Beware Kirkland Batteries

[swsig]

Today I had to change the batteries on my Stack-On electronic car safe. When I pulled out the old ones, I found that two of the four had leaked badly, and had severely corroded the contacts. All four were Kirkland batteries. They had been in the safe less than two years, and all had a 2023 expiration date, so they were fairly new when installed. It took me over an hour of cleaning and filing before the contacts were clean enough to work with the new batteries (Energizers!). Out of curiosity, I did a web search of user reviews (on Amazon, Costco, and Consumer Reports) of Kirkland batteries, and found them to be almost uniformly negative. Most complained about high rates of leakage. Bottom line is that if you have any of these batteries in items that you value, toss them now, and replace them with a better brand. And prepare to do some cleaning and filing.

 

[Jinglebob]

I had the same thing happen to my game cam using off-brand batteries. Energizers are all I use now. They may be more expensive but they save a lot of cleaning after the cheap ones leak.

 

[Rivoak01]

I had the same thing happen to my game cam using off-brand batteries. Energizers are all I use now. They may be more expensive but they save a lot of cleaning after the cheap ones leak.

Buy the Duracell copper top line. I hVe had Energizers leak before.


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[Squarebutt]

I've had two big Maglites ruined by Duracell D cells leaking.

 

[gunnails]

Lithium batteries are less inclined to leak. Alkaline batteries have a chemical reaction of some sort as they discharge that creates a gas of some sort which in turn ruptures the batteries and then they leak.

A light acid like white vinegar will help clean up the mess on the terminals.

 

[hoc9sw]

I've had two big Maglites ruined by Duracell D cells leaking.

Same here, but I've called in to Duracell customer service. They sent a padded envelope to return the damaged lights, and sent me a check for them.

Key point is that the batteries have to be within their "use by" date.

 

[Fishinfool]

Between flashlights, cameras, flash guns, etc., I have used a lot of alkaline batteries. I have had quite a few problems with Duracells leaking well before their expiration date. Years ago I switched to Energisers, and have not had any issues since.

Years ago, I worked security at the Duracell plant in Bethel, CT. They had huge bins full of damaged electronics, including many Maglite flashlights. We used to go thru the flashlights, pick out the decent ones, clean them up. I passed out many for free to fellow security guys, and later to guys at the SP Troop I was assigned.

Larry

 

[Fishslayer]

I bought one of their huge packs & every one I tested was dead out of the pack. Never touched 'em again.

 

[JayCeeNC]

I use Energizer Ultimate Lithium (less leak prone) in AA and AAA and Panasonic Eneloop Rechargeables (Nickel-Metal Hydride) in AA and AAA.

 

[BC38]

I've had two big Maglites ruined by Duracell D cells leaking.

I just bought two Maglights at a garage sale this past weekend. A two D-cell and a three D-cell. Got 'em for $2 apiece. Both had Duracell copper tops in them. The three cell had one leaking battery that was seriously stuck. Took a bit of work to get it out, and a piece of the battery's casing was left behind stuck to the inner wall. I managed to scrape it out with a rod.

I put new batteries in them and they both worked perfectly. I stopped by Ace hardware to buy some more batteries (I didn't have enough to load them both up at the same time) and got a couple of Dorcy brand LED bulbs to upgrade them. The new bulbs were $5 apiece but I was able to use a $7 off coupon that was about to expire - so the bulbs ended up costing me $1.50 each.

So for a grand total of $3.50 each I have two working LED Maglights. One of my better garage sale scores lately.

I've had the Kirkland batteries leak in my car's gunvault too - even though they were still holding a charge. Any battery will leak if it sits a while after it goes dead. The cheapo Kirkland batteries are the only ones I've ever seen leak before they even went dead. I don't use them for anything consider to be of any real value anymore.

 

[bearfoot]

for some reason i checked the small safe, uses a key and batteries. just found the keys after 1 1/2 years, deceided to check the batteries for some reason, 2 were leaking. left the key in the lock, cleaned the battery compartment, just haven't put the batteries back in. only battery i ever noticed never leaking is a 9 volt. any thoughts on why the 9 volt don't leak, they just go dead?

 

[BC38]

for some reason i checked the small safe, uses a key and batteries. just found the keys after 1 1/2 years, deceided to check the batteries for some reason, 2 were leaking. left the key in the lock, cleaned the battery compartment, just haven't put the batteries back in. only battery i ever noticed never leaking is a 9 volt. any thoughts on why the 9 volt don't leak, they just go dead?

Ever open up a 9 volt? I have. Know what's inside? Six of the AAAA size batteries connected in series. So even if the inner cells leak you still have the outer shell to contain the leaking chemicals. If you leave a dead one lying around long enough, eventually it will corrode through the outer casing and leak - it just takes a lot longer.

 

[BigBoy99]

My rule of thumb, If batteries (usual a never heard of brand) are include with the device, replace them with a brand name battery right from the start. Solves a lot of problems down the road.

 

[BAM-BAM]

IIRC "Kirkland" are Aldi's house brand.......most of Aldi' 'stuff" in name brand products produced for Aldi to sell under there house 'brand name"

I've had good luck with their stuff and usually stock up around Christmas..... big sales on batteries....

As a general rule ( for the past decade or so) if an item isn't getting used daily or weekly...... I'll keep the batteries with but not in the devise.... example flashlights will have the batteries rubber banded to the outside.

I always have a single AAA flashlight in my pocket..... so I've got a light to "load" a bigger light or other device if we lose power.

 

[venomballistics]

Hate to bust your moxie, but I'm going to bust your moxie and tell you there's a problem created when you abrade battery contacts.
The thin nickle plating isn't there for looks.

So ... Blah blah blah chemistry and physics frustration.
If it's important enough to fix replace the contacts.
You should find something on this page

Battery Holders, Clips, Contacts | Battery Products | DigiKey

 

[venomballistics]

Ever open up a 9 volt? I have. Know what's inside? Six of the AAAA size batteries connected in series. So even if the inner cells leak you still have the outer shell to contain the leaking chemicals. If you leave a dead one lying around long enough, eventually it will corrode through the outer casing and leak - it just takes a lot longer.

Yup, but not all of the discharge is liquid creeping crud. The gassious emmisions also wreck stuff

 

[dr. mordo]

I've used many cheap batteries over the years, but I had very bad problems with Kirkland (Costco) batteries and tossed them all.

Also, Kirkland Gin is incredibly bad.

 

[yeti]

Thanks for the heads up on those because we just got a fat pack of those in AA. Will pony up and get Duracells or Energizers instead.

Short battery life on a budget battery is one thing, but improperly sealed cheap cases leaking and damaging/destroying electronics is not acceptable. I would expect to find this kind of thing inside neglected items, but it shouldn't occur within dated life inside a temperature controlled area.

 

[yeti]

Hate to bust your moxie, but I'm going to bust your moxie and tell you there's a problem created when you abrade battery contacts.
The thin nickle plating isn't there for looks.

How about any of the popular methods to clean em up rather than replace?
* Vinegar on a Qtip
* Pencil eraser
* Baking soda paste

I have used all of these at some time or another. Effective or is replacing the contact really the only way?

 

[venomballistics]

How about any of the popular methods to clean em up rather than replace?
* Vinegar on a Qtip
* Pencil eraser
* Baking soda paste

I have used all of these at some time or another. Effective or is replacing the contact really the only way?

once that plating is compromised ... yeah.
the gaseous emissions react with the exposed metals to form dielectric compounds over time.
many may have observed the need to clean contacts constantly after a leakage event ... that's why.

If the device has value, its worth learning to solder and replace these things.