BG 2.0 with MAJOR problems

this firearm sounds like a kit gun thats assembled, it might work as is or you might have to take it to the range find out what doesn't work. Then you can take it apart, see if you do this or that you might get it to work with some voodoo. if not send it in and hope for the best.
Ill stick to my giant, heavy pcr that goes bang every time I pull the trigger or my shield that also has been 100%.
 
I and a friend had this same problem, so I used a 10mm carbide impregnated rubber Dremel bit to hone the chamber. Not one problem since.

It is disturbing to know that a person who buys a "2024 Handgun of the Year", designed and marketed to be a self-defense pocket carry, manufactured by a legendary firearm manufacturer, and that person has to "modify and rebuild" the handgun to get it in a condition to properly and safely use it. :eek:
 
If it's striker fired can't you remove the slide, remove the recoil spring/guide/barrel and observe striker movement? Even "feel" it a bit?

Turn the slide over, use your finger to pull the striker to the rear and feel for any drag/catching.

Then push the striker block down, look at the firing pin hole in the breech face of the slide and use your finger to push the striker forward and see if it come through the breech face like it should while feeling for any drag/catching on debris/crud.

Before I took one apart (like you seem to have to do with the BG 2.0) I'd take the slide off, remove the RSA and barrel, turn it muzzle end up and use some spray bore cleaner with the little tube/straw that is usually taped to the side of the can to blow bore cleaner towards the rear of the striker assembly/slide by placing the exit end of the tube/straw over the firing pin hole. Just be sure to wear some eye protection and put an old towel/cloth under the back end. You might even be able to see the crud you blow loose/out of the striker channel/assembly.

Good luck with it.

This process reads like a good idea before having to disassemble the firing pin from the channel. It's my understanding that firing pin and channel are to be clean and dry, no lubrication. If I were to try that cleaning, Hoppes No. 9 may leave residue. I'd prefer a non-residue bore cleaner or solvent. Does anyone have of favorite?
 
This process reads like a good idea before having to disassemble the firing pin from the channel. It's my understanding that firing pin and channel are to be clean and dry, no lubrication. If I were to try that cleaning, Hoppes No. 9 may leave residue. I'd prefer a non-residue bore cleaner or solvent. Does anyone have of favorite?

I use CRC MAF spray cleaner found in auto parts stores. The label says safe for plastics.
 
It is disturbing to know that a person who buys a "2024 Handgun of the Year", designed and marketed to be a self-defense pocket carry, manufactured by a legendary firearm manufacturer, and that person has to "modify and rebuild" the handgun to get it in a condition to properly and safely use it. :eek:

If it has any moving parts it will fail. If it has any moving parts and S&W builds it today the odds go up significantly. But then that's no different than Taurus or Ruger. It's the new business model that's sweeping the firearms industry in the US.

I just got a new Taurus 685 given to me as a replacement for a model 85 and I'm almost afraid to shoot it. I got it about 3 months ago and put it in the back of the safe. I'm not a yuge Taurus fan.

I promise to shoot it sometime this year and report back.
 
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I just got a new Taurus 685 given to me as a replacement for a model 85 and I'm almost afraid to shoot it. I got it about 3 months ago and put it in the back of the safe. I'm not a yuge Taurus fan.
I promise to shoot it sometime this year and report back.

Use your weak hand with a well padded glove.
 
This process reads like a good idea before having to disassemble the firing pin from the channel. It's my understanding that firing pin and channel are to be clean and dry, no lubrication. If I were to try that cleaning, Hoppes No. 9 may leave residue. I'd prefer a non-residue bore cleaner or solvent. Does anyone have of favorite?

I like this one!
Lucas Oil Extreme Duty Gun Cleaner 11oz
 
I've never shot aluminum or steel case ammo in anything I own. I don't have a Bodyguard 2.0 but my M&P Bodyguard 1.0 and my P365 380 have functioned without any problem whatsoever with Blazer Brass Brass Case 95 grain 380 range ammo. Just my experience. Here's the manufacturer's link but you can find it much cheaper if you look around and buy in bulk:

Buy Blazer Brass 380 Auto Ammo 95 | 5202

I have a couple of Makarovs, Bulgarian and Russian in 9x18. They eat anything including steel case ammo. The guns are totally reliable, rugged and simple. Sounds like just the opposite of the BG 2.0 nightmare you guys have been posting. I have a couple of .380's, a CZ-83 and a Glock 42. Both are extremely reliable.
 
I’ve been researching the general topic of Reliable And Trustworthy - I’ll call it RAT - of a defense carry handgun. The “testing” to get to RAT varies greatly.

Sig Sauer publishes a document titled Maintenance Schedule for the Sig P365 Micro. It lists every part by number in an exploded diagram, description, qty, and REPLACE @ RDs.

Most of the parts are at 20,000 rounds, with 5 parts at 10,000 rounds, and only one part at 5,000 rounds – the Recoil Spring Guide Assembly. There also some “Notes” about inspection, signs of wear, or damage.

My thinking is that if Sig recommends replacing the guide rod spring assembly at 5,000, my CC or EDC will most likely not have more than 2500 rounds through it in its entire life as my carry defense handgun. If I need advanced practice and training, I will buy duplicate and use it.

