Breaking in a new revolver

[dogtag]

Well I have read where it is best to break in a new firearm, specifically a rifle by firing a certain number of rounds through the barrel and clean the barrel and firing some more and re cleaning it and repeating this process a number of times. I seem to understand this process gives the barrel a clean way of breaking in true without the built up lead copper fouling grinding into the barrel and building up and firing a round over and over the fowling and not getting a true break in.

My question to this process is, is it also recommended with a handgun when it is brand spanking new? I have asked a couple people who said just shoot the hell out of it and don't worry and some have said it's a good idea.

What is your opinions, advice, tips or procedures on this on this? It will be a Model 360 M&P 3" 357 revolver. Any help will be much appreciated.

 

[Robinett_11B]

Just go out and put a few hundred rounds through it, then be sure to check for any signs of the frame cracking or 2-piece barrel seperating....not unheard of issues with the Unobtanium guns. Wouldn't hurt to wipe out under the extractor star, bore, and chambers before firing though.

Some guns, Kahrs/1911's/etc, need a break in period, but notsomuch the wheelguns. Revolvers don't require a "break in" like many autos and rifles...they're pretty much G2G out of the box.

 

[lebomm]

As far as I know, it's an accepted concept that a new gun will take a bit of "wearing in" to become what it will be for its service life, including the shooter becoming accustomed to its feel and performance. I wouldn't try to shortcut the process "ta git 'er broke in", but rather load, shoot, clean & oil by the end of the shooting day as you would an old, familiar gun. Let the break-in happen, don't make it happen. You'll see it improve as the sharp edges wear away - be patient.

JMHO,
Larry

 

[OKFC05]

First thing to do with any new gun is to clean and inspect it. The cleaning should be the same as any routine cleaning, but be sure to leave the chambers and bore clean and dry. Don't oil the chamber or bore because you are going to shoot it immediately.

Then shoot the gun with reliable ammunition for a reasonable practice session (more than just a couple of shots).
Then clean the gun and inspect it for any problems (just a normal cleaning and inspection).

Repeat PRN; enjoy!

 

[williamlayton]

OR---If that is to much trouble you could send it to one of us---we will be happy to let you know when it is broken in.
Blessings

 

[Sportsterguy]

Only thing I do is then clean the heck out of it, whch includes removing the grips and side plate then do a complete inspection. Really check out the forcing cone and check out all the screws in case they are loose. I then apply Militec-1 lube/conditioner to the entire revolver and put it in the oven to bake using the instuctions from Militec. Then apply their grease to the innards, close it up and appy another coat of the lube to it and the inside of the bore and cylinders. After that it's off to the range. Check out the trigger pull before and after doing this. It feels like you've had a pro do a trigger job on it and make further clean ups a breeze, plus it's really rust resistant.

 

[one eye joe]

As far as I know, it's an accepted concept that a new gun will take a bit of "wearing in" to become what it will be for its service life, including the shooter becoming accustomed to its feel and performance. I wouldn't try to shortcut the process "ta git 'er broke in", but rather load, shoot, clean & oil by the end of the shooting day as you would an old, familiar gun. Let the break-in happen, don't make it happen. You'll see it improve as the sharp edges wear away - be patient.

JMHO,
Larry

DITTO.........

 

[hawgleg]

Just clean an inspect as if a normal cleaning from a range trip. Then go and shoot it till you get familar with it cleaning and inspecting after every range trip till you decide it's a damn fine good.

 

[dogtag]

Thank you all very much on the advice. I'll let you know how it all go's at the range.

 

[semperfi71]

Sportsterguy sez; "...and put it in the oven to bake using the instuctions from Militec"

Do you serve that with a white wine or a red?

 

[Off-Road]

Isn't the biggest break in on revolvers the trigger mechanism?

 

[dogtag]

Militec-1 better than CLP? - YouTube

I did some research, for the hell of it I did a search on youtube for militec...

I've basically been using MPro7 for cleaning, especially the bores. Then I have been using TW25 B and the oil for slides and other moving parts. What's your opinon(s) on Militec1 vs MPro7 and Milicom 25 products for lube? I really like MPro7, it works and doesn't stinkup the garage and house.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3g7FzsJ7PA&feature=related

 

[Three44s]

Use Tetra gun cleaner/lube for your trigger and other moving parts.

