Broken Hammer Block

[PRM1]

I have a Model 60-9 that I bought new in 1997. The gun has broken 2 of the MIM hammer blocks??? Does anyone make a non-MIM hammer block for this gun?

 

[Gearhead Jim]

I'm guessing that either you are a tremendously unlucky guy, or something else is going on in your gun.

 

[diamonback68]

I'm guessing that either you are a tremendously unlucky guy, or something else is going on in your gun.

I agree, the hammer block safety never gets hit with anything unless the gun is dropped on the hammer slamming it into the safety. Otherwise it just slides up and down in a groove. I would check for junk and goop in the HBS groove iside, it may be gummed up enough to hold the retraction just enough that it is being hit by the hammer during firing.

 

[PRM1]

The gun has never been dropped or the hammer hit. Internals are clean as the day they left the factory.

 

[Patriot04]

My 60-9 is back at the factory with a broken hammer. No drops here either.

 

[DCWilson]

I don't mind looking dumb in a good cause, so I'll ask why would a hammer block be a MIM part anyway? I thought they were all stamped/bent steel. There is nothing about them that needs to be precision dimensioned. If ever there was a "close is good enough" part in a S&W, this is it.

We are talking about the flag-shaped piece that slides in the sideplate groove and is cammed by the pin on the rebound slide, right?

 

[PRM1]

Good question ~ You got the right part, when it breaks you can see it is a cast, pot metal type material. What I have been asking is if anyone makes a stamped block for the Model 60-9. The hammer block in that model was slightly curved and not straight.

 

[jspick]

If you think you can bend a stamped steel one to fit your gun I have a blued stamped steel hammer block saftey for a J frame. If you want it email me with your mailing address and I will get it out in the mail to you.

John

 

[Bullseye Smith]

The hammer block is stamped and a twist in it, must be another part that you have missed labeled. Where are the pictures????????????? I want to see a MIM hammer block that is broke. This little part is the most over looked part when doing a trigger job.

 

[PRM1]

Hammer Block PIC

Here's a pic ~ I would have posted earlier, but just now figured out the file manager on the forum.

 

[buckyjames1]

O.k. trend is starting.
Model 60-10.
Hammer block broke into 3 pieces while I was doing some dry firing.
Had a complete action job done from P/C. I installed a spring set, was testing it and the action completely locked up.
Took off the cover and 3 pieces fell out.
Called S/W and they mailed me another but otherwise it is a $26 piece.
1 of the breaking points is at the same location as yours.

Your not going crazy

 

[PRM1]

S&W Customer Service so far has been good. I have received replacement hammer blocks in about three days both times. Problem is they are the same stuff. I have been searching other forums on this and have found 9 others posts (yours makes 10), where other j frame owners are experiencing the same. I would not call it an isolated problem, nor considering the number of guns out there a significant problem either (at least for S&W). The standard fix seems to be mailing replacement hammer blocks. I don't understand why they don't fix the problem and go back to the older style stamped steel blocks. I am going to try and modify an older block to work if I can get one. If that doesn't work, I guess I will try and find a gunsmith or machine shop that will fabricate one. Seems like someone would be doing this upgrade already, but, I can't find them. I agree that this part should just move in its groove ~ but, breakages are still happening.

 

[wheelgun610]

I just can't imagine why they would switch to MIM for a part like a hammer block. There couldn't possibly be that much cost difference vs. the stamped hammer block - could there? I never heard of a stamped HB breaking....

Mark

 

[Bullseye Smith]

I guess I will eat crow, But I don't think it is MIM, looks like it is cast steel. It doesn't look like MIM. Get The address to the guy that will give you one and put the older part in it. The hammer block will bind some in old or new. I can get a trigger down to 3 lbs double action without the hammer block, but going without one is a no-no unless it is a hammerless model.

 

[G.T. Smith]

Dry firing a lot are ya? makes me cringe. prolly OK though according to a lot of folks. still makes me cringe. My Dad would slap hell out of me for doing that. wonder why he was like that, being a machinist/tool and die maker/mechanical engineer? Smack, Smack, Smack, beat em up. OW! I got a knot on my head!
Peace,
gordon

 

[jspick]

Philip,
The hammer block is on the way.

John

 

[PRM1]

John,

I got the hammer block this afternoon. It was the straight pattern,and the cast ones in my gun are bent. You were right about making it fit. A little bending and it dropped right in. The gun appears to be working perfect. I am still going to make a couple of trips to the range before I consider it solved. I don't think this part will ever be a problem. Just want to make sure everything else continues working.

Thanks ~ I owe you one, will update more later.

 

[jspick]

Glad I could help. I'm glad it works. Lots of shooting will tell if it will hold up.

John

 

[DrDremel]

I had one break in my 649. Your picture looks exactly like mine. Sounds like another example of a cheaper part not as good as the old fashioned one. How much cheaper can this part that costs pennies to make be?

 

[bountyhunter]

Not sure if it is cast or MIM, but I definitely see mold lines running down the side. Either way, that's another case of stupid engineering: as I have said, MIM is not inherently evil, but it is a poor choice for long thin pieces where minor grain defects make catastrophic failures. Colt found out with their extractors on 1911's and this part is a bad one for a MIM process.