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Got mine 2/14 & it ran fine for about two years when it developed light strikes. I did get it fixed but lost confidence so got the LCP and no more problems.
 
Old cop: Was yours the newer M&P version? You said you got it fixed, what was done to fix it? Enquiring minds (mine) want to know.
I have the 2.0 version (M&P) and have had no issues with it so far.
Light strikes are typically caused by a broken or weak hammer spring or
the firing pin has worn down or the firing pin channel is real dirty or the
ammo used has a hard/recessed primer. Can't think of any others.
Many thousands of these guns have been sold and of those, I would venture to say that only a comparatively small number have had issues. JMO
The LCP is a good gun but if you Google Ruger LCP issues, you have many problems listed on forums and videos. Just sayen.
The M&P 380 has features you can't find on other guns in its class.
Also want to say I have enjoyed your many post over the years. Keep em coming!

Be SAFE and Shoot Often!
 
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Mine was the no laser model and it went to S&W for repair. When I got it back I took it to the range, verified function and I sold it w/full disclosure. My LCP has over 400 rounds w/o a single failire.
 
wnderr: I got mine at Gunbroker for $233. No Tax. No Shipping cost, just the $25 transfer fee at LGS at pickup. Look around. There are some good deals to be found.
As to your question. SOME earlier models had Issues with the mags not staying in the grip. Original mag releases where not metal. The new ones are.
As for the light strike issue that seems to be all over the internet and on this forum, I mentioned above some of the possible reasons. A bad batch of hammer springs that didn't meet design specs found there way into production? This happened with Canik guns and they replaced the springs with stronger ones. Firing pins being to soft, same response. Canik made machined steel ones to fix the problem.
I have searched the internet but can't find any comments on what S&W did to fix the problem in some of the 1.0 guns. They have always sent an explanation of parts replaced or problem found when I sent a gun in.
Glock 42 (380) has reliability issue with some ammo.
Bottom line. If you want one, go ahead and get one! ALL issues (If any) can be resolved. JMO It's a GREAT gun!
P.S. if anyone on this forum has information on the fix for light strikes, please comment on what S&W did to fix the issue. Please state the Model (1.0 or 2.0 M&P). Thanks! Maybe someone can put this issue to rest.

Be SAFE and Shoot Often!
 
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the magazine, American Gunsmith, apparently had an article in the August 2018 issue about the problematic design of the firing pin in the BG. i tried to get a back issue but they do not sell back issues. someone in this forum might have a copy and could explain the deficiencies in the firing pin design. i've had no light strike issues except with Fiocchi ammo.....hard primers. i'll only use Federal. the only 2 upgrades from the original design are the mag release [now is metal....was plastic] and the laser [was Insight and is now Crimson Trace] that i'm aware of. they may have changed the firing pin design. they are good little pistols and i have total confidence in mine. in my opinion they have to be kept clean and well lubed to operate reliably.
 
I need to change the batteries in my BG 380, found the correct ALLEN wrench, got the screw loose (I understand it is "captured") but I cannot get the laser out....HELP.
 
The 1st gen BG380 with the laser had problems with the laser screw backing out and jamming up the action .
I have 2 BG380s. both M&P no laser versions. One from 2015/2018.
Close to 2k rounds between the 2 guns, very few issues, I like them.
The gun gets dirty around 75 rounds, has to be cleaned or will jam.
The mag release in 2015 was plastic. 2018 has the new metal mag release which is a lot more secure and will last longer. I think the springs mag springs & recoil springs in these guns are too weak. I have searched Nurmrich and they have spare springs . I will be ordering some for back ups.
 

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The 1st gen BG380 with the laser had problems with the laser screw backing out and jamming up the action .

I have 2 BG380s. both M&P no laser versions. One from 2015/2018.

Close to 2k rounds between the 2 guns, very few issues, I like them.

The gun gets dirty around 75 rounds, has to be cleaned or will jam.

The mag release in 2015 was plastic. 2018 has the new metal mag release which is a lot more secure and will last longer. I think the springs mag springs & recoil springs in these guns are too weak. I have searched Nurmrich and they have spare springs . I will be ordering some for back ups.



Galloway Precision has 10% increased spring rate mag springs for the BG 380. I got some for mine. They have numerous other goodies for this gun as well.

Bodyguard 380 Performance Parts > Galloway Precision

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
some older BG380's were bad quality.
Lately they have been pretty reliable pistols.
I have 2 . (2015& 2018 M&P no laser models. )
They have been almost perfect.
Only negative=they require frequent cleanings .
 
A little late to the thread, but I have an original BG380 purchased in April 2011, and I have had zero problems with it. The only things I have done to it 1) chose to replace the sights with XS Big Dots, and 2) I got a free replacement laser from S&W after the Insight developed some switch issues (the Crimson Trace is much nicer). It's a bit finicky about what it eats, but that's common with subcompacts, so don't cheap out on ammo. I think the internet can exaggerate problems, in general, about a relatively small number of instances posted on forums.
 
