

[sdb321]

I had a master gun smith do a action job on all three of "our" smiths. He doesn't change the springs. The two "J" frames are 10 pound pulls and the SSR is 9 pounds 13 ounces DA. He recommends Federal ammo / Federal primers in his "tuned" revolvers.

 

[Deltam]

I had a master gun smith do a action job on all three of "our" smiths. He doesn't change the springs. The two "J" frames are 10 pound pulls and the SSR is 9 pounds 13 ounces DA. He recommends Federal ammo / Federal primers in his "tuned" revolvers.

Since I reload, I've found Federal to have the softest, most likely to shoot primers. If I can get them at the same price as others I use them. I bought 10k each small pistol and small rifle, 5k large pistol and 5k large rifle primers during the great reloading component shortage a few years ago. These were CCI. It will take me a while to work through these.

 

[Bill In Texas]

I've not tried the Wolff springs in my j frames. I have used them in my shotgun with success.

Two of my "j's" have the Apex spring kits in them and I'm very happy with the results. DA pull is in the 8 lb range and smooth. The SA in both is light, 3lbs in my Model 60 and 1.5lbs in my 637, probably because some polishing was done, ( I didn't install the kit in this one). I did bob the hammer spur on the 637 so it would be more difficult to fire SA.

I've never had a FTF with factory ammo in either gun.

 

[mgriffin]

I have a 442. I'm using a #11 lb. rebound spring and 9Lb. hammer spring. I had a 8lb. hammer spring in it but had a few light strikes so went to the 9lb. My light strikes were with Herter and Fiocchi ammo. Federal/American eagle is fine. Also my carry ammo, Gold Dot 135 gr. +p had no light strikes.