Break in for new 1911 stainless

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Haven't owned a 1911 in 30 yrs., any break in needs or advice or is it just shoot an enjoy.

1911s generally like to run with more lube than say, a Glock or M&P. Lube up the rails, the locking lugs, the slide stop pin that goes through the frame, around the end of the barrel where it passes through the bushing and then go shoot 1,000 rounds. Feel free to go fast. It is more fun that way! :) At the end, you will be broken in and have 1,000 rounds of actual sighted fire - fast - under your belt, and both you and your pistol will be better for it!
 
Haven't owned a 1911 in 30 yrs., any break in needs or advice or is it just shoot an enjoy.

For a minimal fee (to be discussed later) just ship it to me,with or without ammo,and I will break it in for you.Now,these 1911's can be quite finicky so it will need to spend some time with me. :D
 
Polish the feeding ramp (if not already), keep it lubed and shoot the heck out of it :)
 
run it "wet" and as said, shoot it. i use grease on rails and slide where the bbl. locks up. might put a bit on top of the bbl above the chamber. wait to polish for a few rounds first, then make it shinny!
 
I'll second using grease on the rails and slide rather than oil. That along with running a few hundred rounds of ball ammo made it run 100% on any ammo I feed it.
 
I don't mean to hijack this thread but i'm a big REM oil fan. Would it be wise to use grease on my 5906 rails and slide as well?
 
Grease wont hurt it your 5906 one bit and it stays in place better than oil so one can argue it might be better. Any quality grease will work, I've used gunslick, slide glide (in all 3 viscosities), shooters choice, frog lube paste, and imperial action wax (discontinued). It all works well on my PC1911. I just kind of slather it on, reassemble, and hand cycle a number of times, then wipe it all down to get anything that oozes out.


For the 1911, lube it good and then shoot it till your hands hurt. Relube and enjoy.

Forgot one caveat with the grease, if you live in a cold environment where you typically are below around 55F stick with a quality oil. Grease can thicken up slowing the slide resulting in jams until it warms.
 
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In addition to keeping it lubed, you may want to put in some lighter springs. My new E had VERY stiff recoil and main springs. Installed Wolff 16# recoil and 19# main and things are better.
 
I always clean and lube mine before I fired it for the first time. Usually 500 rounds works for me as a break in period if you don't have any other issues. My 1911SC had feed issues that did not correct itself during the break in period. Turned out there was too much tension on the extractor. Had it fixed and now runs like a champ.
 
It depends in part on the particulars of your 1911. I have 2 Ruger SR1911's and neither one needed any breakin at all, simply a good lube with a quality grease. BTW, one of them will get an Ed Brown Bobtail kit when I have the funds and the time.

Note, number one currently has 800 rounds downrange without one single malfunction and eats Speer Gold Dots like candy. Number two has over 1000 rounds downrange with one double feed on it's first range session at the 200 round mark and it also eats Speer Gold Dots like candy.

Final note, I don't consider a "breakin" to be even remotely a chore. Simple truth for me is that shootin is plain fun and any excuse to visit the range is good news to me. Basically what I am saying is shoot the shot out of your new pistol and have some fun.
 
I got my first stainless 1911 this year and I found it really worked well with RIG stainless grease on the rails. I first tried it with just an oil and it did not work properly.
 

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