BREAK FREE CLP

[chief38]

When I purchased my new Sig P365 a few weeks ago I actually read the Manual and they recommend CLP. I fully realize that CLP is just a generic term for cleaner, lubricant and preservative but since I was in a LGS buying some defense ammo I decided to buy a 4oz bottle of the coveted Break Free CLP to try.

The small P365 instructions state that all moving parts should be lightly oiled with the exception of the Striker and Striker Tunnel. I did not want to use a thin product as I normally do (Rig #2 Oil or Remoil) because they are quite thin and migrate where as the Break Free is fairly thick for a liquid. In fact, when my Dad passed away 9 years ago I found a small bottle of CLP in one of his gun boxes and threw it away because it was so thick I though it had gone bad. Now I realize that is just how it is.

I have been using the B-F CLP on the Sig for 2 weeks now and have been pretty happy with it. It seems to clean well and lubricate even better. More importantly it stays where you put it and does not migrate into the Striker Tunnel. While I believe it is a bit too thick for regular gun cleaning on guns that get really dirty shooting lots of Lead bullets, for my P365 that only sees jacketed ammo it might just fit the bill perfectly. This pistol is the only one I don't shoot Lead through and quite honestly even after 200 rounds is not all that dirty.

I'm probably one of the last here to try this stuff and it certainly has been around for a long long time! the other bonus is it has almost no smell at all - which my Wife really likes. So far the Sig is the only gun I've tried it on, but so far I am pretty impressed!

 

[Lonestar57]

I like and use Break Free for gun lube. I use Remoil mainly to clean with and protect regarding gun storage. Gun Lube is like one's underarm deodorant everybody has a favorite and different opinion of what works best for them.

 

[Babysitr]

CLP works for me too, don't really find it better or worse than others. like chief says, the smell is also a factor around here....smells a lot better to me than a lot of our new hand soap! (did I really say that?)

 

[reddog81]

It works just fine for cleaning up my S&W 929 or GP100 after after shooting a couple hundred lead rounds. I have a little bottle, large spray. Bottle and the areasol can. They all work well.

 

[WR Moore]

The do-it-all stuff will actually never clean, lubricate or protect as well as stand alone products. They are, however, a lot handier. YMMV.

Back when I built a lot of 1911s I noticed a tendency of guns lubed with that product (possibly rather than clean them, just slather on more lube) to come back "to get the trigger redone" at the end of the competition season. The problem wasn't the trigger, it was the accumulation of powder residues. The Break Free seemed to gather the stuff in clumps that eventually interfered with clean operation. Kinda like a clumpy sludge in the action works. All returned to normal operation after a good detail strip, cleaning and lubriction. NO, they didn't get billed for a trigger job, just the cleaning.

All that's kind of long way to say that regular, thorough cleaning is still necessary. Personally, I prefer a product known as Dri-Slide. It's a moly solid lubricant in an evaporative carrier. Goes on wet, dries to a dry film lube that doesn't trap and hold particulates.

 

[Eric300]

Personally, I don't subscribe to the 'one product does it all' theory, especially when it comes to firearms maintenance. I use bore cleaner/powder solvent products for removing all the mess left behind from shooting. I also like to mix a little Kroil in with my bore cleaner solvent. Then, a degreaser (like Gun Scrubber) to remove all of the solvent, then a good quality lubricant for internal parts lubrication (my personal favorite is 'Machine Gunners Lube'). For gun storage, I'll use either a light oil of some kind to wipe the firearm with, or, my favorite, G96 (and it smells good, too!).

 

[H Richard]

Been using it since the 80's. I also still use other cleaning products for heavier leading or with rifles to clean the copper from the bore. Mostly Hoppe's #9.

 

[bulletslap]

It is a good enough Cleaner, Lubricant , and Protector.

Very handy to have in the field.

 

[cndrdk]

Also been using it since the 80's, good stuff. I still have a black plastic bottle labeled "Break Free Lubricant-Protectant", apparently does not contain the cleaner solution. However, I did at one time have a bottle of Break Free bore cleaner only.

 

[bub075]

I've used BreakFree for years, since I started in LE in 1991. It was recommended by the firearms instructor, so I bought some and have been using it ever since. Aside from it being thin enough that it runs if you let the gun sit (like an AR propped up in the corner or in the safe), it has always worked out VERY well and I really like it.

