Bullet lube advice needed

oldvette

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I recently initiated cast bullet reloading for a recently acquired SV40 Sigma. All previous cast bullet experience has included conventional sizing using Lyman 45 sizers and dies. This time, I decided to try the Lee equipment including the TL (Tumble Lube) 175 6-cavity mold and I just cast a 10-lb load of straight Wheel Weights with about 15% soft weights thrown into the brew. Resulting BH using the Lee tester showed 12-14 for about 400 bullets which appeared excellent in formation.

My intent was to load these using Power Pistol, but I have not been able to find any under $50 per lb plus shipping and hazmat. I do have plenty of Unique, and planned to start with 4.5 gr under the 175 bullet until the market becomes more sensible.

Considering this was my first experience with the tumble lube process and the Lee .401 sizing die, I noticed a liberal coating of the lube on the base surface of the bullet. I was wondering if this base coating should be wiped off prior to seating the bullet, and what impact would the lube have on any powder used in the process? Do powder granules which might contact the lube still fire OK?

I do wipe each reloaded round to remove the bullet nose lube prior to storage in my ammo boxes, and do frequently clean the seating and crimp dies as a matter of course.

Thanks for any advice.

Jack
 
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You are probably using way too much tumble lube, as most first-timers do.
However, the lube does not hurt the powder burn, especially not with pistol loads.
Use a clean plastic container to apply the lube to the bullets, dribbling just enough to cover the bullets when you close the container and roll the bullets around. If there is enough lube on the bullet that you can mark it with a fingernail when the lube is wet, that's plenty!
Turn the bullets out on wax paper and allow to dry over night. Forget the wiping. If the lube is clogging your dies, you using way too much lube.
 
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I have used alox and 45-45-10 quite a bit. (I don't like the brown nose on a bullet so I dip lube, and my seating dies stay cleaner too). I don't remember any powder contamination from lube on the bullet's base, as most of the time I don't bother to wipe the bases off.
 
It’s been a while since I tumble lubed, so my memory is suspect. I don’t remember wiping the base coating off.
I did have better success tumble lubing with 45-45-10 vs Lee Alox. It was less messy. But Alox works.
Try warming the bullets with a hair dryer first. You will get a thinner, less messy coat.
 
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No need to wipe the base. It don't take much alox. I Thin it with mineral spirits. I use a metal pan that will hold 100 boolits. I heat the lead with a heat gun in the pan. Then I put in a little alox and then add mineral spirits. You can tell when the color is right. Just shake around until they are covered. Then I pick them out and stand nose up on a computer slide plate. The heat makes the boolits dry a lot faster. You can use a putty knife to scrape the alox for the next time. Put it in an air tight container. This way takes more time but the outcome is better. I had some Lee's axox on a spoon and was going to melt it off in my 850 degree lead pot and it wouldn't melt. It's tough. I have 7 lube sizers and don't know why I even mess with it.:)
 
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I have had very good results with Lee Alox tumble lubing. Like most i used to much the first time or two but finally got the hang of it. I think it work good or it does for me in 45ACP and 45 Colt.
 
I sold my lube-a-matic after discovering powder coat for bullets.

shake in a tupperware bin with a few tablespoons of eastwoods powder coat
U1gJe55.jpg


after baking at 400* for 20mins in a cheap toaster oven

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no leading, even with max H110/win296 or 2400 1450fps loads
 
The question was about alox lube-nothing to do with powder coat:).

It's called thread drift. I like bacon wrapped broccoli washed down with chocolate chip cookies. But as a side note I have considered powder coating. Have used the 45-45-10 method and it works great.
 
I size bullets dry first with no problems using my RCBS Rock Chucker and sizing dies. I then dump the bullets in a plastic tube and squirt a small amount of lube on top of the bullets. Hand tumble a few times and pour out the bullets on newspaper and let dry. As for the Alox, I have tried two methods to lighten the coating of the bullets. Alox and a little Mineral Spirits shaken up make the material much easier to use and the MS will evaporate as the Alox cures. Other method is more time consuming, soaking the Alox bottle in hot water. I find using it from the bottle cold coats ends up way to heavy.

For me, excess coating does not affect the powder burn, but rather makes the bore dirty quicker. You have a wax partially burned after every shot and one ends up with much more fouling in the bore after shooting. Alox and mineral spirits leaves a light coating on the bullet and ends up with a cleaner bore after shooting.
 
If you heat the lead first the alox will melt fast without hot water.<a big short cut>and the lead will coat more evenly and dry to touch in a short while. After about an hour hit the lead again with a heat gun or hair drier and they set up faster. You can load in 3 hours instead of waiting over night.
 
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Once you try powder coating, you'll never want to use alox again.

...but carry on with your sticky alox ways LOL
I am a bench shooter <not all the time-just testing loads> and coated boolits are not as accurate as a lube in my tests. Bullseye shooters would use them if that were the case. If you wont to sling lead powder is the way to go. I normally shoot twice a week for the past 45 years or so. I have spent several $ finding what to do and not get beat. Powder may work for some people but not for me. Me and my small group have tried different brands. I like lube and smoke.:)
 
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coated bullets are accurate enough for me

All of these were shot with coated bullets made on a Dillon 650

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Umk68uyVxtA[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S31aVTPzR_0[/ame]

how about a snubbie...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aY3XP8Ghe1E[/ame]
 
A pretend gunfighting stance may require two hands for best results, but a one-handed bullseye position works well for improving shooting technique and you might find it an enjoyable way to shoot, especially at distances beyond five or fifteen yards. Once learned, it's easy to revert back to two-handed shooting with no loss in skill.
 
In USPSA / IPSC there are many stages that require strong hand only, and weak hand only shooting.

I think we've hijacked this thread enough.

If you bullseye shooters want to start a new thread with your skills on video, maybe I'll stop by.

coated > wax lube > alox

.
 
Back to Subject...

I started casting 30 cal GC rifle bullets lubing with Liquid Alox swabbed on by Q-Tip, sizing thru Lee Precision loading press sizer, then after scoring a Lyman 450 luber sizer and heater at GS switched to that process. i currently load a Tumble Lube type 200g semi wad cutter in .45 ACP and lube-size thru the 450 and heater with some red, hollow hard lube loaded over 231 and the shallow grooves on the bullet work just fine. Less Mess.
 
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Although I've pretty much gone to HyTek coated bullets for all my handgun bullets, I still reach for the Lee alox when troubleshooting a leading problem.
If I'm going to do a thousand bullets or so then i will make up a batch of 45/45/10 lube (the stuff dries out after about a year in a squeeze bottle).

Other than being a bit ugly, Lee Alox is the very best lube for results and ease of use.
 
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