Calipers

[R. G. Amos]

Thanks for all the responses. They are very informative.

 

[NYlakesider]

Starrett calipers, I have used them since I starter reloading in the mid 70s.

My son is a foreman/CNC programmer in a large machine shop and thee are a lot of Starrett tools in use. They build things for both the normal aircraft industry and also for military aircraft and the specks for that is ultra tough!

 

[Vortec MAX]

My experience with the "cheap" digital calipers is that I was always chasing the zero, and they "eat" batteries. When I would use the cheaper calipers, they would not return to zero when closed after a few measurements. I had to reset the zero constantly, which did not give me confidence that they were reading right. They would also eat batteries even when they were off and just sitting there. I would have to change out the battery several times a year.

I splurged on a set of Mitutoyo Absolute calipers which do not have either of the above problems. I have not had to reset the zero once since the first time out of the box, and I am still using the original battery several years later. Measurements with the Mitutoyos are very repeatable as well. With the cheap calipers, I could measure something three times and get three slightly different measurements.

I think you get what you pay for with these, like anything else.

Mike

 

[Arney]

how about reading a vernier scale?
no batterys or dials

 

[125JHP]

If one were to go with the cheap caliper, I would suggest getting a dial instead of digital. I have 2 dials, 2 cheap Midway and a Mitutoyo. The dials are very close to the Mitutoyo but the cheap digitals are .003 off. For some reloading operations it may be ok but for many that is a bit too much... slugging bores, bullet dims, case length or other dims are just a few I like a little more accuracy. I do use a mic when I can but the caliper is just so handy. I now only use the cheapies only for rough measurements, like 2x4's etc.

 

[Neumann]

What's a good website for quality machinist tools where you won't run into the chance of Chinese fakes ?

Make sure there are two "Rs" and two "Ts", and never buy a precision instrument (or watch) at a bus stop in Beijing

Amazon is pretty reliable, and easier to find than a real tool shop these days. I've used Starrett tools for years, but I wanted a digital readout, and Mitutoyo make a better one for the same price. For a durable transfer standard you want a true vernier, not a dial or digital readout. I don't do engineering for a living any more, so I'm into speed and comfort, with reasonable accuracy and durability.

Geared dial calipers do not like smokeless powder in the teeth. It might as well be bubble gum. Good things my kids are grown an my wife out of earshot when I reassembled it again. It doesn't get within 25' of my reloading bench any more.

 

[Frank46]

I only buy starret, brown & sharp or mitutoyo measuring instruments for my use as a home machinest. I still have a swedish 0-1" micrometer I bought over 40 years and still holds its zero. Frank

 

[ameridaddy]

My experience with the "cheap" digital calipers is that I was always chasing the zero, and they "eat" batteries. When I would use the cheaper calipers, they would not return to zero when closed after a few measurements. I had to reset the zero constantly, which did not give me confidence that they were reading right. They would also eat batteries even when they were off and just sitting there. I would have to change out the battery several times a year....
Mike

That's been my experience with cheap tools. I tried one Chinese dial caliper, 3 sets of Chinese digital calipers for my woodworking, being reluctant to load up my Starrett with sawdust. The dial never returned to the same zero, the digitals ate batteries, and one digital dropped the card with the pushbuttons on it deep down inside the case and one other digital simply quit.
All told, that was about one Starrett worth in the trash can.
BTW, way back when, Brown & Sharp were outstanding tools. I don't know about them today.

 

[DWalt]

I grew up using Vernier calipers back in the Bronze Age, and I guess they are OK if you are used to reading them, and are probably cheaper. But I'll take a dial caliper over either a vernier or a digital caliper. I have found that many do not know that a caliper can be used as a depth gauge, even though that should be obvious.

 

[Nevada Ed]

Working as an Ironworker for 33 years at a fast pace to make the company a profit.................

"We" got to where we "Eye Balled" a lot of stuff to where it was close enough and went on to the next phase.
If the bubble in the level was inside the lines......it was close enough. The sheet rock will fix the rest............!!

Now you want me to get down to just .001" on a stinking bullet !! ??
Lots of luck.

You guys go right ahead and have fun.

 

[Marvin Gardens]

I am a home machinist. Almost all of my measuring tools are Starrett or Mitutoyo that my grandfather left me or I bought new. When the Starrett digital calipers first came out they ate batteries and mine didn't last long. I switched to Mititoyo on just about everything with electronics since then. I think both companies now have price points where their tools are made in China. Lots of good used measuring tools on eBay, often significantly less if you don't mind a former owner's name engraved on them.

IMHO, you don't need new Starrett or Mititoyo for reloading. Personally, I would rather buy used American than new Horrible Freight. I have a set of Craftsman dial calipers that my dad bought for me for shop class in high school. They still work well and they, along with a Craftsman micrometer purchased at the same time as my calipers, are what stay in a drawer in my reloading bench.

Regards.

Bob

 

[mtgianni]

I use cheap import calibers and one expensive micrometer.

 

[bmcgilvray]

It's gratifying to use nice tools on the reloading bench.