Having said that, my wife HATES the smell and it gives her a headache whenever I clean guns. Strangely enough, she LOVES Hoppes and wouldn't have a problem with me wearing it for cologne. I'm almost out of BreakFree and, when I am, I'm going to try Slip 2000 EWL. It's supposed to not have any smell at all and to lube at least as good as the BreakFree, we'll see how it works.

 

[bub075]

Sorry, don't know how I got a double tap.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Break Free works fine. All the Slip2000 products work well, too. I have been using both of those for many years.

 

[robertrwalsh]

Make sure to shake the BreakFree before use.

 

[gwpercle]

Use lightly.... I flooded the action of a J-frame with BF CLP , put it away for an extended time ( a year) and it went gummy inside the lock works.
Also gummed up a K11 Schmidt-Rubin straight pull rifle bolt.
As long as you use it sparingly it's fine....just don't use when a excess amount can congeal. Also had Shooters Choice CLP do the same thing .
I've never had RemOil go gummy on me ...for what that's worth.
Gary

 

[Univibe]

I use Breakfree on all guns. I don't think it's too heavy--too heavy for what?

People spend big bucks for weird gun lubes made out of "organic" materials or some other odd stuff. Not necessary.

Now what I also do is use Breakfree LP. It's even heavier than CLP because it doesn't have the cleaning solvent in it. I use it on the hot parts of the AR-15 because it stays on better.

 

[mauser9]

Is Breakfree good for lead removal from shotgun barrels? Been shooting trap lately and would appreciate hearing what others are using as far as a bore cleaner. Have tried Remington Bore scrubber and Hoppes but is there anything better and really works?

 

[J. R. WEEMS]

Have been using BREAK FREE since I discovered it the '70's. Dont really use it for cleaning as much as a lube and more important rusy preventive.. It has NEVER let me down. Had someone who worked in an armory give me a couple gallons, gave one away but still have one. Shake it up god and it is like new. I do pick up a spray can now and then to spray firearms down and wipe down with a silicone cloth. Every gun I have has it's own. I'd never be without it.

 

[dfariswheel]

Is Breakfree good for lead removal from shotgun barrels? Been shooting trap lately and would appreciate hearing what others are using as far as a bore cleaner. Have tried Remington Bore scrubber and Hoppes but is there anything better and really works?

CLP Breakfree is best as a lubricant and preservative.
For cleaning you're much better off with a dedicated bore solvent. It works faster and cleans better.
CLP Breakfree is best as a field Do-it-all product where you can't carry a lubricant and a bore solvent.
It'll work as a field cleaner until you can get back to your bore solvent but it has no effect on copper fouling and is slow on leading.

Where CLP works as a "cleaner" is to keep fouling soft so the moving parts sweep it out of the way and allow the weapon to continue functioning longer.

For cleaning lead better solutions are to use a bore solvent with a good bore brush.
Many shotgunners recommend the "tornado" coil bore brush to remove leading and plastic fouling.
While it's expensive, you can use Kroil as a lead remover, but it takes soaking at least over night to allow the Kroil time to infiltrate under the leading and break the bond with the barrel.

Note that there is no "lead removal chemical", at least none that you want anywhere near a human. All the lead remover cleaners are really penetrating solvents that infiltrate under the leading, they can't "dissolve" lead.

Some people even use the Tornado coil brushes in rifled barrels but I question how well they work in rifling and how safe they are in a rifled barrel.

HOPPES TORNADO BRUSHES | Brownells

Another fast way to remove leading from a SMOOTH BORE BARREL is to wrap a used bore brush with 0000 steel wool and spin it with a drill through the barrel.
This doesn't take long so don't over do it.
It also polishes the bore and chamber.

NEVER, EVER spin a brush or anything else in a rifled barrel. People hear about doing this in a shotgun and figure it's okay for a rifled barrel.... It isn't.

 

[marinevet]

CLP is the only thing they gave us to clean our weapons when I was in the Marine Corps..........worked then, still works today, but I do use other products as well.........

 

[mauser9]

Thanks df for the tip. Have seen those tornado brushes in the past. Will try one. Have tried the Boresnakes with added Hoppes with only so-so results.