My full size M&P is shipping from Bud's tomorrow. His site mentions to fully inspect the gun before having the FFL do the transfer, once the transfer is done, too late if there's a problem. It's new so I'm not expecting an issue but is there anything I need to look for? Is the RSA in the full size an issue like in some of the Shields?
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- Thread starter chele519
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Don't know. But i'd look for dings and scratches you don't want. I'm not sure if Buds has a restock fee.
You'd be surprised at the condition of some guns. My Tavor was a bit marred, my G43 had this brass rubbed on (luckily there was a trick online I found to take it off), and my Sig 1911 I am mostly certain came with a scratch I didnt catch.
You'd be surprised at the condition of some guns. My Tavor was a bit marred, my G43 had this brass rubbed on (luckily there was a trick online I found to take it off), and my Sig 1911 I am mostly certain came with a scratch I didnt catch.
bigwheelzip
Absent Comrade
After a cosmetic scan and function test, then you take it home and depend on the factory warranty. Just shoot the heck out of it before the warranty expires so that any flaws show up while you are covered. Buds is good, competitively priced with free shipping and no sales tax.
Rastoff
US Veteran
Buds has great prices, but has a terrible reputation for accepting returns.
The M&P is a very tough gun, but it can be scratched.
So, check the gun over with a fine tooth comb.
Take your time.
The RSA shouldn't be an issue, but you never know.
Field strip it and look it over inside and out.
Check the bore and chamber for burrs.
Check the breech face for dings.
Operate the sear disconnect lever to ensure it works properly.
Depress the striker block and push the striker out. Check it for damage.
Reassemble and do a function check.
I'm sure it will be fine.
The M&P is a very tough gun, but it can be scratched.
So, check the gun over with a fine tooth comb.
Take your time.
The RSA shouldn't be an issue, but you never know.
Field strip it and look it over inside and out.
Check the bore and chamber for burrs.
Check the breech face for dings.
Operate the sear disconnect lever to ensure it works properly.
Depress the striker block and push the striker out. Check it for damage.
Reassemble and do a function check.
I'm sure it will be fine.
Can you tell me how/where to depress the striker block?
Function check- is this just racking the slide and dry firing?
gwpercle
Member
They don't put that warning out for nothing. Look it over for anything you might obsess over. If it seems small and you're anal about little things don't accept it. It will just gnaw on you untill you can't stand it. Ask the dealer to inspect it right then and there for you and see what he finds on disassembly and reassembly. Function firing would be a most useful thing if possible.
Once you accept it , It's your problem after that.
Buyer Beware, Gary
Once you accept it , It's your problem after that.
Buyer Beware, Gary
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Rastoff
US Veteran
Yes I can. Look at this pic:
With the slide removed, press on part #10 (Striker Tang). It should not move forward.
Depress part #6 (Striker Block) with your finger, a pen, whatever. While holding it down, push part #10 (Striker Tang) forward. You should see the striker stick out of the firing pin hole in the breech face (of course you'll have to remove the barrel to see this).
Maybe a little more than that.
Once reassembled, rack the slide. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, press the trigger. If the sear disconnect is still down, nothing should happen. If the sear disconnect is up, after racking the slide, you should hear a click when the trigger is pressed.
Now lock the slide back by pressing up on the slide lock as you rack the slide. It should stay back. Let the slide go forward. Insert an EMPTY magazine. Rack the slide. It should stay back on its own.
If it has a thumb safety, engage the safety and press the trigger. It should not move (well, maybe 1/64").
If you need (or want) to know the names of parts:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-pistols/341115-m-p-parts-identification.html
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raylan007
Member
I would call your FFL in advance to notify him that you would like to unpack the shipment yourself, that way you can verify you were the only one to have handled it upon receipt. It also prevents the FFL from accidentally logging the firearm in to his books which at that point you own it.
Arik
Member
Call and ask you FFL. Most don't open packages until the buyer is there. I know that none of my LGSs will open anything unless you're there looking and not just because of accidentally logging it in but also if the seller had accessories that are not in the box the LGS can't be blamed for steeling
Thanks for all the replies. Rastoff, thank you very much for the detail. I got the serial # from Bud's and called S&W to get the manufacture date, I wanted to make sure it had all the updates, it was less than 1 month ago. I didn't realize their turnover was so high.
When I called the ffl last night to let him know it would should be there Monday, I thought he said something about opening it up. Should I just say, please don't log it in until I get there, I want to examine it first? Won't he have to open the package to get the packing slip or my info?
When I called the ffl last night to let him know it would should be there Monday, I thought he said something about opening it up. Should I just say, please don't log it in until I get there, I want to examine it first? Won't he have to open the package to get the packing slip or my info?
Sigsavvy
Member
I'm not sure if they can tell who the box is for when they get a pile of boxes in a delivery. It is probably addressed to them with no reference to you on the outside of the package. I could be wrong though. I would ask them about that and, if they can tell it's yours, see if they'll wait until you get there to open it.
Rastoff
US Veteran
Yes, tell him to wait until you get there. As has been stated, this is good for you and good for him. He doesn't need to "log" it in as soon as it arrives. He can wait for you.
The FFL I use for most of the guns I buy on the internet does this. He won't open it until I get there, even if it takes me a couple of days to get there.
He just told me it has to be logged in before the end of the business day. UPS delivers to him between 6:30-8pm and he's open until 9. He gave me a hard time the other day about wanting to come in that evening with it being hunting season and all. I just replied and said I would come in that night to examine it and if he was too busy to do the background check, I'd come back the next day.
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KSDeputy
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The FFL I use for making transfers from Bud's is also a gunsmith. I have never had a problem with the guns from Bud's. I am expecting a shotgun to come in to him early next week. After reading in the reviews that a customer got a gun that Remington did not pack well, and arrived damaged, I paid for the insurance on this one.
Just got my M&P .40 from Buds the other day and fired it two days ago. Absolutely great gun. Functional problems are sort of a "too bad, so sad" scenario, as you won't be able to detect most of them until you've fired the gun, and you can't fire the gun until you've done the transfer.
I would rack the slide before doing the transfer. Maybe buy some snap caps and put a few in a mag and try chambering them; your FFL store shouldn't feel too apprehensive about that. But that's only if you're really paranoid, because the M&P is a very high quality gun, and not prone to problems right off the bat.
Obsessing over scratches is also something I never do, but I guess that's mostly because I never spend Ed Brown or Dan Wesson 1911 money on a firearm. My M&P was one of the surplus guns, which is fine with me, because it means I don't worry about scratches. I also find that surplus guns have been assessed for good function and usually properly maintained. Less money, too. Some can be worn out, but mine didn't look to have that much use - a few years at most. Probably mostly carried and fired minimally.
I would rack the slide before doing the transfer. Maybe buy some snap caps and put a few in a mag and try chambering them; your FFL store shouldn't feel too apprehensive about that. But that's only if you're really paranoid, because the M&P is a very high quality gun, and not prone to problems right off the bat.
Obsessing over scratches is also something I never do, but I guess that's mostly because I never spend Ed Brown or Dan Wesson 1911 money on a firearm. My M&P was one of the surplus guns, which is fine with me, because it means I don't worry about scratches. I also find that surplus guns have been assessed for good function and usually properly maintained. Less money, too. Some can be worn out, but mine didn't look to have that much use - a few years at most. Probably mostly carried and fired minimally.