Remove the grip and use Gunscrubber to flush out internals as lubes get dirty and sticky over time.

Re-lube with Tetra gun.

I prefer to leave the side plate alone unless it's absolutely necessary.

Three 44s

 

[H Richard]

Smith & Wesson revolvers require very little lubrication. Too much is not good. Unless you are proficient in disassemble, I would not recommend you remove the side plate. As far as rounds down the barrel and cleaning, a revolver is nothing like a rifle. Shoot it as if it were all broken in and then clean after each shooting session. Too much cleaning will wear out a revolver more than too much shooting.

 

[jack the toad]

I guess it may be considered a breakin as I will shoot any gun (shotgun, rifle, revolver, pistol) to confirm it will function properly.
I'm no expert but I've read from so-called experts on breaking in a rifle barrel to clean, shoot, repeat several times, etc. I agree that it may help if the rifling process was done in a way to cause imperfections, but I tend to agree with this article;
Barrel break-in (Gale McMillan)

Not to hijack this thread from breaking in a gun to barrel breakin debate, but I imagine the manufacturer, the process, quality control, etc. all play a role in how a barrel performs. Hammer forged for the mass produced to cut rifling for custom makers which usually includes button rifling. I read debates between button versus broaching. I think button is pretty much the standard but broaching may still be performed on a mass produced basis for those that don't have hammer forging. I've even read arguments over pulling the button as opposed to pushing and as I said, I'm no expert but I have my opinions and that is to shoot the s**t out of it and then clean the s**t out of it before putting away.

 

[charliek]

Only thing I do is then clean the heck out of it, whch includes removing the grips and side plate then do a complete inspection. Really check out the forcing cone and check out all the screws in case they are loose. I then apply Militec-1 lube/conditioner to the entire revolver and put it in the oven to bake using the instuctions from Militec. Then apply their grease to the innards, close it up and appy another coat of the lube to it and the inside of the bore and cylinders. After that it's off to the range. Check out the trigger pull before and after doing this. It feels like you've had a pro do a trigger job on it and make further clean ups a breeze, plus it's really rust resistant.

I use Militec faithfully, and instead of baking, I use a heat gun and get the parts pretty hot, as in a good range session, then let cool, and wipe down. This is really good for a rifle, when you can't put in an oven.

 

[halco46]

New Weapon

I always strip,INSPECT,clean and lube a new weapon Before shooting it. If all is ok then I put a coupla hundred rounds through it and repeat the cycle. Works.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Back in the day I was a new gun "snipper/polisher/grinder.......Now days I just wear "em" in with ammo.

 

[dogtag]

So, Charliek, say I was to continue using MPro7 to clean the bore. Could I use Miltec later (following the MP7bore clean) with Miltact, heat and wipe down excess/ Could i still use gun oil and the oil points in addition? Seems like Miltec is a all in one answer all cleaner/lube process.

I use Militec faithfully, and instead of baking, I use a heat gun and get the parts pretty hot, as in a good range session, then let cool, and wipe down. This is really good for a rifle, when you can't put in an oven.

 

[BobR1]

To each his own on lubrication. Any lite weight synthetic oil should work great. I personally like Lucas Gun Oil, or my home made version of it.

Asking the questions that you are, you probably have no business taking the side plate off your S&W yourself. I would probably have someone qualified open it up, flush it out, and oil it, while looking it over. With luck you can observe and learn to do it yourself. Not a big deal if you know what you are doing.

Next I would break it in shooting 38 Special ammo. My understanding is about every 1500 rounds of 357 Magnum it will be going on vacation back to Smith & Wesson to have the Top Strap Blast Shield replaced.
No idea where you live, or where you have to shoot. I would probably shoot between 50 and 100 rounds per range session, and clean it. I would probably have it opened up and flushed and reoiled every 1,000 rounds or once a year. The break in period is a very long process. A Smith & Wesson just keeps getting better and better until it starts to loosen up which normally takes a very long time if you are not a match shooter.

It should make you a great gun.

Bob