Bought a Model 28-3 Highway Patrolman

AJMBLAZER

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Local gunstore known for nice older stuff, rare stuff, and just neat in general stuff has a 4" Highway Patrolman/Model 28 with adjustable sights for a decent price. Looks to be well used but cared for.

Salesguy was nice but I'm fairly sure mostly uneducated about it. I don't know much about them either but he had my BS meter's needle wavering on the high side as he blathered about it.

Been thinking about a .357 and this one looked nice. I was looking for something that could handle heavy .357 loads all day, every day without trouble and was thinking about a Ruger GP100 or maybe a 686 but this thing felt nice in the hand and I am a fan of older guns with "visual history".

So tell me about them. How to ID them, variances to look for, any issues/problems, and whatever I should know in general please.
 
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They are built like a tank, and still pretty reasonable. Go for it.
 
The 28 is a utility version of the 27..........if you want one (or moer) get them now! The prices for the 28's is going up, 10 years ago you could get them as PD trade ins for next to nothing, but those days are gone.
 
So here's a "please help the uneducated noob" question I have...any vintage of them not up to hot .357 loads or any particular load?

I'm only asking as I'd prefer to not have a gun that "can't be shot with X load".

Will I shoot it every day with hundreds of hot .357 loads?

No.

However I'd like to have a gun that I can pretty well be certain (except for flukes/act of god/just plain ol' bad luck/whatever) that no matter what hot Buffalo Bore load, Elmer Keith style load, or whatever handload my buddy and I cook up the gun will go BANG and ask for more. Likewise whatever plus P "Self Defense" or Hunting load I pickup at a store be it a 110 grain screamer or a 170 grain thumper the gun will handle it just fine.
Hence why I was originally considering a Ruger or one of the newer S&W's known for their durability. That's their current claim to fame.

In reality it'll spend most of it's time shooting .38, .38 plus P, and regular .357 loads. I just like to have beef and the security of knowing it's got the strength and durability to handle the bigger/hotter stuff.
 
There were not a whole lot of options on the M28. Barrel length (4" or 6"), trigger (0.265" serrated or 0.400" smooth), and stocks (standard or target) was about it.

There are some very rare factory nickel M28s, but these are seldom encountered and very pricey. There are probably many more that have an aftermarket nickel job which sellers try to pass off as original.

Four inch M28s seem to be a little more popular right now. These are an excellent choice for someone who wants to do a lot of magnum power level shooting. The six inch barrel may be the best choice for someone who seeks maximum velocities.

Price as always depends on condition. You don't often see these for under $400. At the upper end, I've seen an "as new in box" four inch M28-2 with the asking price of $650 at every local gun show for the past six months, but so far no takers.
 
... However I'd like to have a gun that I can pretty well be certain ... that no matter what hot Buffalo Bore load, Elmer Keith style load, or whatever handload my buddy and I cook up the gun will go BANG and ask for more. Likewise whatever plus P "Self Defense" or Hunting load I pickup at a store be it a 110 grain screamer or a 170 grain thumper the gun will handle it just fine.

Hence why I was originally considering a Ruger or one of the newer S&W's known for their durability. That's their current claim to fame.

In reality it'll spend most of its time shooting .38, .38 plus P, and regular .357 loads. I just like to have beef and the security of knowing it's got the strength and durability to handle the bigger/hotter stuff.
I'm not sure what the difference is between loads you "cook up" and "regular .357 loads". :confused:

I trust you are an intelligent person and know enough to never exceed the maximum loads published by a recognized, reputable, reliable source. Naturally, "some guy on the internet" does not meet these qualifications.

The M28 will handle any load that does not exceed SAAMI specs.
 
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Well, obviously not anything unsafe but I'd like us to start working towards the Keith loads and other "large pills moving fast" recipes.

I just personally dislike how some guns have "fires x fine but avoid y for function/wear/whatever reasons" caveats about ammo.
 
The model 28 is built to take a steady pounding of .357 loads without a hiccup. However, "whatever handload my buddy and I cook up"?? Now that's another story, because just about ANYTHING can be blown up...
 
