Brass Sticking in Cylinder

[Bob1950]

After shooting, the empty brass casings are sticking (tightly) in the cylinder chambers of my .357 revolver. This is a used gun that I purchased recently. Is there a really good cleaner (really good) that would be best to use to clean the chambers?

Thanks.

 

[PH-2]

Bob,

Welcome!
You can use some Flitz metal polish on a tight fitting patch to lightly hone the chambers. The idea is to polish, not remove, metal. I would avoid attacking the chambers too aggressively, always remembering that you cannot replace any removed metal.
When you extract the fired cases, turn the barrel up vertically and push the ejector smartly with the palm of your hand.

Mike

 

[shovelwrench]

Any good bore paste and a chamber brush should do the trick..

Are these reloads? Have you been shooting .38s recently without thoroughly cleaning the chamber before shooting .357s?

 

[H Richard]

Since most people shoot 38's in their 357's, most guns will have a build up of carbon residue that grabs hold of a 357 case and makes it hard to extract, and if bad enough makes them hard to load into the chambers. A good soaking with a good solvent, then scrubbing with a bronze "chamber" brush to clean it all out. Depending on how long it has been used with 38's may indicate how much cleaning it will take to fix it.

 

[jepp2]

How "stout" are your loads?

One of the more reliable signs of excessive pressure in revolver loads is brass sticking in the chamber after firing.

 

[dpsix]

Lewis Lead Remover will make the lead go away in chambers and forcing cones.

 

[dfariswheel]

I recommend buying a couple of bronze chamber brushes from Brownell's.
These instantly clean fouling from chambers without any soaking or polishing techniques.

The bronze brushes are not only over sized, they have stiffer bristles than bore brushes to remove hard fouling without damaging the chamber.

BRONZE RIFLE/PISTOL CHAMBER BRUSHES - Brownells

 

[Nemo288]

I recommend buying a couple of bronze chamber brushes from Brownell's.
These instantly clean fouling from chambers without any soaking or polishing techniques.

Yep.

I put some Bore Shine (or other good solvent) on a patch and drape
it over the brush. I chuck the brush on a 12" rod in a hand bat-drill
and carefully revolve the brush in the chamber. The revolver is
mounted in a rest and I hold the cylinder with the left hand hand
and run the bush in and out while running the drill at its lowest
setting with the right hand.
After all the crud is out, I run a patch with some brake cleaner
on it thru the chamber(s). This is the only time I use brake cleaner
on a gun. It de-greases the chambers and dissolves carbon too.
(All my revolvers are stainless).

I have never been a big fan of shooting specials in a magnum
for the reasons stated above. The Special deserves it's own gun.

---
Nemo

 

[MichiganScott]

Lewis Lead Remover will make the lead go away in chambers and forcing cones.

The Lewis is an absolute must for anyone that shoots swaged bullets. It also comes in handy if you shoot hard cast bullets that are improperly sized or pushed too fast.

 

[Bob1950]

Thanks for the feedback and ideas.

 

[Hapworth]

All good replies -- to which I'll add: it might just be your ammo. I had the same thing happen not long back in two different, well-maintained K-frames, but only with a particular batch of American Eagle I was shooting; all other brands, same day, weren't sticking at all.