I just had my first problem with my BG.380. S&W sent me my metal mag release button so off to my gunsmith I go,hours later he calls and said he was sending my pistol to the mother-ship because there was a crack in the sear block.OH WELL afta 2500 rounds it was bound to happen.SOoooooo I won't see her for 5-6 weeks.
 
Old cop: Was yours the newer M&P version? You said you got it fixed, what was done to fix it? Enquiring minds (mine) want to know.
I have the 2.0 version (M&P) and have had no issues with it so far.
Light strikes are typically caused by a broken or weak hammer spring or
the firing pin has worn down or the firing pin channel is real dirty or the
ammo used has a hard/recessed primer. Can't think of any others.
Many thousands of these guns have been sold and of those, I would venture to say that only a comparatively small number have had issues. JMO
The LCP is a good gun but if you Google Ruger LCP issues, you have many problems listed on forums and videos. Just sayen.
The M&P 380 has features you can't find on other guns in its class.
Also want to say I have enjoyed your many post over the years. Keep em coming!

Be SAFE and Shoot Often!

I'm on my second one, and both started having light strikes after about 300 rounds. Thorough cleanings have not helped.
 
I just purchased one. It seems to have a bent slide rail (not on the slide but on the body itself). Shoots OK but it is very hard to get the slide off when it hits the bent section of the rail further down. I sent photos to S&W and am waiting to hear back. It looks like a railroad track when the heat makes it buckle. Not good!
 
I'm on my second Bodyguard.
They were bought about 2 years apart.
First one developed light strikes after about 300 rounds.
The one I have been carrying daily ( second one ) started mis-firing last week.
Have not decided on a course of action yet.

Why Smith refuses to address this problem is beyond me.
The little guns are sized perfectly for pocket carry.
 
the magazine, American Gunsmith, apparently had an article in the August 2018 issue about the problematic design of the firing pin in the BG. i tried to get a back issue but they do not sell back issues. someone in this forum might have a copy and could explain the deficiencies in the firing pin design......
The article wasn't specifically on the light strike issue but did cover the issue, while not specifically calling the design at fault. It involved increasing the length of the firing pin cross pin slot by relieving the front of the slot (primer side) 2.5mm. The purpose is to allow more of the rear of the firing pin to protrude so that the hammer is in contact with it for a longer period of time, which should increase the velocity of the firing pin resulting in more force applied to the primer. Lengthening the front of the slot for the firing pin block MIGHT also be necessary. Properly done the rear of the firing pin should protrude toward the hammer (hammer cocked) about 3.5mm whereas it originally protruded about 1mm.

Info from American Gunsmith Magazine August 2018 Sergey Lyalko

I don't guarantee the accuracy of my abbreviated version. I do still have a PDF of the article.
 
The article wasn't specifically on the light strike issue but did cover the issue, while not specifically calling the design at fault. It involved increasing the length of the firing pin cross pin slot by relieving the front of the slot (primer side) 2.5mm. The purpose is to allow more of the rear of the firing pin to protrude so that the hammer is in contact with it for a longer period of time, which should increase the velocity of the firing pin resulting in more force applied to the primer. Lengthening the front of the slot for the firing pin block MIGHT also be necessary. Properly done the rear of the firing pin should protrude toward the hammer (hammer cocked) about 3.5mm whereas it originally protruded about 1mm.

Info from American Gunsmith Magazine August 2018 Sergey Lyalko

I don't guarantee the accuracy of my abbreviated version. I do still have a PDF of the article.

i really appreciate your reply. having worked on quite a few BG's i've always thought the firing pin did not protrude enough for a strong strike. that is reason i use Federal ammo.

again, thank you for posting this info.
 
Thanks for the info. Does anyone have a image showing the comparison of the updated firing pin to the original one? I couldn't find one by searching.
 
Thanks for the info. Does anyone have a image showing the comparison of the updated firing pin to the original one? I couldn't find one by searching.

I don't recall where I found this pic, but I've had it since about the time I bought my BG back in 2017. You can see the new pin is machined to give .008" more forward travel. I'm not really sure which design pin my BG has but I haven't had a single light strike yet.
 

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I don't recall where I found this pic, but I've had it since about the time I bought my BG back in 2017. You can see the new pin is machined to give .008" more forward travel. I'm not really sure which design pin my BG has but I haven't had a single light strike yet.

Thank you very much! This is definitely very interesting.
 
......Info from American Gunsmith Magazine August 2018 Sergey Lyalko......

In reference to the article I gave a partial abbreviated synopsis of, I think this is the authors website. I have absolutely no personal experience with him or his shop. This is not an endorsement. It is only an item of interest as I referenced the article author and mined his article for material:
Rustblue Gunsmithing

A note for clarity. The procedure I gave an abbreviated synopsis of was not described in the article as repairing a factory fault. The procedure was to allow a lighter spring and subsequently a lighter trigger while retaining sufficient firing pin strike force by assuring more force is transferred by the hammer. I would expect that to also help other light strike issues.
 
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