Broken 28 Extractor Rod Removal

[minconrevo]

In the disassembly process, the extractor rod of my late 1970's Mod. 28 broke, leaving about 1/2 of the threaded portion of the rod in the star. The rod was screwing out normally, but apparently seized and snapped with the top of the remaining piece about .030 below the body of the star. The only means I can think of removal of this small portion is to carefully screw it out, using a very small punch. I've tried the freezer and additional penetrating oil. Any other ideas?

 

[minconrevo]

In the disassembly process, the extractor rod of my late 1970's Mod. 28 broke, leaving about 1/2 of the threaded portion of the rod in the star. The rod was screwing out normally, but apparently seized and snapped with the top of the remaining piece about .030 below the body of the star. The only means I can think of removal of this small portion is to carefully screw it out, using a very small punch. I've tried the freezer and additional penetrating oil. Any other ideas?

 

[john traveler]

Get yourself a set of Bristol spline wrenches. One of the smaller sizes should be a press fit in the center rod hole. Tap it into the hole, and use tighten/loosen movements to free the binding, and it should come right out.

 

[minconrevo]

Bristol spline wrench

I didn't mention that the center pin is still there, being retained by the remaining chunk of threaded extractor rod. It's in the way of any internal body removal device, such as a Bristol tool.

 

[canoe on the yukon]

I have an idea that "might"work.Being careful not to damage the star,clamp the part of the center pin that extends past the star into a vise.With fired cases in the cylinder to avoid spline damage,pull upwards on the cylinder to apply isometric tension as you turn the cylinder.After using penetrating oil,it just might work.Hold the fired cases in place with your fingers as you steadily turn the cylinder with your hand while pulling upwards applying tension.

 

[DCWilson]

I would try something like this: the center pin should be sticking out far enough that you can grip it in a drill press chuck. Set it spinning in the proper direction (clockwise, because you have reverse threads on the extractor rods at that time) at low revs and simultaneously pull down on the cylinder by hand. The friction of the collar against the concealed face of the broken ejector rod portion may be enough to break it free and back the whole thing out.

Good luck. Whether it is guns, engines, clocks, power tools, whatever -- I just HATE disassembly pickles like this one.

David W.

 

[Alk8944]

Originally posted by minconrevo:
In the disassembly process, the extractor rod of my late 1970's Mod. 28 broke, leaving about 1/2 of the threaded portion of the rod in the star. The rod was screwing out normally, but apparently seized and snapped with the top of the remaining piece about .030 below the body of the star. The only means I can think of removal of this small portion is to carefully screw it out, using a very small punch. I've tried the freezer and additional penetrating oil. Any other ideas?

Don't you just love it when no one takes the time to understand the question before posting their bright ideas? Sounds pretty clear-cut what you are saying. DCWilson seems to be the only one who understood the situation.

Two ideas. First, try DCWilsons idea, can't hurt. If that doesn't work try this. First flush the extractor shaft thoroughly with one of the either brake or electrical spray cleaners and allow to dry thoroughly. Both Brakleen and Lectromotive cleaner and the Loc-Tite are available at NAPA and most other auto parts stores. After dry use some of the wicking Loc-Tite thread locker. Put one drop on the centerpin and allow it to wick between the centerpin and the broken extractor rod shank. Be very careful to assure none of the Loc-Tite gets onto the threaded portion of the extractor or you will have a bigger problem than you already do. After giving the Loc-Tite adequate time to cure per the instructions grasp the centerpin firmly in a vise using a leather pad to protect it and then try to unscrew the stub as normally would be done. Worth a try at least, this is a very unusual thing to happen.

If either you get Loc-Tite on the threads, or the broken shank is siezed in the extractor firmly enough that the effort to unscrew it exceeds the strength of the Loc-Tite, then about all that is left is send it to the factory and have a new extractor fit. I can guarantee they will not even attempt to remove the broken shank. I seriously doubt that even S&W service has seen this happen before.

 

[minconrevo]

Some good ideas presented here for me to try; hope it works.

Unless S&W service still has some of the old-style stars (with the two pins) I'm likely to hear that I need a new cylinder too. Don't want to hear all that!

 

[tomcatt51]

Originally posted by Alk8944:

Originally posted by minconrevo:
In the disassembly process, the extractor rod of my late 1970's Mod. 28 broke, leaving about 1/2 of the threaded portion of the rod in the star. The rod was screwing out normally, but apparently seized and snapped with the top of the remaining piece about .030 below the body of the star. The only means I can think of removal of this small portion is to carefully screw it out, using a very small punch. I've tried the freezer and additional penetrating oil. Any other ideas?

Don't you just love it when no one takes the time to understand the question before posting their bright ideas? Sounds pretty clear-cut what you are saying. DCWilson seems to be the only one who understood the situation.

Two ideas. First, try DCWilsons idea, can't hurt. If that doesn't work try this. First flush the extractor shaft thoroughly with one of the either brake or electrical spray cleaners and allow to dry thoroughly. Both Brakleen and Lectromotive cleaner and the Loc-Tite are available at NAPA and most other auto parts stores. After dry use some of the wicking Loc-Tite thread locker. Put one drop on the centerpin and allow it to wick between the centerpin and the broken extractor rod shank. Be very careful to assure none of the Loc-Tite gets onto the threaded portion of the extractor or you will have a bigger problem than you already do. After giving the Loc-Tite adequate time to cure per the instructions grasp the centerpin firmly in a vise using a leather pad to protect it and then try to unscrew the stub as normally would be done. Worth a try at least, this is a very unusual thing to happen.

If either you get Loc-Tite on the threads, or the broken shank is siezed in the extractor firmly enough that the effort to unscrew it exceeds the strength of the Loc-Tite, then about all that is left is send it to the factory and have a new extractor fit. I can guarantee they will not even attempt to remove the broken shank. I seriously doubt that even S&W service has seen this happen before.

It's an interesting problem. To twist off the ejector rod the threads are probably beyond removing by trying to loctite the remains of the ejector rod to the center pin. You may be able to pull the center pin up, cut it off, and then drill the ejctor rod remains. I don't know if your 28 is old enough to be right hand thread or the newer left hand threads. If it's RH thread use a LH drill bit or if LH thread use a RH bit. Use a drill bit just smaller than the ejector rod's threads minor diameter. Good luck.

 

[Skip357]

Take an old rod the same thrds,and grind the rod ,on each side and you will get a point on each side.put the rod over your center pen and turn it off.

 

[minconrevo]

Here's what finally worked. Cut off center rod, then indicated and drilled down (in a vertical mill) .125 x .500. That was the easy part. The hard part was finding the correct tool to go into the hole. A Lisle Super Out (p/n 62900) was almost the right tool. It has long splines along the untapered shaft. The smallest size was a tad big. Humm? Lisle? How about a Torx 15 bit? Yes, perfect tool to go down into the hole and not cause damage to the ejector star shaft. It spun the remnants of the old ejector rod out without damage to the 48 TPI threads in close proximity. Put three fired cases in cylinder, to ease stresses. Lots of Kroil over several days helps. I did carefully run a tap down the hole, since the threads seemed a little sticky with the new ejector rod.