I just finished an interesting barrel project.
Was sent a stainless Python barrel that had been nicely reamed and rifled to 45 caliber, but then some one had hacked it off and hit it with a small grinder. The current owner wanted to be able to mount it on an N frame with a 45 colt cylinder and sent it to me wrapped in some $50 bills.
First I set it up in my mill so I could get the frame end square so I could mount it on true centers
2 light passes with a end mill across the rear face and that was good to go
Then a forcing cone cutter with a pilot to keep it centered for a little bit of a smooth bevel for my jig to fit against
Once mounted in the lathe this way the barrel turns on the center of the bore and I can square up the rear shoulder and get rid of the saw marks.
Ready to thread, I use a Brownells .670-36 die and get it close on an N frame I had apart on my bench. It tightens up a bit before 12 oclock, ON MY FRAME,. Much easier to take a bit off than add or a whole turn when fit to its owners frame
Then a trip back to the mill and a bunch of passes with small mills, finishing with a ¼ “ ball end mill and I have a slot for the ejector rod.
Here it is 4 5/8"
Here it is mounded on a 29-3 frame with a 357 cylinder. The reason for the big gap is the barrel is one turn out and the 357 cylinder is shorter than a 44 mag or 45 colt cylinder. The shank is currently a bit to long for a 44 mag or 45 colt cylinder because the owner will need to fit it for final timing of the barrel line up and barrel to cylinder gap fit on his frame. I just wanted it all to be close.
Was sent a stainless Python barrel that had been nicely reamed and rifled to 45 caliber, but then some one had hacked it off and hit it with a small grinder. The current owner wanted to be able to mount it on an N frame with a 45 colt cylinder and sent it to me wrapped in some $50 bills.
First I set it up in my mill so I could get the frame end square so I could mount it on true centers
2 light passes with a end mill across the rear face and that was good to go
Then a forcing cone cutter with a pilot to keep it centered for a little bit of a smooth bevel for my jig to fit against
Once mounted in the lathe this way the barrel turns on the center of the bore and I can square up the rear shoulder and get rid of the saw marks.
Ready to thread, I use a Brownells .670-36 die and get it close on an N frame I had apart on my bench. It tightens up a bit before 12 oclock, ON MY FRAME,. Much easier to take a bit off than add or a whole turn when fit to its owners frame
Then a trip back to the mill and a bunch of passes with small mills, finishing with a ¼ “ ball end mill and I have a slot for the ejector rod.
Here it is 4 5/8"
Here it is mounded on a 29-3 frame with a 357 cylinder. The reason for the big gap is the barrel is one turn out and the 357 cylinder is shorter than a 44 mag or 45 colt cylinder. The shank is currently a bit to long for a 44 mag or 45 colt cylinder because the owner will need to fit it for final timing of the barrel line up and barrel to cylinder gap fit on his frame. I just wanted it all to be close.