The Highway Patrolman is an N-Frame. This is the same frame S&W used to build the .44 Magnum, which produces far higher pressures than the .357 Magnum. Obviously handloads can be produced that are way too strong, but absent that you should be able to shoot this revolver for a very , very long time with factory loads or sane handloads without ill-effect.
You don't tell us what vintage this one is. In the yoke it should say M0D-28. Is there a dash after the 28? This will have some effect on value and desirability to a collector.
The HP is a great revolver. I have picked up two M28-2s this year, both 4 inchers. I have an IWB holster on order and look forward to carrying them. Oh, and post a picture if you can. We like pictures.:D
Jim
 
I haven't examined it closely enough yet. I'm resisting the urge to go look it over out of fear that I'm counting my chickens before they're hatched.

I've got some funds coming and am raising some cash and if it happens fast enough I just may go down and look this thing over a lot closer.
 
Short of running over it with an M1A Abrams, the Model 28 will handle just about any .357 Magnum load. The N frame .357 Magnum has been around for 76 years, so it's earned its spurs.

As others have mentioned it's a "plain Jane" version of the Model 27, therefore built to the same specs.

The N frame soaks up recoil better than any L or K frame, or practically any other DA revolver out there.

A good set of stocks which fit your hand, is all that you need.

And, I heartily second those who've mentioned reloading. Never, ever exceed the printed values from the traditional manuals.
 
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I have a 1962 or 63 vintage S&W model 28-2 that was converted to 357/44 Bain & Davis wildcat at some point in its life. Since I got it earlier this year, I have fitted a later 357 cylinder so I now have a "convertible" model. If the N frames will stand up to a 44 magnum that has been necked down to 357 & pushes a bullet out at around 2,200 FPS, I am pretty sure it will hold up to any 38 , +p or 357 loads.

By the way, does anybody know when S&W quit beveling the front edge of the flutes and marking serial numbers on their cylinders? The spare cylinder I have has sharp edges on the flutes and no s/n or assembly numbers, but the chambers are recessed. Thanks, John
 
With the ammo choices you listed "in reality", that M28 will last the rest of your life and your children's, too! Buy it. Just be dang sure the loads you "cook up" fall within SAAMI specs.

Larry
 
I can vouch for the M28's sturdiness.
Back in the mid-70's, I was a young, over-eager new handloader. I got a 6" M28 for the express purpose of using my 'beyond all reason' hot handloads in it. I did not yet own a .44 mag., but determined that I'd have one anyway, just that the hole in the end would be .357!

Never kept up with the number of those sorts of un-wise rounds, but it was in the many hundreds, if not a thousand or more.
It even went through my stages of interest in light bullet/H.V. loads and moved to 'heavy for caliber' cast stuff (I was worshiping at the feet of Elmer Keith about then...) ahead of unhealthy doses of 2400, H110, WW296 and Blue Dot.
The M28, other that becoming a bit smoother, never showed any signs of wear.
(Disclaimer - not advocating doing this to a good revolver, only that in my experience, the M28 withstood the torture well.)
 
So some money is in my hands and I want to spend it.

Can anyone give me the quick and dirty to identifying a Highway Patrolman (pre Model 28?), Model 28, and a Model 28-2?

I assume a pre 28 will have only part of the serial on the crane?
28 will have 28 and 28-2 will have 28-2?
 
The pre 28 will have an assembly number on the crane.The serial number will be on the butt ,the cylinder and a few other places.Highway patrolman will be stamped on the right side of the barrel.
 
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The 4" models seem to be in greater demand and harder to find. The first two M28's I owned were both 6" versions. Later I found a 4" model and got that. For every 4" I see for sale it seems that I find two or three 6" models.
 
Well, got there as soon as they opened this morning and they sold it the other day. Said the guy was super excited to get it.

At $350 so was I. Ugly finish but sound mechanically.

Ran around town and Bud's Gun Shop had a 28-3 4" in decent shape for $479. I liked it. Had $420 in my pocket so I asked if they'd come down. Guy asked management and they said it's new on consignment so they can't negotiate until 30 days has passed since they got it.

I'll go back in a few weeks.

C'est la vie.
 
My first M28-2 4 inch was fed a lot of H-110 loads with 140 to 160 grain jacketed bullets, it worked well until......

