Bullseye Revolver - 4 or 6" Barrel

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I was a Bullseye shooter up to about 18 months ago but had to stop because of an injury. The arm is all better now and I would like to return to shooting, but would like to try revolver work this time. My current plan is to get a a 617 and 625. I know the 625 is a 4" gun, but I believe I have the choice of getting either a 4 or 6" barrel for the 617. I would rather get the 4" barrel, but was curious of anyone else's experience and whether there is a great advantage to the longer barrel.
 
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The 625 can be had in a 5" barrel
You can also get a 25 in a 6 or 6-1/2" (I forget exactly)

I prefer 6" revolvers and have better success with them.
Some people shoot 4" guns better.
It comes down to the shooter.
Try to shoot with each barrel length and see what is best for you.
IMO holding them in a store without shooting them is does not give an accurate assessment.
You need range time with them.
 
The 8 3/8 inch slightly tapered barrels that were a standard offering on 17s and 14s were designed for bullseye. They provided the maximum sight radius that was allowed, 10”. They also have excellent weight and balance. I shoot expert with one using iron sights. Apparently out of ignorance S&W dropped them for 8 3/8” full lug barrels that are too heavy to shoot one handed. Formerly I did just as well with a 617’s 6” full lug barrel and iron sights. The 617’s 6” full lug barrel is slightly heavier and has ideal weight and balance but gives up sight radius.

After optics superseded irons sight radius no longer mattered for most competitors. It became a matter of balance with the optic mounted. Also it is in vogue to believe that a shorter barrel releases the bullet before the muzzle wanders further off. I’m skeptical of that claim.

PPC shooter is basically correct, most competitors shoot iron sights better with a longer sight radius. However, some older fellows find that with their eyes focused on a front sight further out the rear notch is too blurred. There is also the matter of pride in competing with a traditional revolver and for you that might mean 4”.
 
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One of the supreme faults of a new shooter is trying to reinvent the wheel . The best gun , the best load etc etc etc . Learn to shoot what you've got . Personally IMHO 6" is the way regardless of caliber . 38 special is like 45 hardball if the load will hold 3" @ 50yds you're good to go . Shoot the dang gun . Scores take care of themselves , believe me . Age , eyes , physical condition take their toll even on a HM shooter . The point is if it aint FUN you've beaten yourself . See you on the line & keep 'em all in the black .
 
I have shot 45 in bullseye for 30 years. At one club, a fellow shooting a S&W revolver whooped my butt weekly. Slow fire was one group of shots in the 10 ring. By the time he got to rapid fire, they spread out a little because he still has to cock the gun.

I no longer shoot matches. I still have the 45.

I shot this target with my 6" revolver. Its 5 shots at 50 feet

Your basic HBWC and 2.7 bullseye
NCM_0547-L.jpg


I never mastered a revolver in a match. I shot a 6" Dan Wesson 38 for a season but its hard to beat a real 45 with target loads.

Enjoy the match!

David
 
I'd go with the 6" in both guns. If your not worried about drawing a gun from a holster the 6" barrels have always seemed to be the best compromise of sight radius and balance to me.
 
The 625 is offered in 4 and 5 inch barrels. I MUCH prefer the 5 inch barrel, it balances better. For a .38, use a 6 inch barrel!
 
As noted above, the full lug barrels in 6" and 8" lengths can be a little to heavy to balance nicely. I have no idea what S&W is thinking with 6" full lug barrels, other than pandering to shooters who can't handle recoil and/or who don't value the handling qualities of their revolver.

But a 6" barrel in something like a Model 14, 15 or 19 is a very nicely balanced revolver that gives you a decent sight radius without straining your arm.
 
I was a Bullseye shooter up to about 18 months ago but had to stop because of an injury. The arm is all better now and I would like to return to shooting, but would like to try revolver work this time. My current plan is to get a a 617 and 625. I know the 625 is a 4" gun, but I believe I have the choice of getting either a 4 or 6" barrel for the 617. I would rather get the 4" barrel, but was curious of anyone else's experience and whether there is a great advantage to the longer barrel.

I HAVE BEEN A BULLSEYE SHOOTER FOR DECADES. IMHO, THERE IS LITTLE APPRECIABLE DIFFERENCE IN ACCURACY BETWEEN THE 4" AND 6" VERSION OF THE SAME MODEL. THERE IS THE SLIGHT ADVANTAGE OF 2" MORE OF SIGHTING RADIUS, WITH THE LONGER BARREL IF YOU ARE USING IRON SIGHTS. THE USE OF A RED DOT ON BOTH FIREARMS NEGATES ANY DIFFERENCE. I TRADED ALL OF MY 6" SHOOTERS FOR 4" VERSIONS THROUGH THE YEARS. I DO HAVE 2 RANGE GUNS WITH 8 3/8" BARRELS MOUNTED WITH ULTRA DOT, 30MM RED DOTS--A 617, AND A 686. THEY SHOOT LIKE RIFLES…….
 
I have many revolvers but shoot an old pre M15 (Combat Masterpiece) with a four inch barrel better than all of my 6" models. Never could figure out why - I just do. See what you shoot best by trying someone else's before purchasing if at all possible. But what you shoot the best.
 
The longer bbl can help, but for me at least I prefer a lighter barrel vs full lug so there not so much weight out front, which induces wobbles sometimes. I shoot both a Colt OMM and 14-3 at the bullseye range better than any of my other guns.
 
Sight radius is what it is all about. These guys know their stuff, great advice. We occasionally have to pull out the RR to show unbelievers that barrel length and accuracy in a handgun have no relation. A 2 in mdl 15 will shoot the same groups a 6 in model 14 will out of the RR. Our mantra is "D bullet don't know how long D barrel is". Ransom Rests will prove this every time. BUT O'BOY is that 6 incher easier to shoot straight when in your feeble human hands!
 
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