Have seen some old posts on this. Has anyone replaced one? I bought an old 581 (no dashes). Gun is in good shape but the trigger stud is broken. I am cheap and do not want to send to the factory for fixing. The part is less than $3.00 from Numrich. Have the tools to do but have never done one. Any advice?
Broken trigger stud
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Alk8944
US Veteran
Suggestion? Yes, send it to the factory. The studs are induction brazed into the frame, there just isn't any way for someone working at home to replace it without doing damage to the frame, and likely unrepairable.
Rebolbero
Member
I also broke one on my 686-4 last year. I was also hesistant to send it to the factory at first so I consulted some local gunsmiths to save some shipping but they turned me down for the reason that they dont have the jigs set-up for that kind of job. I eventually sent it to the factory and they will give you two options: a crown stud without refinishing which costs less than $100 and a crown stud with refinishing for more than $200. I just opted for the former and it still turned out great.
Bailey Boat
Member
Just out of curosity, how does a trigger stud get broken????
Thanks for the replies. I did not want to sent to the factory because of the shipping cost back and forth (round $80.00). The part from Numrich is $3.00!!! I bought the gun as a project gun. Seems to more than I thought. I will try to replace it myself and let you know how it turns out.
Trigger studs do not break often but this gun has had A LOT of use, was a shooting range rental.
Trigger studs do not break often but this gun has had A LOT of use, was a shooting range rental.
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Installing a new trigger stud.
That is not entirely true. I have successfully replaced them without sending the revolver back to the Factory, and without brazing them. The part is cheap enough to give it a shot yourself if you have some basic tools, have the knowledge and mechanic ability.
Depending on the exact model and date of manufacture, most of the studs can be installed and lightly staked into place. If the fit is true and you get a tight fit you are in business. Once your side plate is reinstalled, the stud CAN NOT go anywhere, or move at all. It is held between the frame hole on the left side and the hole in the side plate on the right side. Before staking the stud in, try it in different positions to achieve the best cosmetic fit looking at the hole on the left side of the gun. When the Factory installs a new one they polish the stud and gun together as one unit and that is why you can barley see the stud on a new revolver. Doing this my way will reveal a slightly more visible hairline circle around the stud, because most of us do not have the ability to refinish a gun. Stainless is not that difficult to do, but most of the time I am able to get a good enough fit that no one would ever notice it anyway.
If you do not feel comfortable doing this or have any hesitations at all, then by all means send it back to S&W, but I have done this procedure more than a few times with excellent results.
Oh, and to answer how a trigger stud breaks in the first place, here are a few reasons. The trigger stud does have a fair amount of stress on it from the internal springs and recoil. When the side plate is removed, there is only support on one side, so there is pressure on it. Most of the time ( in fact all of the time in my personal experiences ) it shears off where the knurled "head" meets the smooth shaft.
Regards,
chief38
That is not entirely true. I have successfully replaced them without sending the revolver back to the Factory, and without brazing them. The part is cheap enough to give it a shot yourself if you have some basic tools, have the knowledge and mechanic ability.
Depending on the exact model and date of manufacture, most of the studs can be installed and lightly staked into place. If the fit is true and you get a tight fit you are in business. Once your side plate is reinstalled, the stud CAN NOT go anywhere, or move at all. It is held between the frame hole on the left side and the hole in the side plate on the right side. Before staking the stud in, try it in different positions to achieve the best cosmetic fit looking at the hole on the left side of the gun. When the Factory installs a new one they polish the stud and gun together as one unit and that is why you can barley see the stud on a new revolver. Doing this my way will reveal a slightly more visible hairline circle around the stud, because most of us do not have the ability to refinish a gun. Stainless is not that difficult to do, but most of the time I am able to get a good enough fit that no one would ever notice it anyway.
If you do not feel comfortable doing this or have any hesitations at all, then by all means send it back to S&W, but I have done this procedure more than a few times with excellent results.
Oh, and to answer how a trigger stud breaks in the first place, here are a few reasons. The trigger stud does have a fair amount of stress on it from the internal springs and recoil. When the side plate is removed, there is only support on one side, so there is pressure on it. Most of the time ( in fact all of the time in my personal experiences ) it shears off where the knurled "head" meets the smooth shaft.
Regards,
chief38
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SW357Addict
Member
Wouldn't a broken trigger stud be covered under S&W's warranty? Assuming it broke under normal use of course.
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If the revolver was manufactured AFTER S&W's lifetime Warranty, then yes it would be covered. If it was made prior to that (I believe the early to mid 90's is when they started that policy) then you would be S.O.L. I suppose a call to he factory might not be a bad idea.
I have had this happen to me a number of times. and I actually have a few spare studs for some of my revolvers so I can just replace them 1,2,3. I won't go so far as to say a broken stud is a common occurrence, but it does happen from time to time. I actually bought a collectible first generation Chief's Special that was unfired because it actually had a broken hammer stud right from the gun store. They probably unknowingly bought it that way and they did not know what the problem was, (I did - and knew it was not a big deal to fix) and bought this gun at a ridiculously great price! I have seen this particular problem happen mostly on J Frame guns, but occasionally happens to larger ones as well.
Regards,
chief38
I have had this happen to me a number of times. and I actually have a few spare studs for some of my revolvers so I can just replace them 1,2,3. I won't go so far as to say a broken stud is a common occurrence, but it does happen from time to time. I actually bought a collectible first generation Chief's Special that was unfired because it actually had a broken hammer stud right from the gun store. They probably unknowingly bought it that way and they did not know what the problem was, (I did - and knew it was not a big deal to fix) and bought this gun at a ridiculously great price! I have seen this particular problem happen mostly on J Frame guns, but occasionally happens to larger ones as well.
Regards,
chief38
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If the stud were threaded for screw-in installation, two things would happen under recoil. First, it would actually be more prone to breakage because the threads narrow the piece (and cut into the metal) which would actually weakening it, and the other thing is it would more than likely loosen up and start backing out soon after being shot.
chief38
chief38
Makes sense, thanks.
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