Broken Hammer Stud

[goatsnguns]

I Have a "Baby Chief", 1954 vintage, that the hammer stud broken off flush with the frame. Gun Parts Corp is sold out, so I am not even sure what the complete stud looks like. Is it just a pin or is there a flange or collar on it? There are no spanner holes around the pin so I don't think it is a screw in type. Can it be drilled out and a new pin fitted????

I sure would appreciate any suggestions or information if anyone has had experience with such a problem.

Thanks

 

[armorer951]

Here's some additional info.....

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/137464-possible-relace-hammer-stud.html

 

[goatsnguns]

Here are some pictures of the broken stud.

Now that I've studied the pictures, it looks like the stud has a collar, based on the machining marks on the inside of the frame.....opinions???

 

[dfariswheel]

Without actually seeing it it's not certain, but it looks like the enlarged area is a boss machined onto the frame to act as a spacer for the hammer.

It looks like the actual hammer pin is just a straight pin. To be sure compare the diameter of the pin to the exposed portion on the outside of the frame.
If that's smaller then the broken part, the pin has a reduced section that fits into the frame hole.

Whether this is a pressed in pin or an induction brazed pin is unknown.

Smart move.......Back to S&W for a correct replacement.

If they can't/won't repair it, see Frank Glenn in Arizona for a factory level repair.

 

[goatsnguns]

Unfortunately it is a five screw from 1954, S&W will not work on it.
Thanks for the info on Frank Glenn.

 

[StevethePirate]

Just wanting to bring this back up.

I just notice the hammer stud on my Pre-Model 30 32 Long broke. I had heard that Cylinder and Slide wasn't accepting new work (not sure, but that's something I heard), but does anyone else have recommendations on finding a qualified gunsmith to fix it?

 

[GBertolet]

Here is a video for informational purposes. This is a model 29 trigger stud replacement. I believe trigger and hammer studs both use the same procedure.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMt78qX1ED0[/ame]

 

[steelslaver]

I did one for an old friend. Like a lot of things part of it depends on what tools are at your disposal and how much time you want to spend. The whole re blue thing is because modern studs are polished off flat. If you leave the length a bit long and dome and blue the end you do not need to re blue. Guy bought me 3 studs.

There is a boss on the pin that sets in a recess in the frame.

I first tried to drill out the original stud, keeping the hole just shallow enough that it did not exit the outside of frame. I turned a stud using an old drill bit just a tiny bit over sized for the hole and pressed it in. It worked for a while then got loose enough that it did not work 100%. Then went to a factory stud as the boss set in the recess gives it more base and rigidity.

If you have chunks of aluminum or brass laying around the support jugs are easy to make, you also need an arbor press or small hydraulic press.

But, with some angle and square tubing and a hydraulic jack you can make a little press in a few hours.

 

[StevethePirate]

I did one for an old friend. Like a lot of things part of it depends on what tools are at your disposal and how much time you want to spend. The whole re blue thing is because modern studs are polished off flat. If you leave the length a bit long and dome and blue the end you do not need to re blue. Guy bought me 3 studs.

There is a boss on the pin that sets in a recess in the frame.

I first tried to drill out the original stud, keeping the hole just shallow enough that it did not exit the outside of frame. I turned a stud using an old drill bit just a tiny bit over sized for the hole and pressed it in. It worked for a while then got loose enough that it did not work 100%. Then went to a factory stud as the boss set in the recess gives it more base and rigidity.

If you have chunks of aluminum or brass laying around the support jugs are easy to make, you also need an arbor press or small hydraulic press.

But, with some angle and square tubing and a hydraulic jack you can make a little press in a few hours.

Thanks for the details! That's a bit more involved of a job than I'm willing to take on with my skills and tools. I'm going to try and find a gunsmith willing to take on the job. I've already had one very competent gunsmith decline the job. That alone tells me it isn't something that I should attempt. I'm good for disassembly and reassembly, along with some cosmetic things, but this is something a bit too risky for me to take on.

 

[steelslaver]

Probably the best decision. I am an accomplished tinkerer. Have lots of tools and it was a time consuming pain in the rear. I spent more time making jigs that actually doing work. Plus, any time you are messing with the actual frame there is the little bug in thee back of your head telling you that your messing with stuff that could ruin the frame.

 

[steelslaver]

PS. I believe that the drill it out, tap it and then make a stud with the frame portion threaded shown in the UTube video would work well. BUT, you had better nail the hole perfectly.

The early model guns all had threaded studs.

 

[CH4]

A few years ago S&W replaced the hammer stud on my 627-0.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

You need to take it to a GOOD gunsmith, you have to measure alot and take the stud with you. I have replaced them with the shank from a drill bit. After drilling it I would epoxy it and put the side plate on it untill the next day. clean-up the area around the new stud and put back together. There is alot to do that I didn't say to do.

 

[SG-688]

The old style threaded studs can be found. I bought a set when tinkering with the 1942 New Zealand M&P frankengun.

What's the percentage on drilling and threading a frame to match one of the old studs?

Since my model 19-3 broke a few years ago - S&W did repair it - I've thought a threaded broken stud repair kit was a money making opportunity for someone like Power.