Broken Rear Sight Blade on Model 28

[jjbduke2004]

I purchased a 28-2 in NY and had it sent to a MD FFL where it is sitting until the waiting period completes.

When I went to the FFL today to start the paperwork, I saw the right side of the rear sight blade had been broken off.

I saw the Midway video on replacing rear sights and realize that I need to break the screw (and have a new screw ready).

What size rear sight should I get? Per Numrich, the 0.136 black appears to be correct. But since I plan to use this for target work, is there a better choice (white-outline) and size?

Can I restake the windage nut without a special tool?

 

[Alk8944]

When you get the gun run the sight blade all the way to the left and just measure the height of the blade with a micrometer or dial caliper and then order one the same height. A .126 or .146 are the most likely. BTW, there is no nominal .136, don't know where you saw that. Any blade will vary as much as +-.005 from the nominal dimension.

A staking punch is best, but S&W has been just using a center punch for years so there is no reason not to. If you get the sight kit buy from S&W. Their kit comes with instructions (!) and their shipping is less. Order 2 extra windage screw springs & plungers, you will see why as soon as you try to break the screw head and remove it! They will only cost another $2 or so for two sets and you will be glad to not have to wait another week when you have to order them. They are very, very easy to lose, and sometimes cannot be salvaged from the old screw to re-use.

Your choice of white outline or not depends on your front sight and intended purpose. If you have a red ramp and are going to use this as a field gun then get the w/o. If your gun has a black Baughman (it will) or Patridge (it won't), and are going to shoot bullseye then get the plain blade. If you can't decide just buy the w/o, and if you decide you don't like it just use your wife's finger nail polish remover on a Q-tip or patch and wipe the w/o off, it is just paint. If you want to keep it be very careful cleaning the sight as many solvents will take it off before you know it.

 

[ken158]

According to my factory armorers manual there is a .136 and it is used on K frame 22. If your model 28 is 4", you need a .126, if it is a 6", you need a .146. You can stake with a pointed awl which is what the factory uses - at least when I was there. Also, when you break the sight blade screw, rotate the plunger under the sight blade and slide it out of the sight - when you put the new blade in, just capture the plunger under the blade and slide it back in. If you do this inside a clear plastic bag, you can keep the plunger and spring from escaping into space.

 

[jjbduke2004]

Thank you both for your replies. I will caliper it when I get it, buy a new sight and screw, nut and springs and plunger.


In the mean time, if I want to shoot it right away, will my 686+-6's entire rear sight assembly fit?

 

[WOB]

A tiny dab of Loctite will work just as well as staking, plus it leaves the sight easily disassembled without breaking the screw by heating the nut with a soldering iron. Just be sure the threads are degreased before application of the thread locker.

WOB