Bodyguard 380/M&P bodyguard 380 question

Sorry to be late, but, OP, I have had the same question ever since M&P BG380 came out... S&W CS, I think, are playing "dumb" pretending to not understand the inquiry, and then saying something similar to "frame is not for sale" (with assumption it has serial number).
Once the M&P BG380 pics became available, I printed out for both in same scale, put two sheets together, one on top of other, and looked at a light fixture: pin holes were in the same spot, as well as take-down lever, slide stop, and safety lever. I wanted a non-laser one since (if I am not mistaken, original BG380 ads were mentioning something about customize-able grip frame)...
Because S&W are not "cooperating", I began thinking how to fill the void (after laser removal) with some sort of housing which could accept, say, fishing sinkers - to experiment with weighing the front end in attempt to fight the muzzle flip. Another option was to forget the weight, and J-B-Weld the void. Third option is to blow-torch the front and crimp/form nicely...
 
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The frame is the frame-plastic is molded around metal. The unit is not separable. You cannot remove a metal chasis from the plastic and put it into another piece of plastic like some other pistols around because that is not the way this gun is made. That is what S&W is trying to tell you. If you want an M&P without the laser you will have to buy another gun. It ain't that difficult to understand. I didn't want the BG380 with the laser-that's why I waited. ANd I was rewarded with a nice M&P380.
 
CAJUNLAWYER, I've a few remarks to make...

First, there is no need to be a bully. If grip frame and trigger housing were inseparable, and this "fact" was explicitly mentioned (or even hinted to), there would be no problem understanding. But, the reason S&W not even hinted to this is because... see Second below

Second, what I do not understand now is why you take a great length to explain something which is not true. My close examination of an M&P BG380 proved the trigger housing IS removable from the polymer grip frame by driving two pins out, just like on the original BG380. I have found a video (on a different subject) where the guy shows, among other things, how it is done - look at the vid starting at about 7:05
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=MGviBwX0pOY
 
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I took out the 380 BG again yesterday to the range and again it embarrassed me it didn't even hit the target. I floated the sites around trying to find the answer and never did. Emptied magazine cleared weapon and put it back in the lock box. I have no idea what this thing is doing. Back in October I was firing out in the woods at old dead tree with target stapled and did same thing later when clearing area found holes down at root base of tree. Note was not more than 10 feet away when firing. Got any ideas?
 
Resurrected older thread. :)

I never did get around to attending the M&P Bodyguard 380 armorer class (only the Shield class), so I haven't become familiar with the inner workings other than the slide.


I took out the 380 BG again yesterday to the range and again it embarrassed me it didn't even hit the target. I floated the sites around trying to find the answer and never did. Emptied magazine cleared weapon and put it back in the lock box. I have no idea what this thing is doing. Back in October I was firing out in the woods at old dead tree with target stapled and did same thing later when clearing area found holes down at root base of tree. Note was not more than 10 feet away when firing. Got any ideas?

If it were me, the first thing I'd do is slip you a magazine with a dummy round in it, and watch whether you're anticipating the brisk snap of the recoil for the itty bitty .380 plastic pistol. Especially if your hits are all ending up down and off to either side.

The long trigger DA pull, combined with how the little gun fits in your hand, might be coming together to create a "last moment" deflection of the muzzle as you finish the trigger press. Small guns which fit a little awkwardly in someone's hand can sometimes lend themselves to that sort of shooter-induced flinch.

Easiest way to check for this is creating an unexpected "click" instead of a bang (dummy round), so the shooter can feel for themselves what happens to their gun when they aren't being distracted by the muzzle blast and recoil impulse.

Not everyone's hands can easily accommodate and acclimate their grip & trigger technique to the ultra small and thin plastic guns. Kind of the nature of the little beasts, in a way.

let someone else shoot the gun? Hopefully someone who has some more time behind the trigger of the smaller guns?

If it's the gun, then the factory can check it out. If it's you? Then you either figure out how to acclimate yourself to the requirements of the thin little .380, or maybe pick something else for your needs that fits you better. Dunno.
 
S$W Bodyguard .380 frame and slide seperation question.

Not sure I'm correct but here goes anyway. To install the Galloway short trigger parts you have to remove the body (Plastic) from the frame (steel). That requires removing the roll pins etc. Again not knowing how it is put together I'm guessing that that leaves you with a plastic housing to fit over a steel frame. If roll pin holes are in the same location I would think that the two would interchange, but as you said will S&W sell only the plastic frames. In the case of KelTek they sell different color housings so you could change the color daily if it suited you and the only thing KT wants is your money. . Just some random thoughts and possibly not correct. If anyone finds out please post it here.

Yes the frame and slide are separated by removing both roll pins with a small
drift ad hammer.
StratGuy.
 
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