Can I use Hoppes on a Nickel Finish?

[rxbrew]

Just bought a Model 586 no dash today at a local gun show. I want to give it a good cleaning. My question is will Hoppes #9 hurt the nicklel finish to clean the powder residue on the cylinder. This is my first nickel finish so I don't want to harm the finish. Thanks for the input.
Fred

 

[Gunhacker]

You have to be careful that whatever cleaner is used, read the list of ingredients and if it contains ammonia or the label says that it cleans copper fouling... stay clear of it.

Under the nickel plate is usually a layer of copper. Nickel does not adhere to steel very well so a layer of copper is applied, then the nickel.

Any breach present in the surface integrty of the nickel, and the cleaner will attack the copper underneath and cause the nickel to peel. Hoppes is also known to discolor Nickel as well.

 

[rxbrew]

Can I ue Hoppes on a Nickel Finish

Ok , so what do I use to clean the powder residue on the cylinders?

 

[dlbleak]

there are special wipes and cleaners made for nickel guns. i can't recall the names right off hand.i use flitz polish sparingly.

 

[Gunhacker]

Ok , so what do I use to clean the powder residue on the cylinders?

Well sir... among that stuff that I've seen most often in forum posts, both here and elsewhere is breakfree CLP, Ballistol, MPro7 to name a few.

Google can be your friend.. just search on "nickel gun cleaner" and Ballistol seems to be the one mentioned the most.

Brownells, MidwayUSA, Amazon.com, even eBay has it.

I haven't had any Nickeled guns, so I can't speak from experience with those products.

 

[JCS&W]

I have a few nickel plated Smiths, I use Prolix. It is safe for nickel finishes. It is a citrus based cleaner, and I find it works really well for me. You can find Prolix online, but my LGS has it in stock. Works on other finishes too.

 

[gunny4053]

M-Pro 7 is great stuff as it's easy on the finish, but is great at removing carbon, doesn't stink, and won't eat your hands. Scrub with a nylon brush, and it will remove about anything. If you want to shine it up, a little Flitz or Mothers mag polish works wonders.

As for the bore and cylinders, pretty much the same products mentioned already will get the job done.

 

[Smithhound]

I've used Hoppe's on nickle guns for years, it works as well as any but you do have to be very careful not to leave it in contact with the finish for long, take care to wipe every trace away, then let it sit for a half hour or so and re-wipe it. Sometimes it will leach out of nooks and cranny's and form a drop on the lowest hanging part. End up the cleaning session with a lite coat of oil.
I have one gun I missed a spot on and the next morning the droplet of Hoppes's that had hung on the bottom of the end of the barrel had formed a 'milky' spot. I was very put out to be polite about it. After a bit of polishing it came out well enough, probably no one else could spot it but I can.
As with anything, use it sparingly and wisely. As for fouling at the cylinder face I use Flitz, mainly because that is what I have on hand, just a bit, a alot of elbow grease and patience. Depending on how often I plan on shooting the gun, it doesn't make much sense expending the effort to remove it if your going to shoot it again in a week or so.
RD

 

[nipster]

Ballistol...

 

[rxbrew]

Thanks for he replies. I really apprieciate it.
Fred

 

[tom turner]

. . .

Any breach present in the surface integrty of the nickel, and the cleaner will attack the copper underneath and cause the nickel to peel. Hoppes is also known to discolor Nickel as well.

I ruined a LNIB Model 27-2 back in 1996 after cleaning it thoroughly after a pin match with Hoppes. I didn't know this stuff back then . . . but learned real FAST about the Ammonia that was in Hoppes back then. I assume it is still in it too!

Yes, in a couple of areas the gorgeous finish started to "cloud" a little.

Also, suddenly the nickel at the leading front edge of a couple of the cylinders flaked off a little.

I only shot that pristine revolver a couple or three times, and ruined its pristine condition thanks to Hoppes!

Clean nickel-plated guns carefully, and remove any harmful residues carefully and completely and you'll be ok as long as you avoid ammonia-containing cleaners.

I still love the beauty of a gorgeous nickel-plated S&W revolver, and still own some. They'll look great for generations with careful and proper care!

 

[chief38]

Well, all I can say is that both my Dad & I have used Hoppes on Nickel guns for 50+ years with no ill results - then one day ( a while back ) we read that the Hoppes will adversely effect the Nickel finish. My Dad passed last year and I did stop using it on Nickel, however I can honestly say that all the Nickel guns that were routinely cleaned with Hoppes are just fine and have had NO problems what-so-ever. I'm not saying the advise is wrong, just saying I have never witnessed any adverse effects of Hoppes on Nickel.

I just inherited all of his guns and one of them is a Nickel M36 (1st year production) and it has been cleaned with Hoppes a "zillion" times! This was his BUG and carried daily during his 30+ years of L/E and other than the usual carrying marks and light scratches, it still looks fine. Go figure!

Chief38

 

[roadhog96]

Well, all I can say is that both my Dad & I have used Hoppes on Nickel guns for 50+ years with no ill results - then one day ( a while back ) we read that the Hoppes will adversely effect the Nickel finish. My Dad passed last year and I did stop using it on Nickel, however I can honestly say that all the Nickel guns that were routinely cleaned with Hoppes are just fine and have had NO problems what-so-ever. I'm not saying the advise is wrong, just saying I have never witnessed any adverse effects of Hoppes on Nickel.

I just inherited all of his guns and one of them is a Nickel M36 (1st year production) and it has been cleaned with Hoppes a "zillion" times! This was his BUG and carried daily during his 30+ years of L/E and other than the usual carrying marks and light scratches, it still looks fine. Go figure!

Chief38

Hoppes makes several products for cleaning. Did the ones that you use specifically say it removes copper residue? I don't believe the issue is directed toward the nickel itself but rather with the copper layer beneath the nickel finish. Any breach in that nickel could easily allow the cleaners that remover copper fouling to attack the copper exposed subsequently causing the nickel to lift.

 

[TAROMAN]

With so many better cleaning products available today, why anyone would still use Hoppes is beyond me.
Maybe the bought a huge jug of it way back when..

 

[murphydog]

Any lead removal cloths also remove the firing residue. Do not use them on blued guns.

 

[ljbobdan]

I have a nickle Colt 1911 gov't. that I use Hoppe's Elite on. It does a great job, no oder, and is approved for nickle.

 

[rockquarry]

I've cleaned nickel S&Ws for years using Hoppe's #9. Wipe it off following the cleaning session and you'll have no problems and no "milky" spots. I suspect that all the damage blamed on Hoppe's was due to letting a firearm soak for an extended period, or using the solvent on a gun with flaking nickel where it migrated under the finish. For handguns fired with cast bullets only, Hoppe's remains as good a cleaner as can be found for general cleaning, including the bore and cylinder.

 

[Sportsterguy]

I only use it on the bore and cylinders to be safe and am careful doing that. No where else. Just a little bit in the wrong place can damage a nickels finish. I don't worry about the front of the cylinder either. I use Militec-1 lube conditioner on moving parts and wax the rest. JMO

 

[snake803]

IIRC, S&W did not use a copper plating under their nickle plating.... Therefore copper dissolving solvents should be no problem????
JIM.............

 

[2K7]

IIRC, S&W did not use a copper plating under their nickle plating.... Therefore copper dissolving solvents should be no problem????
JIM.............

I agree with Snake...you will find copper plate under nickle on Colts, but every S&W I've had only shows steel under the nickel in areas where wear/contact is normally found.