Regarding the number of rounds to get to RAT for defense carry, one expert and S&W armorer, said generally about 200 rounds with zero malfunctions is adequate for his RAT handgun. There are obviously some variables on which carry gun is being evaluated. A military handgun will most likely have a documented history of RAT. A newly designed handgun by a newer manufacturer may require more testing rounds.

Another handgun listed in that document is the Sig Sauer P22X. Most REPLACE@RDs of parts are 50,000, some 20,000, and 3 parts at 5,000 rounds.

I read a short thread here that indicated there is no known Maintenance Schedule for any S&W firearms. Would that information be helpful or desired?

In my semiconductor days, there was something commonly discussed among the design and application engineers regarding reliability called MTTF.(Mean Time To Failure) and MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures). To use the MTTF measurement as NRBF (Number of Rounds Before Failure), what is the likely number, predicted number, or known number through testing, of rounds before my S&W Body Guard 2.0 handgun fails? Not ammo or environment induced, but simply a malfunction of the gun or magazine.

What do the gunsmiths, armorers, self-identified experts, instructors and trainers, other highly experienced gun owners say about how many rounds with no failures do they want before they will “certify” their carry defense handgun is a RAT weapon?

Are those reasonable and fair questions?
 
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Great questions.
It would be very good to know a specific RAT maintenance for our firearms. But even the information you just posted can be helpful for thinking about when to replace parts. So thank you for that.

Some say that you need 300 rounds through a firearm before it is considered reliable. So they shoot 300 round thinking they are good and never know that the slide return spring assemble is rated to be replaced at 275 round. Or that the take down lever clip spring needs to be replaced every few times you remove it. Or the...........
 
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I have been eyeing a Sig 365.
It is beautiful and seems about as reliable as a Glock 17.

The size of the Bodyguard is what makes it sooo useful. It makes the Sig seem large......at least in some carry scenarios, for some people.

I have owned multiple Colt 380's, multiple Kahr 380's, a Walther 380 and 3 models of S&W 380's. My samples all have or had trouble being reliable. Except the muchly undesirable Sigma SW .380 which is very reliable until the pot met slide cracks. My M&P 380 is reliable but I watch the takedown pin spring. My Bodyguard 2.0 is 100 % except for the 3rd round hanging up the follower...IF I am careless in how I how I load it.

That's my 2 cents.
 
It is disturbing to know that a person who buys a "2024 Handgun of the Year", designed and marketed to be a self-defense pocket carry, manufactured by a legendary firearm manufacturer, and that person has to "modify and rebuild" the handgun to get it in a condition to properly and safely use it. :eek:

Yep at a gun shop a few weeks ago and the guy behind the counter hands me a Bodyguard 2.0 raving about it. And it does feel great in the hand , much more so than my LCP Max. In the old days of Smith and Wesson I probably would have ended up taking it home.

But I had already swore to never buy a new Smith again after my Shield Plus issues which Smith showed no willingness to fix. Reading about the Bodyguard 2.0 issues here is enough for me to stick with the LCP Max for now.
 
Did a very thorough job of cleaning. Nothing out of the ordinary. Then put the gun back together as I typically do. Trigger didn't function. It could be pulled all the way to the trigger stop but didn't engage the firing mechanism. Tried with and without magazine. No trigger action. Took the gun apart and inspected. Nothing out of the ordinary. Put it back together and still no trigger. Discussed with the range officer.

I was just cleaning my BG2 and thinking about this. If the trigger can be pulled all the way back to the trigger stop without engaging the mechanism, you could have an issue with the trigger bar (broken or out of position) or else something is not connecting in the frame or slide. With the slide assembly off the gun, can you see the trigger bar working correctly? Is the protrusion that engages the firing pin safety there and looking normal? Is the tail on the striker still there and looking normal? Does the firing pin safety in the slide work if you push it down? ETA: IF you look at the back of the assembled gun underneath the back plate between the slide and the frame and pull the trigger and dry fire, do you see anything happening. (That appears to be the striker releasing.) Those were just a few things I wondered. I am sure it is by no means an exhaustive list. I'm sorry I don't know all the terminology.
 
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I had two light primer strikes after installing the "aftermarket recoil spring", OEM rate, and found the striker mark was off center of the primer seemingly indicating an out of battery hit. These were first round out of the mag , loaded by slingshot so maybe not a full shot release driving the slide home. Exploring, I then found that i could easily push the slide back a few millimeters and it would not return to battery on its own. Reinstalling the stock spring and it does return to battery on its own, though its VERY easy to nudge it out of battery. Just one guy's anecdote.
 
... Exploring, I then found that i could easily push the slide back a few millimeters and it would not return to battery on its own. Reinstalling the stock spring and it does return to battery on its own, though its VERY easy to nudge it out of battery. Just one guy's anecdote.

That is the same thing I found with Galloway Precision SS -10% guide rod.

Disappointed... It's being returned.
 
Just buy an Sig 365 and you don’t have any of these problems or need any non factory parts although the Wilson grip module is really nice.

I purchased a Sig P365 when they first came out and they had plenty of problems, primer drag breaking strikers being the biggest problem among others. The Bodyguard 2.0 will eventually be cured of it's "teething problems", probably soon. My 365 with the Wilson Combat grip and red dot is now my house and IDPA/USPSA gun and the Bodyguard 2.0 is my EDG. After a few hundred rounds of vetting, I'm confident in it..
 
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