I had a top end, but safe load, that the bullets were striking the forcing cone and shaving copper jacket material between the forcing cone and the cylinder. It was as if the forcing cone had lost its dimensions...as in tightened up. It might have been due to a very dirty forcing cone.

Anyhow only about 3 or 5 now over-pressure loads, and they were with flattened primers and stuck cases, and the gun was ruined. It would no longer work properly with any sort of .357 Magnum load. I would get the "sticking cylinder rotation" syndrome without anything apparently causing the hard rotation, no nothing under the ejector star, no nothing hanging between the forcing cone and the cylinder. No indication of anything that would cause a retarded cylinder rotation.

Initially I did have the forcing cone reamed and was told it was under specifications, but I had been shooting it about four years without any problems, then I started having problems with the gun due to the accidental high pressure loads. After reaming the forcing cone the problem still occurred.

Took it back to the same gunsmith who was touted as the "best"...he wasn't. He told me the ejector lugs on the star had been "lengthened" due to the high pressure loads so he filed them down "since they were dragging on the recoil shield and causing my problem."

When I took it out to shoot safe .357 Magnum loads it still bound up. I got rid of it. I have since learned here it might have been "endshake" issues.

Yes, even a N-Frame .357 Magnum can be ruined by too high of a pressure load.

All of the older N-Frames (.357, .41, and .44 Magnum) operated at the same high pressures. Caliber and recoil would not cause problems but the pressures will. Inside the cylinder is a "ledge" that the ejector rod rides upon. High pressure loads "peen" that ledge and cause end-shake.

Metals used in manufacture can be guaranteed to withstand certain pressure loads but after the final manufacture and installation the same metals may exhibit different reactions, as in one cylinder may hold up better than another.

My M29-2 was never fed over-pressure loads but in time it too experienced end-shake which I fixed.

There are many reports here of people who have fired their N-Frames (pick the caliber) a lot and never had a problem.

I do know that when the sport of long-range handgun shooting began there were a lot of S&W .44 Magnums that were being worn out. I have heard that is why S&W did the "upgrade" on the later M29 and 629 versions.

The entire N-Frame can handle a lot of shooting and pressure, except that little metal ledge inside the cylinder that gets peened.

If I wanted a magnum handgun that can handle any top end pressure load, and the occassional mistake of an over-pressure load I would buy a Ruger Blackhawk/Superblackhawk. They ARE tough guns and the design has no weaknesses, unless your loads are too hot and you blow the gun up.

I do not know about any of the other more "modern" magnums such as the Redhawk, etc.

I would suggest you continue to save your dollars and look for a good M28 (and you will find one) and just be careful with your loads.

Good luck.
 
You don't want a -3. That's when they eliminated the barrel pin and counter-bored chambers. Th -2 model is much more desirable.

Or just look for a Model 27 (again, -2 or earlier). If the price difference is only $150 the 27 is twice the gun and a much better value.
 
So what's the pin elimination and the non counter bored chambers do or not do?

Truthfully, they really don't make that much difference. An unpinned barrel is almost as secure as a pinned one. Cylinders really don't NEED to be recessed, case heads are pretty strong nowadays. It's just that P&R revolvers are a product of a time when craftsmanship and attention to detail were more prevalent. Plus, they're just COOL.:cool:
Guess that's why I'm the P&R Fan.:D
Jim
 
Mint 28....

Time somebody posted some HP porn....:)

My newest gun, a mint 28-2 6". Talk about a heavy revolver...

hp2.jpg
 
Does that affect the value much? If I were able to get this -3 for around $400-420 would it still be a good deal?

Sales guy at Bud's seemed extra interested when I told him I had cash in my wallet.
 
You don't want a -3. That's when they eliminated the barrel pin and counter-bored chambers. Th -2 model is much more desirable.

Not correct Frank.

-3 guns were only produced for a very short period before 28's were discontinued.

28-3's are more collectible for this reason.

I have many pre-28's, 28's, 28-2's, and only one 28-3, a 4" gun. I am actively seeking a 28-3 6".

Drew
 
Here is my 4 screw Model 28 (1961). The grips are a little ugly, but I shoot a lot of hot 357s in it and they help my wrist.

My 5" Model 27 is a piece of art, but my 28 may be my favorite 357. It is a tank and will take anything you feed it.
 

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