Breaking in a new revolver

[AveragEd]

Some guns, Kahrs/1911's/etc, need a break in period, but notsomuch the wheelguns. Revolvers don't require a "break in" like many autos and rifles...they're pretty much G2G out of the box.

Agreed. I recently bought a new Kimber Stainless Gold Match II 1911 in .45ACP. Kimber recommends firing 500 rounds to break the gun in. I'm using my 200-grain lead round-nose flat-point handloads and am up to 350 rounds. Until about 275 rounds, it would fail to return the slide to battery about 10% of the time but it worked perfectly for the entire last box of 50 I ran through it, so I guess there really is something to that break-in business.

Ed

 

[minconrevo]

Step 1: Clean barrel and cylinder chambers with normal gun cleaning solvent. Leave barrel and cylinder interiors dry afterwards. Detail exterior safety and functional exam, including barrel interior, forcing cone, chambers, sights and screws.

Step 2: Pull side plate (do not do this unless you have proper tools and knowledge) to do detail exam for safety/functionality. Lightly re-lube.

Step 3: Lightly re-lube normal external action points.

Step 4: Go shoot, with jacketed bullets if possible. Patch/solvent clean barrel every cylinder full or so for first 25 rounds, then every other cylinder for next 75. Gun will be easier to clean later and probably even shoot more accurately at end of first 100 rounds, especially with lead bullets.